WHEN-I-WAS-A-BOY I used to plan the kind of home I would have when I grew up and had plenty of money. It was to have a gymnasium in the attic, a zoo for pets in the cellar, a museum of curiosities in the parlor, and a soda-water fountain in the dining-room. My mother used to say that was my Castle in Spain, and when I asked her what a Castle in Spain was, she said, "Any wonderful home-in your mind."
But Spain is a real place, a real country, and there are real castles there even now.
The map of Europe is like a puzzle-picture. If you turn it around or look at it sideways you will see a little old woman with a big head, a hump-back, and a long leg kicking a football into the sea. The head is called Spain, and the cap that Spain is wearing on the front of her head is called Portugal. Where the head joins France there is a collar of mountains called the Pyrenees.
At one time Spain not only looked like the head of Europe, she really was the head of Europe, for she owned a great part of Europe. Then there came a time just after Columbus discovered America when Spain was the head not only of Europe but of all the World. She then owned a great part of North America and all of South America, except Brazil. So she was the greatest country i. t. w. W.. Now, however, Spain doesn't even own all of Spain. On the map Spain seems to be rubbing her nose against the nose of Africa, as some savages rub noses when they meet. This nose of Spain is called Gibraltar, but Gibraltar does not belong to Spain; it belongs to England.
Gibraltar looks like a nose on the map, but if you were in a boat out on the Mediterranean Sea, Gibraltar would look like a long, high rock. Between it and Africa there is a narrow strip of water called the Strait of Gibraltar. It is only about thirteen miles across. It is about half as wide as the Strait of Dover, but powerful currents are pulling and pushing in and out from the Atlantic Ocean, and only recently has any one been able to swim across it. Inside of the Rock of Gibraltar, England has cut hallways and rooms and windows with long-distance guns in them, and placed her soldiers there to watch out over the water, and in time of war to fire on any one England does not want to pass through the water-gate.
Long years ago most all of the World that people knew was chiefly around the edge of the Mediterranean Sea. Sailors at that time thought it dangerous to go outside this gate, the Strait of Gibraltar, into the great ocean, and-so the story goes-they set up Pillars on each side of the Strait like gate-posts. They called them the Pillars of Hercules, and they put up a sign to warn sailors that it was dangerous to go beyond these Pillars. The sign said "Non Plus Ultra," which meant "Nothing More Beyond." It was supposed that not far outside the Pillars of Her-cules the ocean came to an edge where you would tumble off down, down, down to bottomless nothing. Columbus did not believe any such foolishness; he was not afraid. He sailed from Spain, starting from a place outside the Pillars of Hercules called Palos. He sailed on and on and on until, as you know, he came to America.
Just before Columbus sailed from Spain there were people living there called Moors, who had come across from Africa and made their home in Spain. The Moors were different from other people in Europe. They did not believe in Christ; they were not Christians. They believed in a man named Mohammed and a god whom they called Allah. The Moors built beautiful palaces, but they were different from Christian palaces. The Moorish princes lived in one of these palaces on a hill in the city of Granada, which is not far from Gibraltar. The palace in Granada was called the Alhambra.
The Christians in Spain didn't like the Moors, so they fought them, and at last the Christians drove the Moors out of Spain, drove them across the Strait of Gibraltar back into Africa whence they had come. The Spanish Queen received Columbus in the Alhambra and bade him good-by before he started out for the New World, but no one now lives there. It is still there on the hill at Granada and Spain keeps it as it once was, so that people may visit it. The walls, instead of being plastered or painted, are covered with colored tiles. The doorways, instead of being square, are shaped like a horseshoe, and its court-yards have splashing fountains and walled-in pools where the Moorish princesses used to bathe instead of in bathtubs.
A city in Spain called Seville has a great Cathedral, the second largest church in the World. It was built, of course, after the Moors had been driven out of Spain, as it is a Christian church, built where there once was a Moorish church. In this Cathedral are buried what are supposed to be the ashes of Columbus, though we think, as I told you before, that they are not his ashes at all, but the ashes of his son, and that his real ashes are in Haiti.
Moorish women used to wear veils over their faces. It was thought immodest for them to go out on the street with their faces uncovered. The Spanish women often wear veils too, but they wear them over their heads instead of hats, and some of the veils made of lace are very beautiful and very costly. They also wear very big and high combs in their hair and bright-colored silk shawls over their shoulders, and in summer carry beautiful fans, for it gets very warm in Seville-so warm that during the middle of the day no one goes out-of-doors who doesn't have to. In our country young children take naps during the day, but in Spain grown-ups take naps too, after their midday meal, only they call a nap by the very pretty name "siesta."
我小時候常常會想如果長大后我很有錢,我要住什么樣子的房子呢?我的房屋閣樓上要有健身房,地下室要有寵物住的動物園,客廳里要有裝滿各種珍奇的博物館,餐廳里要有一個蘇打水噴泉。我媽媽常說那是我的"西班牙城堡"[1],當我問她西班牙城堡是什么時,她說:"你幻想中的任何奇妙的房屋。"
但西班牙是個真實的地方,真實的國家,那里甚至現(xiàn)在還有真正的城堡。
歐洲地圖就像一幅智力拼圖。如果你把它轉過來或者從側面看過去,你會看到一個小老太太,頭大大的,背駝駝的,一條長長的腿正把一個足球踢倒海里去。她的頭叫做西班牙,西班牙頭上戴的帽子叫做葡萄牙。頭和法國相接的地方是一條山脈形成的衣領,叫做比利牛斯山脈。
西班牙不僅在地圖上看起來像歐洲的頭,而且曾經有一個時期真的是歐洲的首領,因為她擁有一大片歐洲的土地。就在哥倫布發(fā)現(xiàn)美洲之后一段時間,西班牙不僅是歐洲的首領,還是全世界的首領。西班牙當時擁有北美洲大部分土地和除巴西之外的所有南美洲土地。因此它是世界上最大的國家。然而現(xiàn)在西班牙甚至不擁有西班牙的全部領土。在地圖上,西班牙看起來正在和非洲蹭鼻子,就像有些人在見面時會互相蹭蹭鼻子那樣。西班牙的這個鼻子叫做直布羅陀,但直布羅陀不屬于西班牙;它屬于英國。
直布羅陀在地圖上看起來像個鼻子,但是當你坐船在地中海行駛的時候,直布羅陀看起來就像一塊又長又高的巖石。在它和非洲之間有一條狹窄的水域,叫做直布羅陀海峽。它大約只有13英里寬,寬度大約是多佛海峽的一半,但來自大西洋的強勁海流涌進涌出,波濤洶涌,直到最近才有人能游泳橫渡海峽。在直布羅陀山里,英國人開鑿了過道、房間和窗戶,窗口放置了遠程步槍,還安插士兵在那里監(jiān)視海面,在戰(zhàn)爭時期任何人未經英國人同意而經過水閘,英國士兵就要開槍射擊。
很多年以前,地中海地區(qū)的人認為地中海差不多就是整個世界。那時候的水手認為走出直布羅陀海峽這道大門進入大洋會很危險,而且--傳聞如此--他們在海峽兩岸豎起了柱子,就像門柱一樣。他們把那叫做"赫拉克勒斯之墩",他們還掛上告示牌警告水手如果越出石柱就很危險。告示牌上寫到"Non Plus Ultra",意思就是"禁止再往外行"。人們認為在赫拉克勒斯之墩之外不遠就到了大海的邊緣,人到這里會墜落下去,落啊落啊落入無底深淵。哥倫布根本不相信這種愚蠢的想法;他無所畏懼。他從西班牙出發(fā),從赫拉克勒斯之墩外一個叫做帕洛斯的地方起航。他在海上一直航行,沒有退縮,最后,如你所知,他到達了美洲。
就在哥倫布從西班牙出發(fā)前,摩爾人居住在西班牙,他們從對岸的非洲來到西班牙安家落戶。摩爾人和歐洲的其他人不同。他們不信仰基督,不是基督徒。他們信奉一個叫做穆罕默德的人和一個叫做安拉的神。摩爾人建造了美麗的宮殿,但是和基督徒的宮殿不一樣。摩爾王子就住在格拉納達城山上其中一個宮殿里,離直布羅陀不遠。格拉納達的宮殿叫做愛爾汗布拉宮。
西班牙的基督徒不喜歡摩爾人,于是和他們交戰(zhàn),最終基督徒把摩爾人趕出了西班牙,趕過了直布羅陀海峽,趕回到他們的老家,非洲。西班牙王后在愛爾汗布拉宮接見了哥倫布,并在他起航去尋找新大陸之前為他送行,但現(xiàn)在沒有人住在愛爾汗布拉宮。它仍然在格拉納達的山上,西班牙人現(xiàn)在還維持著宮殿的原貌,讓游客去參觀。那里的墻壁不是粉刷或油漆的,而是貼著彩色的磚塊。門不是方形的,而是馬蹄形的,庭院里有水花飛濺的噴泉和有圍墻的水池,過去摩爾公主就是在這里沐浴而不是在浴缸里。
西班牙有一個叫做塞維利亞的城市,那里有一個大教堂,是世界第二大教堂,當然是在摩爾人被趕出西班牙之后才建造的,因為這是一個基督教教堂,就建在原來是一個摩爾人教堂的地方。這個教堂里埋葬著據(jù)說是哥倫布的骨灰,不過,我們認為那根本不是哥倫布的骨灰,而是他兒子的骨灰。哥倫布的骨灰其實在海地,這些我在前面都介紹過。
過去摩爾婦女臉上常戴著面紗。如果她們不把臉遮住就外出上街,會被看做是有傷風化。西班牙女子現(xiàn)在也經常戴面紗,但是她們不是遮臉而是戴在頭上當帽子用,有些裝飾面紗非常漂亮,也很昂貴。她們還在頭發(fā)上別一把又大又高的梳子,肩上批著色彩鮮艷的絲綢披巾,夏天會拿著漂亮的扇子,因為塞維利亞到夏天就很熱了--非常熱,所以中午人們盡量不到室外去。在我國小孩子白天要小睡一會,但在西班牙成年人吃過午飯后也打個盹,只是他們給打盹起了個好聽的名字叫"午后小睡"。
[1] 英語中"castles in Spain"的字面意思是西班牙城堡,也有"空中樓閣"、"白日夢"的意思--譯者注。
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