YOU'VE heard of the "old woman who lived in a shoe, who had so many children she didn't know what to do." Well, there is a boot in which live not only many children but millions of children and millions of men and women too. It is called Italy. It is the largest boot in the World and yet it is not large enough to hold all its children, so a great many of them have come over to America. The very first one of them to come over was Christopher Columbus, over four hundred years ago. He sailed from Spain, but he was born in Italy and lived in a city at the top of the boot, called Genoa. A part of his house is still standing in Genoa, and there is a statue of him just outside the railroad station. Ships still sail from Genoa to America, but they know where they are going now and Columbus didn't.
On the other side of the boot top is another city. It is not near the water, nor by the water, nor on the water, but in the water. It is built on many little islands, and the streets are water with bridges across them. This city is called Venice. The water streets are called canals, and the main street, which would be a broad avenue if it were paved, is called the Grand Canal. Instead of automobiles or carriages, the people have to use boats. These boats are painted black and in the center there is a little cabin like a closed automobile. In the very front there is a queer thing with teeth which looks something like a big comb standing on end. These boats are called gondolas, and a man called a gondolier stands back of the little cabin and rows the gondola with one long oar. There are no "stop" and "go" signs at the canal crossings, so the gondoliers, as they come to a crossing, call out a funny "ooh," and if there is a gondolier coming from the cross canal he calls back so that they will not run into each other. There are no honking horns, no rumbling wheels-Venice is almost silent except for singing and music.
Long ago where Venice now is there were many little islands but no city. Some people, called Veneti, were troubled by a wild tribe from the north. So they moved to these islands to get away from these annoying tribes. The Veneti cut posts made of cedar wood, which does not easily rot, and drove them down into the water, and on top of these posts they built their houses. The Veneti lived chiefly on fish, which they caught in large numbers, because all they had to do was to drop a line or net out of the front door. In fact, they caught so many fish they could not eat them all. So they gathered salt by drying seawater and salted the fish so that they would keep.
As the Veneti lived on the water they had to be good sailors, and they were. So they sailed to all corners of the Mediterranean Sea, selling their salt fish and selling salt too, and bringing back in payment silk gowns and rugs and jewels. Then people from all over Europe came to Venice to buy these things which the Veneti had brought back in exchange for this fish and salt, and Venice became the greatest shopping-place, the greatest market, in Europe. So the Venetians, as the Veneti came to be called, kept on getting richer and richer. They built beautiful palaces along the canals, and as they believed a certain saint had brought good luck to them and their city, they built a beautiful church to him. This saint was St. Mark. They found his bones and buried them in this church underneath the altar. St. Mark's Church is different-looking from any of the churches I have told you about so far. It has five domes, one on each side and one big dome in the center, but these domes are not like those of St. Paul's or the Capitol-they are shaped like an onion.
Pictures are usually painted with paint, and you have probably never seen colored pictures made without paint. But the inside of St. Mark's, and the outside too, is covered with hundreds of pictures, not made with paint but out of bits of colored stone and gold and colored glass. Such pictures are called mosaics. They will not fade nor peel off, nor wash off, as painted pictures might do.
As you might have a dog for a pet, St. Mark was supposed to have had a lion for a companion, so on top of a column, out in front of his church, the Venetians put a bronze statue of a lion with wings. Over the door of the church there are four horses. They are not live horses, yet they have traveled far. They were made about the time of Christ, out of bronze, and they have been carried away by one ruler and another from one place to another, and finally back again to Venice.
The largest piece of land in Venice is a paved square in front of St. Mark's. In this square there are flocks of pigeons, and they are so tame they will alight on your hand or shoulder to be fed. People have pictures taken of themselves with pigeons on their head and shoulders and at their feet. Once upon a time Venice was saved from an enemy by a message brought by a carrier-pigeon, and ever since then Venetians treat pigeons as sacred, and they would arrest and punish any one who harmed a pigeon. Did you know that a pigeon discovered America? Yes, that's a fact, for in Italian "Columbus" means "pigeon." So his real name is Christopher Pigeon.
Venice is now only a city, but it used to be like a little country all by itself. It made its own money and it had its own ruler, who was called a Doge (dozhe), which means Duke. A Doge ruled like a president and lived in a palace like a king, and punished people who had done wrong, like a judge. Just across the water street from the Doge's palace was the prison, and connecting his palace with the prison was a covered bridge. When a man was sent to prison by the Doge he crossed over this bridge, sighing and groaning, so it came to be called the "Bridge of Sighs."
Theaters are sometimes named "The Rialto," but The Rialto is not a theater. It is a bridge in Venice over the Grand Canal. It has shops along its sides. Venice was the shopping-place of Europe, and the Rialto was the department store of Venice, where every kind of thing was sold. There is a play written by William Shakspere, the English author, called "The Merchant of Venice." The story is about a man who had a shop on the Rialto.
The Venetians made their living in the first place out of two commonplace things right at hand-fish and salt. That was the start of their fortune. There was also a great deal of another commonplace thing right at hand too-this was sand. Sand seems to have very little value, but the Venetians found out that they could make glass out of sand by melting it in a furnace with something else. They found out too that they could blow this melted glass as one blows soap-bubbles, and by blowing the glass in this way into different shapes they made wonderfully beautiful bottles, vases, beads, and drinking- glasses. The glass-blowers became as famous as any artist who could make beautiful paintings or beautiful music, and the glass-blowers made fortunes besides, for people everywhere sought their work and paid high prices for it. They were the most important people in Venice. A specially fine glass-blower was as important as the Doge himself-one glass-blower was made a Doge-and some of their daughters even married princes.
Venice is now no longer a country by itself. It is now only one city in Italy, but people go from all over the World to see St. Mark's and the Doge's palace, to bathe at its wonderful beach nearby called the Lido, to ride in gondolas on its canals, and listen to musicians who on warm moonlight nights sing and play on stringed instruments. Venice is one of the places in the World where every girl thinks she would like to spend her honeymoon when she is married.
An American girl once sent a postal card home: "Here I am in Venice. It is wonderfully beautiful-the golden palaces, the gorgeous sunsets, the enchanting music. I am sitting in a gondola on the Grand Canal and drinking it all in!" We speak of a person "thirsting" for knowledge or beauty, but one would have to be very thirsty to drink in the Grand Canal.
The "Boot" lies in the Mediterranean Sea, but the part of the sea that borders Venice is called The Adriatic. Venice is so beautiful it is known as the "Queen of the Adriatic." Fame and fortune made from fish and salt and ships and sand!
你聽說過這樣一首童謠吧,"有位婦人住在鞋子里,孩子太多了,不知怎么辦"。告訴你,還真有這樣一只靴子,那里不僅住著很多孩子,而且住著無數(shù)大人和小孩。這只靴子叫意大利,是世界上最大的靴子,然而還是裝不下它所有的孩子,所以他們當(dāng)中很多人就來到了美洲。他們中最先過來的是克里斯托弗 · 哥倫布,那是四百多年前的事。他從西班牙起航,但他生于意大利,住在靴子頂部一個(gè)叫做熱那亞的城市。他的部分故居還在熱那亞,現(xiàn)在依然完好。在熱那亞火車站外面還豎立著他的雕像?,F(xiàn)在仍然有輪船從熱那亞航行到美洲大陸,這些輪船都有確定的航線,而哥倫布當(dāng)時(shí)卻不知道自己航行的前方是何處。
在靴子頂部的另一側(cè)還有一個(gè)城市。它不在水的附近,不在水邊,不在水上,而是在水里。整個(gè)城市建在很多小島上,它的街道就是水道,有很多小橋橫跨在上面。這個(gè)城市叫做"威尼斯"。這些水道叫做運(yùn)河,其中最大的水道叫做"大運(yùn)河",這條水道如果鋪成路面,就會是條寬敞的林蔭大道。人們出行不是開汽車或坐馬車,而是靠坐船。這些船被漆成黑色,中間有個(gè)小船艙,像封閉的小汽車。船頭有個(gè)有著許多齒的奇怪東西,看起來就像個(gè)大梳子豎在那里。這種船叫做"鳳尾船",鳳尾船船夫站在小船艙后面,用一支長長的船槳?jiǎng)潉哟?。在運(yùn)河交叉點(diǎn)沒有"停"或"行"的交通標(biāo)志,所以當(dāng)船到達(dá)一個(gè)交叉點(diǎn)時(shí),船夫就會"嗬"地喊一聲,喊聲挺滑稽的。如果此時(shí)有船夫從橫貫的運(yùn)河過來,他也會"嗬"地回應(yīng)一聲。這樣他們的船就不會相撞了。那里沒有嘀嘀的喇叭聲,也沒有隆隆的車輪聲--威尼斯除了歌聲和音樂之外幾乎是寧靜無聲的。
很久以前,在現(xiàn)在威尼斯的地方有很多小島,但沒有城市。一個(gè)叫做威尼西亞的民族,受到北方一個(gè)野蠻部落的不斷侵?jǐn)_,于是來到這些小島上,避開這些討厭的部落。威尼西亞人把不易腐爛的雪松木削成木樁,把木樁敲進(jìn)水底,然后在木樁上建起房屋。威尼西亞人的主食是魚,他們能捕到大量的魚,因?yàn)樗麄冎灰獜姆课萸伴T向水中丟下一根釣魚線或者撒下一張漁網(wǎng),就能逮住魚。甚至,他們捕的魚多得吃不完。他們就蒸發(fā)海水獲得鹽,用鹽腌魚,魚就能保存下去了。
由于威尼西亞人住在水上,他們就必須擅長海上航行,實(shí)際上也確實(shí)如此。他們航行到地中海的每個(gè)角落,把咸魚和鹽賣掉,換回絲綢外袍、小毛毯和珠寶。然后歐洲各地的人都到威尼斯購買威尼西亞人用魚和鹽換來的這些好東西,威尼斯因此就發(fā)展為歐洲最大的商場和最大的市場。威尼西亞人也被稱為威尼斯人了,他們變得越來越富有。他們在運(yùn)河沿岸建造了一些美麗的宮殿。威尼斯人認(rèn)為有個(gè)圣人給他們和他們的城市帶來了好運(yùn)氣,于是就建了一個(gè)教堂紀(jì)念他。這位圣人叫圣馬可。他們找到了他的遺骨,并把遺骨埋在這個(gè)教堂里的祭壇下。圣馬可教堂的外觀和我以前介紹過的任何一個(gè)教堂都不一樣。它有五座圓頂,四邊各有一座,中間是一座大圓頂,但是這些圓頂和圣保羅大教堂或國會大廈的圓頂不一樣--它們的形狀像洋蔥頭。
畫通常是用顏料畫的,你也許從未見過不是用顏料畫的彩色畫。但是在圣馬可教堂里面和外面布滿了許許多多畫,都不是用顏料畫的,而是用彩色石頭、黃金和彩色玻璃一小片一小片鑲嵌而成的。這種畫叫做"馬賽克"。不會像顏料畫那樣褪色或脫落,也不會被水洗掉。
就像你可能會養(yǎng)條小狗做寵物那樣,據(jù)推斷圣馬可也養(yǎng)了個(gè)獅子做伴,于是在圣馬可教堂前的圓柱上威尼斯人放了一頭長翅膀的獅子青銅雕像。在教堂門的上方有四匹馬。它們不是活馬,但卻走過了很遠(yuǎn)的路。這四匹馬大約是在耶穌在世時(shí)用青銅制作的,被一個(gè)又一個(gè)統(tǒng)治者從一個(gè)地方帶到另一個(gè)地方,最終又回到了威尼斯。
威尼斯最大的一塊空地是圣馬可教堂前一個(gè)鋪了磚石的廣場。廣場上有成群的鴿子,它們非常溫順,總是飛落到你的手上或肩上等你喂食。人們把鴿子在他們頭上、肩上和腳邊的情景拍攝下來。很久以前,一只信鴿送來了重要的情報(bào),才使威尼斯免受敵人的襲擊,保全下來,從此以后威尼斯人把鴿子奉為神圣之物,任何人傷害鴿子,都會被拘捕并受到懲罰。你知道"一只鴿子發(fā)現(xiàn)了美洲"這一說法嗎?是的,那是真的,因?yàn)樵谝獯罄Z中,"哥倫布"就是"鴿子"的意思。所以他真正的名字是克里斯托弗 · 鴿子。
威尼斯現(xiàn)在只是一個(gè)城市,但過去就像一個(gè)獨(dú)立的小國家,自己造貨幣,也有自己的統(tǒng)治者,叫做總督,就是君主的意思。總督像總統(tǒng)一樣統(tǒng)治國家,像國王一樣住在宮殿里,像法官一樣懲罰做壞事的人??偠礁乃缹γ婢褪潜O(jiān)獄,連接總督府和監(jiān)獄的是一座有篷的橋。被總督判刑送到監(jiān)獄去的犯人跨過這座橋,總是一邊嘆息一邊呻吟,因此這座橋后來就被叫做"嘆息橋"。
城市的劇院區(qū)有時(shí)被叫做"里阿爾托",但"里阿爾托"并不是劇院,而是威尼斯大運(yùn)河上的一座橋,兩邊有商店。如果說威尼斯是歐洲的商場,那么里阿爾托則是威尼斯的百貨商店,里面有各種各樣的商品。英國作家莎士比亞寫過一部戲劇叫做《威尼斯商人》,故事講的就是一個(gè)在里阿爾托開店的人。
威尼斯人最初用身邊兩樣很普通的東西謀生--魚和鹽,從此開始發(fā)跡。他們周圍還有一樣很普通的東西--那就是大量的沙子。沙子似乎很不值錢,但威尼斯人發(fā)現(xiàn)把沙子和另一種東西一起放到火爐里熔化就能制成玻璃。他們還發(fā)現(xiàn)可以像吹肥皂泡那樣去吹熔化的玻璃。把玻璃吹成各種不同的形狀,他們就制造出非常美麗的瓶子、花瓶、珠子和酒杯。吹玻璃工匠變得和那些能畫出美麗的畫或演奏出美妙音樂的藝術(shù)家們一樣,成了名人,而且還發(fā)了財(cái),因?yàn)楦鞯氐娜硕紝で笏麄兊淖髌凡⒊龈邇r(jià)購買。他們是威尼斯最重要的人。一位出類拔萃的吹玻璃工匠和總督本人一樣重要--有位吹玻璃工匠還當(dāng)過總督--有些工匠的女兒甚至嫁給了王子。
威尼斯現(xiàn)在不再是一個(gè)獨(dú)立的國家,只是意大利的一個(gè)城市,但世界各地的人都去參觀圣馬可大教堂和總督的宮殿,到附近一個(gè)風(fēng)光美麗叫做"麗都"的海灘浴場去享受一下,乘坐鳳尾船在運(yùn)河上游玩,在月色溶溶、暖洋洋的夜晚聆聽音樂家一邊唱歌一邊彈琴。威尼斯是世界上每個(gè)女孩希望將來能去度蜜月的地方之一。
一個(gè)美國女孩曾經(jīng)給家里寄了一張明信片,上面寫道:"我現(xiàn)在到了威尼斯。這里太美了--金色的宮殿、絢麗的落日、迷人的音樂。我正坐在大運(yùn)河上的鳳尾船上,陶醉于這里的一切!"我們常說一個(gè)人"渴望"獲得知識或者美麗,但是說一個(gè)人非常想陶醉于大運(yùn)河,也只能用"渴望"一詞。
"靴子"位于地中海,但威尼斯周圍那部分海叫做亞得里亞海。威尼斯非常美麗,被稱為"亞得里亞海女王"。她的名聲和財(cái)富來源于魚、鹽、船和沙子!