INDIA is divided into states like the United States and many of these states have separate rulers called rajahs. Many of the rajahs, however, are more interested in showing off and in having a good time than they are in ruling. They love jewels, such as diamonds and pearls, and they collect them as you might collect marbles, though one of their diamonds may be worth a million times what one of your precious marbles is worth. They own some of the largest and finest jewels that have ever been found. We think of diamond and pearl necklaces as something that only women wear, but when the rajahs appear before their subjects or ride in processions, as they love to do, they dress themselves up with their wonderful gems, some of them as big as walnuts, and wear collars of pearls, rubies, sapphires, and emeralds. In such processions a rajah rides on an elephant, which is dressed up too. The rajah sits on top of the elephant under a canopy that is so high in the air he has to use a stepladder to climb up.
Elephants are considered sacred in India, and even though there are many wild ones, it is against the law to shoot one. So men hunt them, catch them, and tame them without shooting them. Hundreds of men form a long line around the place where there are elephants and beat drums and blow horns to frighten them. The elephants move away from the noise and, unknowingly, toward a pen that is left open to catch them. In this way they are driven by the terrible racket into the pen, which is then closed. After they are caught they must be tamed. This is not an easy job, for some elephants are very dangerous and can easily stamp a man to death. Once tamed, however, an elephant can be used like a camel in Arabia, a horse in Europe, or an automobile, a tractor, or a piece of machinery in our country. An elephant will wind his trunk around a log and load it on a train or ship, much as a machine called a derrick would do.
One of the things a rajah likes best to do is to hunt tigers. The tiger-a huge, orange-colored cat with black stripes-is a fearful creature. He lives in the jungles of India, and when he is hungry he raids villages and kills domestic animals and people. A rajah going forth to a tiger hunt takes good care that he is in no danger. He and a party of friends, with hundreds of servants, go out into the jungle and climb to a safe place in a tree where a platform has been built. The servants then go through the jungle beating pans and drums and anything that will make a noise, keeping up a terrific din to scare the tiger along toward the rajah and his party of friends. When he comes within range they fire upon him from above. They then take his skin home to cover the floors or walls of the rajah's palace.
There are over a hundred different religions in India but, as I told you in the last chapter, most of the people are Hindus. A Hindu believes his spirit comes back into this World in the shape of an animal or of another person. That is one reason why useful or good animals are treated well. A Hindu thinks that if he is good he will, when he dies, suddenly, in a twinkling, be born again-rich or in the shape of a good animal; if he has been bad, he will, when he returns, be poor or in the shape of a bad animal. When I look into the kindly eyes of my dog who wags his tail, puts out his paw, and whines "m-m-m," I can almost believe as the Hindu does that some human being, perhaps a rajah, is in his dog body.
On the west side of India is a big city called Bombay, but Bombay does not look much different from any other large city in Europe. The buildings look much like the buildings in London or New York.
But if you travel north from Bombay for about two days you will come to a town with two buildings like none other in the World. This town is called Agra. One building is a tomb, the other is a mosque. The tomb was built by a Mohammedan prince for one of his four wives who was his favorite. It is called the Taj Mahal, and some think it the most beautiful building in the World. I had come half-way round the World to see this sight and had traveled days in such terrific heat that a sunstroke was as much to be feared as a stroke of lightning. I saw the Taj by the full moon and was so busy looking that I stepped into a pool of water up to my knees, and I had hardly clambered out when I stepped off a platform and sprained my ankle. But it was worth it. And yet to me the most beautiful building in the World is not the Taj. It is the Pearl Mosque, which is also at Agra. I don't know what the buildings in Heaven look like, but I don't believe they could be more beautiful than the Pearl Mosque.
On the east side of the country is the sacred river of India; it is called the Ganges. It has several mouths and at one of these mouths is Calcutta. Calcutta is in India but most of the mouths of the Ganges are in Pakistan.
Farther up the sacred river is the sacred city of the Hindus. It is called Benares. No one but a Mohammedan may go to the sacred city of Mecca, but any one may go to Benares. Benares is built on the banks of the river, and covering the banks are long stone steps leading down into the river. Hindus come from all over India to bathe in the Ganges at Benares, not to wash away dirt but to wash away sins. They go in about waist-deep and, filling a bowl with the sacred water, pour it over their heads. Especially do they come to the Ganges when they think they are about to die. Good Hindus are not afraid to die. In fact, if they are miserably poor and unhappy they are glad to die, for if their sins are washed away they expect, by dying, they will immediately be changed into the body of a happier creature.
The Hindus do not bury those who die; they burn their bodies on bonfires. Those who die in Benares are burned on the steps that lead down to the river, and so many are burned there that men make a regular business of selling wood for these funeral fires. The richer a man is, the bigger fire he can have when he dies; but often a man is so poor he has not left even enough money to pay for the few sticks of wood necessary to burn his body.
There are so many people in India that often there is not enough food to go around, and though the poor people live on little but a few handfuls of rice a day, thousands upon thousands starve to death for lack of even this little food. The rajahs and well-to-do people look fat and well-fed, but the poor people are usually as thin as skeletons, and as they often wear hardly any clothes, you can see every bone in their lean bodies.
From rajahs with their millions' worth of jewels to the poor wretch who dies without two sticks of wood to burn his body, that is the "opposite-feet" land.
South of India is an island called Ceylon, where men wear skirts and combs in their hair. Much of our tea comes from there. Near Ceylon are the greatest pearl fisheries i. t. w. W.-greater even than those of the Persian Gulf. Many of the rajahs' famous pearls have been found there, and even I have a black pearl that came from there. It is supposed to bring good luck whether you wear it or whether you don't. I don't.
The Indians are famous magicians, and at Colombo in Ceylon I saw some of their tricks. An Indian placed his wife in a basket, covered it with a shawl, stabbed through it in every direction, and then uncovered her alive and smiling. I saw him put a seed in a flower-pot and while you watched it it grew to a plant. How do they do such things? You can only guess just as every one else does.
像美國一樣,印度也劃分為不同的州,很多州有各自的統(tǒng)治者--叫做"邦主"。然而,許多邦主感興趣的不是治理國家,而是炫耀自己和盡情享受。他們喜歡珠寶,比如鉆石和珍珠。就像你有可能收集玻璃彈子一樣,他們收集珠寶,不過,他收集的其中一個(gè)鉆石也許比你珍愛的玻璃彈子貴一百萬倍。他們擁有迄今為止所發(fā)現(xiàn)的最大最好的珠寶。我們認(rèn)為鉆石和珍珠項(xiàng)鏈只有女士才佩戴。但是,當(dāng)這些邦主出現(xiàn)在他們的臣民面前,或是參加列隊(duì)行進(jìn)的時(shí)候--他們就喜歡有這樣的機(jī)會(huì),他們穿上盛裝,佩戴華麗無比的寶石。有的寶石有核桃那么大,衣領(lǐng)上綴有珍珠、紅寶石、藍(lán)寶石、綠寶石。在隊(duì)伍中,邦主騎在一頭也盛裝打扮的大象上,華蓋為其遮擋太陽。因?yàn)榇笙筇吡?,邦主不得不用一個(gè)梯子才能爬上去。
在印度,大象被認(rèn)為是神圣的。盡管有很多野生大象,但是射殺大象是犯法的。于是,人們就捕獵大象,而不是射殺,捕獲后馴化它們。獵象時(shí),數(shù)百人把有大象的地方圍起來,然后,敲鼓吹號來嚇唬它們。為了避開噪聲,大象不知不覺走向一個(gè)為捕捉它們而有意敞開的圍欄。就這樣,大象在喧鬧聲中被趕進(jìn)了圍欄,這時(shí)有人馬上就把圍欄關(guān)上。捕獲大象后一定要馴化它們。馴象是一件很難的事,因?yàn)橛行┐笙蠓浅NkU(xiǎn),能輕易將人踩死。然而,一旦馴化,大象就能像阿拉伯的駱駝、歐洲的馬、美國的汽車、拖拉機(jī),或一臺(tái)機(jī)器一樣被人使用。大象會(huì)用它的鼻子纏繞著圓木,像轉(zhuǎn)臂起重機(jī)一樣,把圓木放到火車或者輪船上。
獵虎是印度邦主最喜歡做的事情之一。老虎--一種橘黃色的,長著黑色條紋的大型貓科動(dòng)物--是非??膳碌膭?dòng)物。老虎生活在印度叢林中,饑餓時(shí),會(huì)襲擊村莊,咬死家畜甚至人。邦主前去獵虎時(shí)非常小心,要確保自己絕對安全。邦主和他的一幫朋友,帶著幾百個(gè)仆人,離開住處,進(jìn)入?yún)擦?,爬到樹上一個(gè)安全的地方,那里早已搭建好一個(gè)平臺(tái)。接著仆人們深入?yún)擦郑门钃艄囊约扒么蛉魏慰梢园l(fā)出噪音的東西,持續(xù)發(fā)出可怕的嘈雜聲,嚇得老虎朝著國王和他的朋友方向跑去。當(dāng)老虎進(jìn)入射程,國王和他的朋友就從平臺(tái)上向它射擊,并把獵殺后的老虎帶回去裝飾宮殿的地板或者墻面。
在印度有一百多種以上不同的宗教,但是,在上一章我就介紹過,大部分印度人都信仰印度教。印度教徒相信人死后靈魂會(huì)回到這個(gè)世界,變成一種動(dòng)物或者另一個(gè)人。這就是為什么有用的或有益的動(dòng)物會(huì)受到善待。印度教徒認(rèn)為,如果他是個(gè)好人,那么在他死后的一瞬間,就會(huì)投胎成為一個(gè)富人,或者成為了一只有益的動(dòng)物;如果他是個(gè)壞人,轉(zhuǎn)世時(shí)他就會(huì)變成窮人,或者成為有害的動(dòng)物。當(dāng)我的狗搖著尾巴,伸出爪子,嗚嗚嗚地叫,我看著它友好的眼神時(shí),我?guī)缀蹙拖裼《冉掏侥菢?,相信某個(gè)人也許是個(gè)邦主就在這狗的身體里。
在印度西海岸有個(gè)大城市叫孟買,孟買看上去和歐洲任何一個(gè)大城市沒有多大區(qū)別,城市建筑很像倫敦、紐約的建筑。
但是,如果你從孟買往北走兩天,就會(huì)來到一個(gè)城鎮(zhèn),那兒有兩棟建筑物,和世界上其他任何建筑物都不一樣。這個(gè)小鎮(zhèn)叫阿格拉。其中一座建筑物是一座陵墓,另一座是清真寺。陵墓是一位伊斯蘭教王子給他四位妻子中最喜愛的一位建造的,叫泰姬陵,有些人認(rèn)為這是世界上最美的建筑。我曾環(huán)繞地球半圈專程來看這景觀。在旅行的那幾天里,天氣非常炎熱,人們害怕中暑就像害怕被閃電擊中一樣。我在滿月的銀光之下看見了泰姬陵。我那么專注地看著,不知不覺竟步入一個(gè)水池,水沒到膝蓋,我剛爬出來,從一個(gè)平臺(tái)上走下來,又扭傷了腳踝。但受傷也是值得的。然而,對我來說,世界上最美的建筑不是泰姬陵,而是珍珠清真寺,它也在阿格拉鎮(zhèn)。我不知道天堂里的建筑是什么樣的,但我相信,就算是天堂里的建筑也不會(huì)比珍珠清真寺更美麗。
印度的圣河,在這個(gè)國家的東邊,叫做恒河。它有好幾個(gè)河口,加爾各答在其中一個(gè)河口。加爾各答在印度,但大部分恒河河口在巴基斯坦。
在圣河上游有印度教徒的圣城--貝拿勒斯。圣城麥加,唯有伊斯蘭教徒可以去,但任何人都可以去貝拿勒斯。貝拿勒斯建在恒河河畔,河岸鋪著長長的石階,石階向下延伸到恒河。印度教徒從印度各地來到貝拿勒斯,在恒河里沐浴,不是洗去污垢而是洗去罪惡。他們走到齊腰深的地方,舀起一碗圣水,澆到自己的頭上。當(dāng)他們認(rèn)為自己快要死的時(shí)候,就會(huì)特地來到恒河。虔誠的印度教徒并不怕死。事實(shí)上,如果生活貧窮,痛苦不堪,他們寧愿死去,因?yàn)槿绻麄兊淖飷阂坏┫慈?,他們期望通過死亡立刻轉(zhuǎn)世成為一個(gè)比以前幸福的人。
印度教徒不埋葬死去的人,而是將尸體放在篝火上焚燒。在貝拿勒斯,死去的人會(huì)被放在通向恒河的石階上焚燒。焚燒的尸體太多了,就有人做起了常規(guī)生意,專門出售火葬用的木柴。一個(gè)人越富有,他死后焚燒的火堆就越大。但是常有人窮得連火葬用的木頭都買不起。
印度人口太多,常常沒有足夠的食物分配給每個(gè)人。盡管窮人一天只需要幾把米就可以活下去,但是成千上萬的人還是因?yàn)槿鄙僖稽c(diǎn)點(diǎn)糧食就餓死了。邦主和富人都長得肥頭大耳,營養(yǎng)充足;而窮人通常是骨瘦如柴。因?yàn)楦F人經(jīng)常不穿什么衣服,你能看見他們瘦削身體上的根根骨頭。
從擁有價(jià)值百萬珠寶的邦主,到窮得連火葬自己的兩根木柴都沒有的可憐人,這就是"對拓之地"。
印度之南有個(gè)叫錫蘭的島,島上的男人穿裙子,頭發(fā)上插著梳子。我們喝的茶很多產(chǎn)自那里,錫蘭附近有世界上最大的珍珠漁業(yè)場--甚至比波斯灣的還要大。印度邦主的許多著名的珍珠都產(chǎn)自那里。就連我也有一顆黑珍珠是產(chǎn)自那里。據(jù)說珍珠會(huì)帶來好運(yùn),無論你戴不戴它。我不戴珍珠。
印度人是著名的魔術(shù)師。在錫蘭的科倫坡,我見過他們玩的一些戲法。一位印度人把他的妻子放在一個(gè)籃子里,蓋上披肩,然后用劍從各個(gè)方向刺穿這個(gè)籃子,然后掀開披肩,他的妻子毫發(fā)無損,還向大家微笑呢。我還看到他放了一粒種子在花盆里,當(dāng)你看著的時(shí)候,它已經(jīng)長成一株植物了。他們是如何做到的呢?你只能像別人一樣去猜測吧。