WHEN I came home from Japan I sent picture post-cards to all the Japanese school-boys who had given me their names. I had chosen cards that I thought would give them some idea of the size and importance of our country. One card had a picture of the Capitol at Washington, another Niagara Falls, another sky-scrapers in New York. In reply each boy wrote me a letter on thin rice paper and drew or painted or inclosed a picture of some scene or common sight in Japan.
Three of the pictures were of the same thing-a beautiful mountain with a snow-white top. It is the sacred mountain of Japan, called Fujiyama or just Fuji. It is really not a mountain at all but a burnt-out volcano, the top of which is covered with snow. You can see it from afar, and the Japanese love it so they put pictures of it on every conceivable thing they want to ornament-on fans, boxes, trays, umbrellas, lanterns, screens. No movie queen or famous beauty has ever had as many pictures made of her as have been made of Fuji.
There were two pictures of a huge bronze statue of Buddha seated out-of-doors in a grove of trees. It is so large that half a dozen people can sit on its thumbs. The eyes are of solid gold and more than a yard long, and in its forehead is a large ball of solid silver. They call it the Diabutsu. We might call it an idol, but the Japanese make statues of Buddha as we put up monuments to famous men and saints, and their statues of Buddha are to remind them that he was wise and good. His life was an example which even Christians might imitate.
Here are some of the other pictures which the Japanese boys sent me:
A street scene in Tokyo
Tokyo is the capital and largest city of Japan and one of the largest cities i. t. w. W. The old capital has exactly the same letters as Tokyo but arranged this way: Kyoto. If you say Tokyo twice you say Kyoto too-TO/KYOTO/KYO. Both Tokyo and Kyoto and all other Japanese cities look quite different from our large cities. There are no sky-scrapers, few buildings are more than two stories high, and most of them are built of bamboo. The reason for this is because the sea-serpent is still shaking himself almost every day, and they have so many earthquakes in these islands that tall houses would be shaken down. When an earthquake does come-and slight ones come almost every day and terrific ones every once in a while-the houses can easily be built up again. The chief damage done by the earthquakes, however, is the result of fires started when lights and stoves are upset. Then thousands of houses may be destroyed.
There are a few big buildings that are built to withstand earthquakes. They are built on underground platforms of concrete instead of on the solid rock of the earth. This keeps them from being torn from their foundations when an earthquake shakes the ground; just as a big loose rock lying on the ground might be shaken but would not be broken apart.
A picture of a Japanese house
Japanese houses make fine bonfires, for they are not only made entirely of wood, but the windows are made of paper and the floors are covered with straw mats. The mats are not made to fit the floor, but the floors are made to fit the mats, which are all of the same size. The rooms are built to fit six mats, ten mats, and so on. In order to keep the mats clean, the Japanese take off their shoes whenever they enter their houses, and walk about the house in their stocking feet. Their stockings are like mittens with a place for the toe, and they would no more think of stepping on the mats with their shoes on than you would of getting into bed with your shoes on.
There are no chairs in a Japanese house, for the Japanese sit on the floor. For us it is very uncomfortable to sit on the floor for any length of time, but the Japanese prefer it, and I have seen them squatting on the floor in railway stations, although there were benches to sit on right alongside. I don't know why, but I've often seen American girls sit on chairs with their feet up under them as if they were sitting on the floor. But I've never seen boys do it. Perhaps girls are part Japanese. The tables in a Japanese house have legs only a few inches high; they are really only trays like the bed trays we use when one is sick, and meals are served by placing such a tray in front of each person as he squats on his heels on the floor. There are no beds either; they sleep on the mats and cover themselves with a padded kimono for a comforter and use a hard wooden block for a pillow.
The Japanese are like elephants. In what way? I'll give you three guesses. They bathe frequently. The Chinese, who seldom bathe, say the Japanese must be very dirty to need so many baths. But what seems to us peculiar, all the family, one after another, bathe in the same tub without changing the water. The tub is shaped like a sawed-off barrel in which there is room to sit but not to lie down. The water is piping hot "to open the pores." After the bather has parboiled himself, he then climbs out and scrubs himself.
A picture of two Japanese carrying a big bucket on a pole which rests on their shoulders
In the tub-I couldn't see them but I knew-there are live fish. The Japanese eat little meat, because they have few animals such as cows, sheep, or pigs from which meat is made, and because good Buddhists do not believe in eating meat anyway. But fish they do not call meat, and they catch and eat more fish than any other people in the World, even more than the people in Norway. As Japan is all islands, no one lives far from the sea, and fresh fish may be had all the time. Peddlers carry them alive in tubs of water so that the fish will be absolutely fresh.
A picture of fields covered with water in which is growing rice
Rice is the chief and almost the only vegetable in Japan, and tea is the chief drink. Tea the Japanese drink without either sugar or cream. There are tea-houses and tea-gardens where waitresses called Geisha girls serve tea to customers and then entertain them by dancing and playing on long-necked musical instruments something like a banjo.
Another letter was ornamented with high wooden gateways called Torii, which you see everywhere in Japan, standing sometimes alone, sometimes in line. Torii means a bird rest. They are sacred gateways under which one passes to a temple or shrine.
Still another letter was illustrated with pictures of large stone lanterns such as you often see around Japanese temples and in their gardens. These lanterns give very little light, but they are much more ornamental than our lanterns, and the Japanese think more of beauty than they do of use. They even have a festival of lanterns-the paper kind that we use at garden parties.
Another letter contained a picture of three monkeys carved in wood in the greatest of all Japanese temples at Nikko. One monkey had his paws over his ears, the next over his mouth, and the third over his eyes, meaning: "Hear no evil, speak no evil, see no evil."
A picture of two very fat men squatting on the ground and facing each other in the center of a huge building around which are sitting thousands of people watching
The two fat men are wrestlers. Wrestling is a national sport in Japan, as bull-fighting is a national sport in Spain and football is a national sport in the United States. There are two kinds of wrestling. One kind is done by giants weighing several hundred pounds, who wrestle before crowds such as gather to watch baseball or football games in this country. The wrestlers squat, facing each other like huge bullfrogs, and spend most of their time in this position, each watching for a chance to get a grip on the other. The game seems to an American simply one of watching and waiting, for once one gets "a hold" on the other the battle is usually over. Another kind of wrestling is called Jiu-jitsu. It is a trick wrestling, and a little chap, if he knows how, can throw a much larger and stronger person by catching his arm, hand, or leg and twisting it with a quick movement into certain positions that make it impossible for him to resist. I have seen in Japan whole schools lined up two and two, practising the various "throws" with lightning-like movements.
Wrestling is an old Japanese sport. The Japanese, however, copied new sports from other countries along with all the other things they copied. They copied baseball, and crowds at baseball games in Japan are as big as baseball crowds in the United States.
The last letter inclosed a photograph of the Emperor. Many countries have now changed from emperors to presidents but Japan, which has been quick to change in most things, I don't believe ever will change to a president. The same family has been ruling in Japan for two thousand years. Even after being beaten in World War II, the Japanese were allowed by the other countries to keep their Emperor. Before this war the Japanese believed the Emperor was sacred as if he were a god. They still treat him with great respect but are no longer supposed to worship him.
我從日本回國(guó)后,就給那些想和我通信的日本男孩都寄了風(fēng)景明信片。我特地挑選了一些明信片,這些明信片我認(rèn)為可以讓他們對(duì)美國(guó)的國(guó)土面積和國(guó)際地位有所了解。一張明信片上的圖畫(huà)是華盛頓的國(guó)會(huì)大廈,另一張是尼亞加拉瀑布,還有一張是紐約的摩天大樓。每個(gè)男孩都用薄薄的米紙給我寫(xiě)了回信,有的用鉛筆畫(huà)了一幅畫(huà),有的用顏料畫(huà)了一幅畫(huà),有的隨信附上一張圖片,上面畫(huà)的都是日本風(fēng)景或常見(jiàn)的景點(diǎn)。
有三張畫(huà)是同一景物--一座美麗的山,山頂白雪皚皚,那是日本的圣山--叫做"富士山",其實(shí),它不是一座真正的山,而是一座死火山,山頂覆蓋著白雪。人們遠(yuǎn)遠(yuǎn)地就能看見(jiàn)它。日本人非常喜歡富士山,他們將富士山的照片貼在他們想要裝飾的任何一件東西上--扇子上、盒子上、托盤上、傘上、燈籠上、屏風(fēng)上。沒(méi)有哪位影后或名媛佳麗能像富士山那樣讓人拍了那么多的圖片。
有兩張畫(huà)畫(huà)的是一個(gè)巨大的青銅佛像,坐落在樹(shù)叢中。青銅佛像非常大,僅兩只大拇指就可以坐得下六個(gè)人。眼睛是用純金做的,有1碼多長(zhǎng),前額上有一個(gè)巨大的純銀制的球。他們把銅像稱為"Diabutsu",我們也許稱其為偶像。日本人就像我們?yōu)槊嘶蚴ト素Q立紀(jì)念碑一樣制作佛像,是為了提醒自己,佛陀是充滿智慧的、和善的,他的一生是個(gè)榜樣,即使是基督徒也可以效仿。
以下是日本男孩寄給我的其他一些圖畫(huà):
東京街景
東京(Tokyo)是日本的首都,是日本最大的城市,也是全世界最大的城市之一。日本過(guò)去的首都是京都(Kyoto),它的英文名字和東京的英文名字是由相同的字母組成的,只不過(guò)順序不同。如果你說(shuō)Tokyo兩遍,你就說(shuō)了Kyoto--TO/KYOTO/KYO。東京、京都,還有其他日本城市看起來(lái)與美國(guó)的大城市截然不同。日本城市沒(méi)有摩天大樓,很少有建筑物在兩層以上,大多數(shù)房屋都是用竹子建的,這是因?yàn)槟菞l海蛇怪幾乎每天會(huì)扭動(dòng)它的身體,這些島嶼頻繁發(fā)生地震,高樓都會(huì)被震塌。如果地震真的發(fā)生了--小地震幾乎每天都發(fā)生,大地震每隔一段時(shí)間發(fā)生--房子也很容易重建起來(lái)。然而,地震造成的主要災(zāi)害是由于燈和爐子打翻而引發(fā)的火災(zāi)。發(fā)生火災(zāi)時(shí),成千上萬(wàn)棟房子都會(huì)被燒毀。
日本也建了一些能夠抗震的大型建筑物,它們建在地下的混凝土平臺(tái)上,而不是直接建在地面堅(jiān)硬的巖石上,這樣會(huì)防止地震發(fā)生時(shí)建筑物在地基處斷裂,就像一塊躺在地上的松動(dòng)的大石頭一樣,地震時(shí)它只會(huì)晃動(dòng),而不會(huì)裂開(kāi)。
日本民居
日本的房屋適合用作篝火的材料,因?yàn)樗鼈儾粌H全是用木頭做的,而且窗戶是用紙做的,地板上還鋪著用草編織的墊子。墊子不是按照地板的大小制作的,而是地板的規(guī)格要適合墊子的大小,而且所有墊子的大小是一致。房間的面積均按照六塊草席的大小或十塊草席的大小而設(shè)計(jì)的。為了保持草席清潔,日本人每次進(jìn)屋前都會(huì)脫鞋,穿著襪子在室內(nèi)行走;他們的襪子像連指手套,四腳趾相連與腳拇指分開(kāi)。他們從不會(huì)想到穿著鞋子走在草墊上,正如你不會(huì)想到穿著鞋子上床一樣。
日本人的房?jī)?nèi)沒(méi)有椅子,因?yàn)槿毡救讼囟?。我們要是坐在地板上,哪怕是再短的時(shí)間,也會(huì)覺(jué)得非常不舒服。但是,日本人更喜歡席地而坐。我曾經(jīng)看見(jiàn)他們蹲坐在火車站的地板上,盡管旁邊就有長(zhǎng)凳可以坐。也不知為什么,我常??匆?jiàn)美國(guó)女孩盤腿坐在椅子上,好像坐在地板上一樣;但我從未看見(jiàn)男孩子這樣坐。也許,美國(guó)女孩子有部分日本血統(tǒng)吧。日本人家里的桌子桌腿只有幾英寸高。它們其實(shí)就像我們?cè)谟腥松〉臅r(shí)候使用的床上托盤。一日三餐就是放在這樣的一個(gè)桌子上,擺在跪坐者的前面。日本人室內(nèi)也沒(méi)有床。他們就睡在席子上,把襯里的和服當(dāng)被子蓋在身上,用一塊硬木頭當(dāng)枕頭。
日本人像大象。在哪個(gè)方面像呢?我讓你猜三次。日本人勤洗澡。很少洗澡的中國(guó)人說(shuō),日本人一定很臟,才需要這么經(jīng)常洗澡。但是,在我們看來(lái),很奇怪的一點(diǎn)是,一家人洗澡用一個(gè)浴盆,一個(gè)人洗完另一個(gè)洗,中間不換水。澡盆的形狀像個(gè)被鋸了一截的大木桶,人在里面只能坐著不能躺下。洗澡水很燙,可以"使毛孔張開(kāi)"。洗澡的人在滾熱的水里泡上一段時(shí)間,然后爬出來(lái),用力擦洗身體。
兩個(gè)日本人用一根桿子抬著一個(gè)大水桶
畫(huà)中那只桶里--雖然我看不見(jiàn),但是我知道--有活魚(yú)。日本人很少吃肉,因?yàn)槿毡緡?guó)內(nèi)像牛、羊、豬這樣可以食用的動(dòng)物很少;再加上,虔誠(chéng)的佛教徒無(wú)論如何都不贊成吃肉。但是,他們認(rèn)為魚(yú)不是肉,所以,他們捕捉的和吃掉的魚(yú),是全世界最多的,甚至比挪威人還要多。因?yàn)槿毡臼菎u國(guó),每個(gè)人離海都很近,所以始終都可以吃到新鮮的魚(yú)。魚(yú)販將活魚(yú)放在裝滿水的桶里,所以魚(yú)是極其新鮮的。
種著水稻的水田
水稻是日本主要的、也幾乎是唯一的農(nóng)作物。茶是主要的飲料。日本人喝茶不放糖,也不放牛奶。日本有很多茶館或茶室,里面有叫"藝妓"的女服務(wù)員為顧客上茶,還跳舞、彈琴、彈奏樂(lè)器娛樂(lè)觀眾。她們彈的樂(lè)器有點(diǎn)像琴頸細(xì)長(zhǎng)的班卓琴。
另一封信上的裝飾畫(huà)是一排高高的木牌坊,叫做"鳥(niǎo)居"。鳥(niǎo)居在日本隨處可見(jiàn),有時(shí)只有孤零零一個(gè),有時(shí)則是一排。鳥(niǎo)居的意思就是"鳥(niǎo)休息的地方"。這些牌坊是通向寺廟和神殿的大門,所以是神圣的。
還有一封信上的插圖畫(huà)的是巨大的石燈籠,你常常在日本寺廟附近、或寺院內(nèi)見(jiàn)到這種石燈籠。這些石燈籠發(fā)出的光很暗,但比我們的燈籠更具裝飾性。日本人更看重石燈籠的美,而不是它們的用途。日本人甚至還有一個(gè)燈籠節(jié)--就是我們?cè)谟螆@會(huì)上使用的那種紙質(zhì)燈籠。
另一封信里是一幅畫(huà),畫(huà)的是三只用木頭雕刻的猴子。這三只猴子在日光市最大的神社里。一只猴子用爪子捂住耳朵,另一只猴子用爪子捂著嘴巴,第三只猴子捂著眼睛,意思是"決不聽(tīng)邪惡的東西,決不說(shuō)邪惡的東西,決不看邪惡的東西"。
在一個(gè)大型建筑物的中央,兩個(gè)很胖的男人面對(duì)面蹲坐在地上,周圍坐著成千上萬(wàn)觀眾
這兩個(gè)胖男人是摔跤運(yùn)動(dòng)員。摔跤是日本的全民運(yùn)動(dòng),就像斗牛是西班牙的全民運(yùn)動(dòng)、橄欖球是美國(guó)的全民運(yùn)動(dòng)一樣。摔跤分兩種,一種是參加摔跤的人都是體重達(dá)幾百磅的高大魁梧的男人,觀看比賽的人很多,就像美國(guó)人在觀看棒球或橄欖球比賽一樣。兩名摔跤手像巨大的牛蛙一樣面對(duì)面蹲伏著,大部分時(shí)間都保持這種姿勢(shì),各自都在尋找機(jī)會(huì)抓住對(duì)方。在美國(guó)人看來(lái),這項(xiàng)運(yùn)動(dòng),只不過(guò)是"觀察和等待",因?yàn)橐坏┮环阶プ×硪环剑荣愐簿徒Y(jié)束了。另一種摔跤被稱為"柔道",它是一項(xiàng)技巧性很強(qiáng)的摔跤運(yùn)動(dòng),就是一個(gè)瘦小的人,如果他知道其中的訣竅--通過(guò)抓住對(duì)手的胳膊、手、或腿,快速扭動(dòng)到某個(gè)位置,使對(duì)手無(wú)法抵抗,即使對(duì)手比自己強(qiáng)壯高達(dá),也會(huì)被摔倒在地。我在日本很多學(xué)校,看到全校學(xué)生排成隊(duì),兩兩一組練習(xí)各種摔倒對(duì)手的技巧,動(dòng)作快如閃電。
摔跤是日本一項(xiàng)古老的運(yùn)動(dòng)。但是,日本人在向其他國(guó)家學(xué)習(xí)時(shí),也學(xué)到了一些新的運(yùn)動(dòng)項(xiàng)目。他們學(xué)會(huì)了打棒球。日本喜歡棒球運(yùn)動(dòng)的人一點(diǎn)也不少于美國(guó)人。
最后一封信里附上的是一張日本天皇的照片。許多國(guó)家已經(jīng)將"皇帝"轉(zhuǎn)變?yōu)?quot;總統(tǒng)",但是日本,盡管在很多方面變化很快,我卻認(rèn)為,不會(huì)將"皇帝"轉(zhuǎn)變?yōu)?quot;總統(tǒng)"。同一個(gè)天皇家族統(tǒng)治日本已有兩千年之久了。甚至在第二次世界大戰(zhàn)中戰(zhàn)敗之后,日本得到其他國(guó)家的許可,保留了天皇。在這場(chǎng)戰(zhàn)爭(zhēng)之前,日本人認(rèn)為天皇是神圣的,把他當(dāng)做神。現(xiàn)在,日本人仍然非常尊敬天皇,不過(guò)不再崇拜他了。