總分:____
69 EASTERN EARLY CHRISTIANS早期東方基督教建筑
ARE you a good detective? Can you tell what part of the country a person comes from, just by hearing him talk? At least you can tell the difference between a Southerner and a New Englander by the sound of their voices and the way they pronounce their words.
Men of one part of a country talk differently from men of another part. Men from different countries are different in other ways. They wear different kinds of clothes, they have different kinds of laws they eat different kinds of food, they paint different kinds of pictures, they build different kinds of buildings.
When the Roman emperor Constantine became a Christian, the Christians in Rome came out of the catacombs and built basilicas for churches. But subject to the Roman emperor there were other Christians who lived a long way from Rome. The Roman Empire reached eastward into Asia. Many people in this eastern part of the empire were Christians, too. Under Constantine they began to build churches just as the Christians in Rome did. But, belonging to a different part of the world, the eastern Christians built their churches in their own way. They didn’t care much for basilicas.
The kind of buildings the eastern Christians built was called Byzantine. That is because Byzantium was the largest city in the eastern part of the Roman Empire. The city is still a large and important city, but you won’t find Byzantium on the map. Byzantium changed its name. Constantine went to live in Byzantium and made it his capital instead of Rome. When he did this he named the city Constantinople or City of Constantine. But you won’t find Constantinople on the modern map, either, for now it is called Istanbul. The old name, Byzantine, however, stuck to the architecture that began to be used there.
There was one very important difference between this Byzantine architecture and the basilican architecture. A Byzantine church always had some kind of dome on it. In some churches the dome was small; in some it was covered with a square roof so you could see the dome only from below, on the inside; in many churches there were several domes.
The Pantheon in Rome has a dome, but the Pantheon is not like the Byzantine style of building. The Pantheon’s dome is made of concrete. The domes of Byzantine churches were usually made of bricks or tiles. The Pantheon dome rests on a circular wall. The Byzantine domes cover a square space.
The plan of most Byzantine churches looks like this: +. This kind of cross with all the arms equal is called a Greek cross. The central dome was generally right over the square in the center of the cross.
All these Byzantine buildings with domes were quite small until the Emperor Justinian came to rule. Justinian had his architects build the best and finest and biggest building ever built in the Byzantine style. We call it St. Sophia or Santa Sofia, but Sofia was not the name of any saint. Sofia means wisdom and the real name of Justinian’s church is Holy Wisdom. As most Americans call it St. Sophia, that is what we shall call it here.
See if you can understand how St. Sophia is built. In the middle is a huge dome. This dome rests on the top of four big arches that are shaped like croquet wickets. Each arch stands on one side of a square.
The bottom of the dome rests on top of each wicket or arch.
No.69-1 INTERIOR OF ST. SOPHIA(圣索菲亞教堂內部)
Courtesy of The University Prints
The spaces between the tops of the arches below the dome are not empty. They are filled in with brick so the bottom of the dome is resting on something all the way round. These spaces between the tops of the arches look like curved triangles pointed downward. The curved triangles are called pendentives. I hope you can remember that word pendentive. It is the use of pendentives that makes Byzantine architecture very different from other kinds. You won’t find any pendentives in the Pantheon in Rome, for instance.
In this picture you can see three of the arches under the dome and two of the pendentives between the arches.
As the dome of St. Sophia is made of bricks, the whole dome isn’t held together like a saucer or like the concrete Pantheon dome. This means that the dome pushes down on the walls that hold it up and also pushes outward or sideways on the walls. You know how a ladder leaning against the wall of a room will slide out at the bottom when a heavy man climbs the ladder unless the bottom is braced against something on the floor. Well, the dome pushes out in all directions just as the ladder does in one direction, and so there must be something to brace the walls to keep the dome from pushing them over.
The arches resting on the ground held the downward push of the dome. The architects of St. Sophia took care of the outward push very cleverly. On the outside of two of the arches, opposite each other, they built half-domes on walls reaching to the ground which braced the two arches just like book-ends pushing toward the middle of the building. They were props to hold the arches from falling outward.
Against the legs of the other two arches they built big piles of stone and brick and these piles kept the arches in place just like book-ends, too. These piles were called buttresses.
And then—after all this care and work—the dome of St. Sophia fell down! It collapsed a few years after it was finished. But we can’t blame the builders. An earthquake shook the bricks out of place and down came the dome. The builders couldn’t prevent an earthquake.
When they put the dome up again they made an improvement. All around the bottom of the new dome little windows were made—forty windows altogether. This let in such a band of light that the dome seems to be resting on light when you look up at it from inside, or as if it were hanging from the sky a few feet above the top of the four big arches.
The inside of St. Sophia has been called the most magnificent interior in the world. Along each side of the nave run aisles which have second stories or galleries. The galleries are supported by many columns of different colored marbles, some red, some green, some gray or black. Here’s a strange fact. There are 107 columns inside the building and the dome is just 107 feet across from one side to the other.
No.69-2 ST. SOPHIA(圣索菲亞教堂)
Courtesy of The University Prints
The lower walls are all covered with slabs of beautiful marble, in even more colors than the columns. Higher up on the walls are mosaic pictures with the colored pieces of glass and marble set in gold.
Almost a thousand years after the church of St. Sophia was built, Constantinople was captured by the Turks. The Turks are Mohammedans instead of Christians. They worship in mosques instead of churches. The leader of the Turks rode his horse right into St. Sophia and ordered the Christian church turned into a Mohammedan mosque. The beautiful Christian mosaics were covered with plaster and whitewash except for a few of the angels. And ever since then no one has been allowed to enter St. Sophia without first taking off his shoes. That is the rule for all mosques. No shoes may tread on Mohammed’s holy ground. You take off your shoes or you don’t get in.
From the outside St. Sophia looks big, but some people think it not very beautiful. Notice in the picture the great buttresses that stick up on each side of the arch to brace the push of the dome.
What about those towers? I wish you could forget they are there, because they look so important in the picture that you are apt not to look closely at the building itself. The towers were not part of the church, but were put on by the Turks when the church became a mosque.
But I don’t want you to believe that St. Sophia was the only great Byzantine building or that all Byzantine buildings were in Constantinople. The Byzantine style of architecture spread wherever the religion of the Greek Christian Church spread. The churches of Russia, for instance, were almost all built in the Byzantine style because the Russians became members of the Greek Church instead of members of the Roman Church. Churches in the Byzantine style are still being built in different parts of the world.
Just as famous as St. Sophia is another Byzantine church built in Venice, hundreds of years after St. Sophia. Venice was a seaport republic. The city belonged to no country. It was independent. Fleets of ships from Venice sailed away to the East and brought back the beautiful silks and spices of Asia. Venice became rich and powerful. Her people learned to love the bright colors of the goods from the East and they put so much lovely color on their Byzantine church that it shone like a beautiful jewel in the sun. They called their church St. Mark’s because it was built over the spot where Saint Mark was supposed to lie buried.
St. Mark’s has five domes—a big dome in the center and four smaller domes around it. The domes were not high enough to be seen well on the outside and so the Venetians made a much higher dome over each of the five domes. So each dome is double. The church is covered inside and out with brilliant mosaics and slabs of precious marbles called alabaster brought from far and near. The four bronze horses over the main door are almost as famous as the church itself. It is probably the most colorful building in the world.
No.69-3 ST. MARK’S, VENICE(威尼斯圣馬可教堂)
Courtesy of The University Prints
And now one more score card. Here are the new names in this chapter. Each counts 20. Can you spell them correctly and make as good a score as in the last chapter? Try it—out loud, remember.
Byzantine □
Greek cross □
pendentive □
buttress □
mosque □
Score: _____
你是個好偵探嗎?你能不能只聽他講話就能知道他來自你們國家的哪個地區(qū)的呢?至少可以通過聽他們講話的聲音和發(fā)音方式分辨出誰是南方人,誰是新英格蘭人。
一個國家不同地方的人說話方式會不同。不同國家的人在其他方面也有不同。他們穿著不同的服裝,遵守不同的法律,吃不同的食物,畫不同的畫,造不同的房子。
當羅馬皇帝君士坦丁成為基督徒時,羅馬的基督徒們就走出地下墓穴,并且為教會建造長方形教堂。但是受羅馬帝國管轄的還有另外一批基督徒,他們的住地離羅馬很遠。羅馬帝國在東方的領地擴張到了亞洲。帝國東部的許多人都是基督徒。在君士坦丁的統(tǒng)治下,他們也開始像羅馬基督徒那樣建造教堂。但由于地理位置的不同,東部的基督徒以他們自己的方式建造教堂。他們不太在意長方形教堂。
羅馬帝國東部的基督徒們建造的教堂叫做“拜占庭風格”。因為拜占庭是羅馬帝國在東部的最大城市。雖然這座城市今天仍然是一座重要的大城,但在地圖上卻找不到。拜占庭已經改名換姓了。君士坦丁搬到拜占庭居住,用拜占庭代替羅馬作他的首都。就在這時他將這座城市命名為君士坦丁堡。但你在現(xiàn)在的地圖上也找不到君士坦丁堡,因為它現(xiàn)在叫做伊斯坦布爾。它曾經的名字,拜占庭,開始作為一種建筑風格流傳開來。
拜占庭建筑和長方形教堂建筑有一明顯不同。拜占庭風格的教堂幾乎都有圓頂。某些教堂里的圓頂比較小;有些教堂的圓頂被方頂覆蓋,所以你只有從圓頂下方,教堂里面才能觀察到它;某些教堂里面甚至有好幾個圓頂。
羅馬的萬神殿有一個圓頂,但是萬神殿的風格卻不同于拜占庭風格的建筑。萬神殿的屋頂是水泥做的,安放在一座環(huán)形墻壁上;而拜占庭教堂的圓頂所用的建筑材料通常是磚塊或瓷瓦,覆蓋在一個方形空間上。
大多數(shù)拜占庭風格教堂的平面圖看起來是這樣的:+。這種四邊等長的十字形叫做“希臘十字形”。中間的圓頂正好就在中心廣場的正上方,即十字形中心。
所有這些帶圓頂?shù)陌菡纪ソㄖ计?,直到東羅馬帝國皇帝查士丁尼即位。查士丁尼和他的建筑師們建造了最大的拜占庭式建筑。我們稱作“圣索菲亞大教堂”,但是索菲亞并不是某位圣徒的名字。“索菲亞”意為智慧,查士丁尼教堂的真正名字叫做“圣智大教堂”。我們就像大多數(shù)美國人一樣,稱它為“圣索菲亞教堂”。
我們來看看是否能明白圣索菲亞教堂是如何建造的。教堂中間是一個大圓頂。這個大圓頂被放置在四座大型拱門上,這些拱門看起來就像槌球的球門。而每一扇拱門又建在一個方形體的單邊之上。
圓頂?shù)牡撞孔湓陂城蜷T或拱門的頂端。
拱門頂部與圓頂之間的空隙并不是空白。他們之間由磚塊填充,所以圓頂?shù)牡撞恳恢迸c拱門連接。這些拱門與天頂之間的空隙看起來像是頭朝下的曲線三角形。這些曲線三角形叫做“三角穹窿”。希望你能記住這個詞。正是曲線三角形的使用使得拜占庭建筑與眾不同。譬如,在羅馬斗獸場就找不到這樣的曲線三角形。
在這幅圖中可以看到圓頂下方有三座拱門,每兩座拱門之間都有曲線三角形。
由于圣索菲亞教堂的圓頂是以磚塊為材料,整個圓頂看起來并不像托盤或萬神殿的水泥圓頂。這意味著圓頂向墻壁施力,墻壁又托起圓頂,而且圓頂也對下邊四面的墻壁外推下壓。眾所周知,當我們把一架梯子靠在房間的墻上,讓一個體重大的人上去時,梯腿就會打滑,除非在地板上用什么東西把梯腿固定住。梯腿只向一方施力,而圓頂卻向四面施力,所以圓頂所依附的墻壁必須要有什么東西將它箍起來,以免圓頂將它們壓倒。
安在地上的拱門頂住了圓頂?shù)膲毫?。圣索菲亞教堂的建筑師很聰明地考慮到了圓頂?shù)耐馐┝?。所以他們就在兩個對視的拱門外圍,環(huán)形的落地墻上,建造了兩個半圓頂,將兩座拱門牢牢地箍住,類似書夾,牢牢地抵住建筑物的中心。它們支撐著整個拱門,防止拱門向外坍塌。他們還用大批石頭和磚塊堆在兩座拱門的底部,以防拱門移位,也就像用書夾抵著一樣。這些石碓叫做“拱壁”。
然后呢,盡管建筑師花了這么多的功夫和心思,圣索菲亞大教堂還是倒了!它在竣工幾年后就倒塌了!但是我們不能怪罪建筑師。因為一場地震將磚塊從建筑物里震了出來,圓頂緊接著就塌了。建筑師無論如何也阻止不了一場地震呀。
當他們再次架起圓頂時,就開始采取預防措施。圓頂?shù)牡撞刻砑恿艘恍┬〈皯?mdash;—總共有四十個。這能使陽光從窗戶里照進來。當你從里面向上看的時候,圓頂就像是架在光線上,或像是懸在離四座大拱門支撐的天頂好幾英尺高的空中一樣。
圣索菲亞教堂的內部裝飾被稱為世界上最奢華的。中殿每一側都有兩層長廊或畫廊。畫廊是由色彩斑斕的大理石柱支撐而成,有紅的、綠的、橘黃的,還有灰色的和黑色的。這座教堂有這樣一個令人稱奇的事實,那就是它內部總共有一百零七根柱子,而圓頂?shù)闹睆秸靡彩?07英尺,橫跨整個教堂。
墻壁底部貼滿了漂亮的大理石瓷磚,顏色甚至比柱子還要豐富。稍微高一點的地方是嵌花式組合圖案,由五彩玻璃和大理石在金子上鑲嵌而成。
在圣索菲亞教堂建成大約一千多年后,君士坦丁堡被土耳其人占領。土耳其人是穆斯林,不信基督教。他們禮拜的場所不是教堂,而是清真寺。土耳其的首領騎著馬沖進圣索菲亞大教堂,下令將教堂改為穆斯林的清真寺。除了幾處天使的圖案之外,所有美麗的鑲嵌圖都被石灰粉刷成白色。從那之后,任何人進圣索菲亞教堂都必須脫鞋。穆罕默德神圣的土地不容許任何一雙鞋子的玷污。如不脫鞋,就不給進。
圣索菲亞教堂的外觀看起來很大,但有的人認為這不夠美觀。注意一下圖上的拱門兩側那支撐拱頂?shù)姆霰凇?nbsp;
那些塔有什么作用?真希望你能忘了它們的存在,因為塔在圖上看起來太醒目,使人不再仔細地關注建筑物本身了。這些塔原不是教堂的組成部分,而是教堂變?yōu)榍逭嫠潞笸炼淙思由先サ摹?nbsp;
我還是不希望把圣索菲亞教堂當成是唯一偉大的拜占庭風格的建筑,也并不是說拜占庭建筑就只在君士坦丁堡。其實,哪里有希臘的基督教會,哪里就有拜占庭風格的建筑。以俄羅斯的教堂為例,它們幾乎都是拜占庭風格的,因為俄羅斯教會后來歸屬于希臘教會,而沒有歸屬羅馬教會。拜占庭風格的教堂如今在世界各地依然還在建造。
譬如建造在威尼斯的另一座拜占庭式教堂,晚于圣索菲亞教堂好幾百年,卻同樣有名。威尼斯是一個港口共和國。這座城市不屬于任何國家。它是獨立的。艦隊從威尼斯出發(fā)駛向東方,并從亞洲帶回美麗的絲綢和香料。威尼斯開始變得強大而富有。她的人民開始學會欣賞這些從東方帶回來的物品的絢麗色彩,并把這些色彩運用于拜占庭式教堂的裝飾上,使拜占庭式教堂就像是閃耀在太陽下的寶石。他們稱他們的教堂為圣馬可教堂,因為它建造的地點被認為是圣馬可的埋葬地。
圣馬可教堂共有五座圓頂——中間是個大圓頂,四座小圓頂環(huán)繞其中。因為圓頂不夠高,從外邊根本就看不到,所以威尼斯人又在五座圓頂上加了一個大圓頂。所以每座圓頂就成了雙層。教堂被覆蓋在里面,外面是光鮮亮麗的鑲嵌圖案和從遠近各地買來的名貴大理石。主門上的四匹青銅馬和這座教堂一樣有名。圣馬可教堂可能是世界上色彩最豐富的建筑物了。
這里還有一張得分卡。上面記載了這一章出現(xiàn)的新名稱。每個名稱20分。你能正確地將他們拼寫出來嗎?看看得分是不是和上一章的一樣高。試試吧,記住,要大聲說出來哦。
拜占庭風格 □
希臘十字形 □
三角穹窿 □
扶壁 □
清真寺 □