Jason Wu：時裝的分界正在打破

01 Jason Wu：時裝的分界正在打破

Jason Wu是最炙手可熱的華裔時裝設(shè)計師之一，米歇爾·奧巴馬就曾身著他設(shè)計的禮服出席總統(tǒng)就職儀式等重要場合。他近期開始設(shè)計運動服飾，嘗試將功能與美融合于一身。快和FT記者一起聽聽他的時尚經(jīng)吧。

Q1.怎樣形容你為這一季JASON WU x FILA運動時裝注入的設(shè)計理念？

Colorful, graphic, sporty.

鮮艷的，條塊的，運動的。

What I do is very inherent and very feminine dressy, and glamourous.And here, I have to translate that sense of glamour into something that's very sporty, very everyday, very casual.And also in men's wear.

我的設(shè)計通常都非常柔美，樣式華麗。在這里，我要將奢華轉(zhuǎn)化為非常具有運動氣息的、日常的、隨性的風(fēng)格。包括男裝在內(nèi)。

So those are things that made it interesting for me to do this collaboration, because it's not expected.There is definitely a lot of flora that can be seen in the whole section, that is a very signature Jason Wu DNA.

這是我愿意接受這次合作的原因。它對我是新的挑戰(zhàn)。我使用了大量的印花，這一整系列都有它們的出現(xiàn)——這是我的標(biāo)志性設(shè)計元素。

Q2.為何運動和時尚正走得越來越近？

I think right now fashion is in a place where you see a lot of athletic inspiration on the runways.There is no such thing as formal wear, day wear, or evening wear.Things are much more blurred, the lines are blurred, and people are getting increasingly more casual.

運動給時裝界帶來很多靈感，它們越來越多地出現(xiàn)在T臺上。如今對于正裝、日裝和晚裝的區(qū)分已經(jīng)不是那么明顯了。它們之間的界線越來越模糊。人們在裝束上越來越隨意。

They might want to do yoga, and leave the studio with the same thing.So the idea is to blur the line between what's functional and what's aesthetical, I think.

人們也許去做了瑜伽，然后穿著同一套衣服離開了瑜伽館?，F(xiàn)在的趨勢是，設(shè)計要集功能和美感于一身。

Jason Wu

Q3.成為奧巴馬夫人的“御用設(shè)計師”如何影響了你的職業(yè)生涯？

I think definitely for a Chinese guy, being able to dress the First Lady of America, is definitely my version of the American dream.Also I feel like, somehow, what I did become a part of American history, which is something I have never imagined.That is a really amazing feeling.

作為一個華裔設(shè)計師，能為美國第一夫人設(shè)計禮服，絕對就是我個人版本的“美國夢”。我感覺我的作品在某種意義上成了美國歷史的一部分，這超越了我的想象。這種感覺太棒了。

You know when you are under the spotlight, when you are very young, and very new, you are all of a sudden exposed to everything.Everything you do is being recorded, and judged, and in a very broad way.

在你非常年輕，還是個新人的時候，突然完全暴露在人們的注視下，你做的每一件事情都有人記錄和評論，廣泛傳播。

So sometimes I found that overwhelming.Now I am older, and I think things became much easier and I have much more self-confidence and understanding myself, and I feel much more comfortable being able to do projects that may not seem obvious from the first sight, such as the FILA collaboration.

我有時候會覺得壓力太大?，F(xiàn)在我又長了幾歲，事情就變得簡單了許多。因為我變得更自信了，對自己的理解更深，我也更愿意嘗試在第一眼看起來超越我領(lǐng)域的事情，比如這次和FILA的合作。

Jason Wu 2017春秋系列

Q4.社交媒體正在如何影響時尚業(yè)？

I think social media is fascinating because I grew up in social media basically.What is really interesting is that you can get very inspired, because you are all the time exposed to everything that is going on in the world.

作為一個成長于社交媒體時代的人，社交媒體對我來說太神奇了。它最大的魅力在于，你每時每刻都能接觸到這個世界上發(fā)生的任何事情。

It becomes a part of story-telling tool, and that is very important.Why is this piece of fabric so expensive? Because it may be the purest cashmere, and stitched in a certain way.

它正在成為一個“講故事”的工具，這十分重要。為什么這個料子如此昂貴？也許因為它是最高等級的羊絨，也許因為縫合它的特殊工藝。

I do think even for the younger generation that can't certainly afford luxury price point, they can begin to learn and have an appreciation for things of quality and craftsmanship, and things that take a lot of time and effort to make.Social media has made that really possible and easy to see.

即便年輕一代，可能還消費不起高端時裝的價位，他們可以開始去學(xué)習(xí)和欣賞什么是品質(zhì)和工藝，以及那些需要很多時間和精力制作出來的東西。社交媒體把這些變得更加可視了。

Jason Wu 2016 秋季系列

Q5.做服裝設(shè)計師最快樂的部分是什么？

I think it's getting to do something different everyday.It's never really the same.Every collection, you do something and run into a new challenge.You want to print on new material.You want to do something different with the fabric.Or you want to create new shapes.It's kind of problem solving everyday.It's really fun.

我想就是可以每天做不同的事情，永遠(yuǎn)不重復(fù)。每一季的設(shè)計都有新挑戰(zhàn)，你可能希望在新的一種材料上印花，你可能想嘗試新的布料，或者設(shè)計新的款型。就好像每天都活在“解決問題”的模式中。這充滿樂趣。

2009年（左）和2013年（右），米歇爾·奧巴馬兩次選擇了Jason Wu的設(shè)計，出席奧巴馬的總統(tǒng)就職儀式

Q6.如果給東方女性一條時尚建議，會是什么？

I think the fashion advice is just to be independent and individual.That is very important within the culture where we so often look upon western standard of beauty.I think now it is all changing and there are a lot of trends and a lot of things happening in Asia.That's becoming widely noticed.

我的時尚建議就是堅持獨立和個性。這在東方文化中尤為重要。因為我們老是會想去參照西方的審美，而這正在發(fā)生改變。整個世界都發(fā)現(xiàn)，現(xiàn)在亞洲時尚界有多活躍。

I think Asia itself has become a much more trend-setting place than it has never been before.That is something I feel like really interesting and really positive.

亞洲正越來越成為時尚潮流的發(fā)源地，這是個非常值得關(guān)注的積極趨勢。

詞匯總結(jié)

flora ['fl?r?]

n.植物區(qū)系；植物群

There is definitely a lot of flora that can be seen in the whole section.

我使用了大量的印花，這一整系列都有它們的出現(xiàn)。

aesthetical [i:s'θetik?l]

adj.審美的；美學(xué)的；有審美感的

So the idea is to blur the line between what's functional and what's aesthetical, I think.

現(xiàn)在的趨勢是，設(shè)計要集功能和美感于一身。

overwhelming [,ov?'w?lm??]

adj.壓倒性的；勢不可擋的

So sometimes I found that overwhelming.

我有時候會覺得壓力太大。

cashmere [k??'m??; 'k??m??]

n.羊絨；開士米；開士米羊毛織品

Because it may be the purest cashmere, and stitched in a certain way.

也許因為它是最高等級的羊絨，也許因為縫合它的特殊工藝。

under the spotlight

在聚光燈下，備受關(guān)注

You know when you are under the spotlight, when you are very young, and very new, you are all of a sudden exposed to everything.Everything you do is being recorded, and judged, and in a very broad way.

在你非常年輕，還是個新人的時候，突然完全暴露在人們的注視下，你做的每一件事情都有人記錄和評論，廣泛傳播。