你的奔馳和保時(shí)捷誕生的地方
在從斯圖加特的城市快鐵內(nèi)卡公園站下車，前往梅賽德斯-奔馳博物館(Mercedes-Benz Museum)的路上，我撞見一群嘰嘰喳喳的愛達(dá)荷州高中生，他們很好地總結(jié)了剛剛參觀的兩座汽車博物館。
“Mercedes has more details and has more history,” one of them told me. Porsche, he said, was more about Porsche and its racing heritage.
其中一個(gè)學(xué)生對(duì)我說，“梅賽德斯有更多細(xì)節(jié)和更多歷史。”他又說，保時(shí)捷則更多是關(guān)于保時(shí)捷以及它的賽車血統(tǒng)。
There you have it. My work is done.
就這些。我的工作完成了。
Stuttgart is home to these two luxury brands, and as a car guy and automotive journalist, I have always wanted to make the pilgrimage there. Germany does not have the sort of geographic center for its auto industry that the United States has in Detroit. But since the companies’ founders got their 19th century starts in Stuttgart, it comes closest.
斯圖加特是這兩個(gè)高端汽車品牌的故鄉(xiāng)，作為一個(gè)車迷和汽車記者，我一直都想去那里朝圣。德國(guó)的汽車工業(yè)沒有美國(guó)的底特律那種地域上的中心。不過這兩家公司都是19世紀(jì)在斯圖加特創(chuàng)始的，所以是最接近中心的地方了。
I had heard that the Mercedes-Benz Museum, like the Henry Ford Museum of American Innovation in Dearborn, Mich., offered an exhaustive history of transportation. I also knew that Stuttgart was a must-see for Porschephiles. I got my excuse to visit when my daughter, Marian, moved to Düsseldorf, an easy train ride away.
我聽說梅賽德斯-奔馳博物館和密西根州迪爾伯恩的亨利·福特美國(guó)創(chuàng)新博物館(Henry Ford Museum of American Innovation)一樣，呈現(xiàn)了一部詳盡的交通運(yùn)輸史。我還知道，斯圖加特是保時(shí)捷狂熱分子必去的地方。我的女兒瑪麗安搬到杜塞爾多夫后，我終于有了去那里的借口，坐一趟火車就到了。
My first stop was Mercedes, which presents a captivating walk through the birth of the automobile with the kind of historical sheet-metal eye candy that will wow an automotive fanatic. It’s a tale the company is allowed to own because a founder, Karl Benz, is credited with making the first car, and its other founder, Gottlieb Daimler, was not far behind.
我的第一站是梅賽德斯館，這里提供了一條令人著迷的參觀路線，用養(yǎng)眼的古早金屬片造物呈現(xiàn)汽車的誕生，讓汽車迷大呼過癮。這樣的故事，是這家公司可以據(jù)為己有的，因?yàn)樗膭?chuàng)始人卡爾·本茨(Karl Benz)被譽(yù)為第一輛汽車的制造者，而另一位創(chuàng)始人戈特利布·戴姆勒(Gottlieb Daimler)也沒有比他晚太多。
But before I even entered the museum, I was stunned by the building. It’s a double-helix design by the Dutch architects UNStudio and sits like a round jewel on Mercedes Street. It opened in 2006.
不過在進(jìn)入博物館前，我先是被它的建筑震撼了。這是一個(gè)由荷蘭建筑事務(wù)所UNStudio設(shè)計(jì)的雙螺旋造型，座落在梅賽德斯街上，就像一個(gè)圓形的珠寶。博物館是在2006年開放的。
Though Henry Ford made the expensive automobile popular with his affordable Model T in the early 20th century, it was Mr. Benz, an engineer and inventor, who got things started in 1885, when he installed the almost-one-horsepower internal combustion engine he invented into a three-wheel buggy.
亨利·福特在20世紀(jì)初用廉價(jià)的T型車將昂貴的汽車推向大眾，然而開創(chuàng)這一切的是工程師、發(fā)明家本茨，他在1885年將自己發(fā)明的一個(gè)接近一馬力的內(nèi)燃機(jī)裝進(jìn)了一輛三輪小車?yán)铩?/p>
The building provides a floor-by-floor circular walk through Mercedes history over its nine floors and 177,000 square feet of exhibition space, with the timeline starting on the top floor. There I found a reproduction of that first car, with the real Daimler car next to it. Actually, a horse, thankfully another reproduction, greeted me as I began my tour at the start of the automobile age, when one horsepower meant what it advertised.
建筑內(nèi)有九層、17.7萬平方英尺的展覽空間，觀眾可以沿著環(huán)形的走廊逐層瀏覽梅賽德斯的發(fā)展史，時(shí)間線的起點(diǎn)位于頂層。在那里，我看到了第一輛車的復(fù)刻版，與一輛原版戴姆勒放在一起。事實(shí)上在“自動(dòng)車”(automobile)時(shí)代起點(diǎn)迎接我的是一匹馬，令人寬慰的是那也是復(fù)制品，在那個(gè)年代，“馬力”指的就是一馬之力。
To my jaded 21st century eyes, those cars looked more like contraptions than useful transportation, but the engines were evidence of the true genius of these men. As the technology improved, internal combustion engines got the world moving and quickly ended up in buses, trucks, boats, airships and tractors, some of which are on display here. A descendant of those engines is sitting in your driveway.
透過我這雙百無聊賴的21世紀(jì)眼睛，這些車更像是古怪的裝置，而不是實(shí)用交通工具，然而引擎證明這些人都是實(shí)打?qū)嵉奶觳?。隨著技術(shù)的改良，內(nèi)燃機(jī)讓世界運(yùn)動(dòng)起來，很快被裝入巴士、卡車、輪船、飛艇和拖拉機(jī)里，其中一些在館內(nèi)就有展出。而你家門口的車道上，正端坐著這些引擎的一個(gè)后代。
Within a few years cars started to look like cars instead of horse-drawn carriages — for example the museum’s 1902 40 HP, the oldest-existing Mercedes-branded car. Still, the industry used carriage types to describe its models, like phaeton (a light, open carriage), shooting brake (a carriage meant for gamekeepers and sportsmen) and cabriolet (a light carriage with a foldable hood drawn by one horse). Even dashboard is a leftover carriage term — it was the board that insulated the driver from rocks and dirt from the road.
幾年下來，汽車已經(jīng)有了汽車的樣子，而不是像馬車的車身——例如館中展出的1902年產(chǎn)40 HP，現(xiàn)存最古老的梅賽德斯牌汽車。不過業(yè)界仍然用馬車車身的類型來描述其出品型號(hào)，比如法厄同(phaeton，一種輕型敞篷車)，獵車(shooting brake，一種供獵場(chǎng)看守人和狩獵者使用的車身)以及“小羊羔”(cabriolet，一種有折疊車篷的輕型車身，由一匹馬拉動(dòng))。連儀dashboard(儀表盤)都是馬車車身術(shù)語的遺存——指的是幫駕車者抵擋路上的石頭和泥土的一種板子。
The walls of the ramps that connect the floors are also part of the show. As I made my way down to the fourth floor, which highlighted safety, I learned that the ramp walls were made of polyamide, an airbag material. Clever.
樓層之間的斜坡也是展覽的一部分。在去以安全為主題的四樓時(shí)，我得知下樓斜坡的墻壁是聚酰胺制作的，一種安全氣囊材料。很聰明。
“It is the only museum in the world that can document over 130 years of automobile history complete from the very first day,” Miriam Weiss, a Mercedes spokeswoman, wrote in an email.
“這是世上唯一一座可以從第一天開始，完整記錄130年汽車史的博物館，”梅賽德斯發(fā)言人米莉安·魏斯(Miriam Weiss)在一封電郵中說。
Frankly, the museum can seem overwhelming because there is so much of that history to take in and so many beautiful cars to sigh over, like the 1955 300SL Coupe, known as the Gullwing. You will learn that Mercedes was the name of an important customer’s daughter, Mercédès Jellinek (interesting that her father, Emil, eventually changed his last name to Jellinek-Mercedes), and that the company’s logo, the three-pointed star, symbolizes earth, water and air.
坦白講，這座博物館有時(shí)讓人有些招架不住，因?yàn)橛刑嗟臍v史要了解，太多美麗的車輛要看，比如1955年產(chǎn)300SL轎跑，也就是人們所說的“鷗翼”(Gullwing)。你將了解到，“梅賽德斯”這個(gè)名字得于一位重要客戶的女兒默希迪絲·耶利內(nèi)克(Mercédès Jellinek，有意思的是，她的父親埃米爾后來把自己的姓改成了耶利內(nèi)克-梅賽德斯)，公司的三叉星標(biāo)志象征著水、土和空氣。
I traveled to the museum by train, but left with a strong urge to drive, something from the AMG performance division preferably, but alas, there was no opportunity. I went to the dealership on the bottom floor, but was told test drives must be scheduled about a week in advance.
我是坐火車去博物館的，但離開時(shí)產(chǎn)生了強(qiáng)烈的駕車欲望，最好是奔馳旗下高性能車廠AMG的出品，可惜沒有機(jī)會(huì)。我去了底層的銷售大廳，但被告知試駕需要提前一周左右預(yù)約。
There is no such problem at the Porsche Museum, about seven miles away from Mercedes. The Porsche building, which sits on three V-shape columns, is striking and seems to float above the ground. It was designed by Delugan Meissl Associated Architects of Vienna and opened in 2009.
距離梅賽德斯大約七英里的保時(shí)捷博物館(Porsche Museum)就不存在這個(gè)問題。它的建筑以三組V形柱支撐，看上去十分驚人，彷佛是懸浮在地面上。它的設(shè)計(jì)者是維也納的德魯甘-麥斯?fàn)柭?lián)合建筑事務(wù)所(Delugan Meissl Associated Architects)，于2009年開放。
Representatives in the lobby will let you drive, say, a 911 for about $165 an hour and up to about 60 miles, but be aware you have to leave a $3,000 deposit.
大堂的銷售代表可以讓你開到911，每小時(shí)大約165美元，距離最多60英里，不過要注意，需要交納3000美元押金。
No matter — see the museum first. It’s more straightforward than Mercedes’s, with everything on one floor and a loft. It contains more than 60,000 square feet of exhibition space, and the displays are spread out. You can follow the development of Porsche’s models, from the design ultimately used for the Volkswagen Beetle, first created by Ferdinand Porsche, the company founder, to the car that defines the company, the 911. You can see how the sleek Type 64 racecar from the late 1930s led to the beloved Porsche 356 and then to the 911.
沒關(guān)系——先看看博物館吧。它比梅賽德斯的更簡(jiǎn)單明了，所有內(nèi)容都位于一個(gè)樓層和一間閣樓里。展覽空間占地超過6萬平方英尺，展品分散在各個(gè)位置。你可以追溯保時(shí)捷車型的發(fā)展，從該公司創(chuàng)始人費(fèi)迪南德·保時(shí)捷(Ferdinand Porsche)最初創(chuàng)造、最終被大眾甲殼蟲(Volkswagen Beetle)采用的設(shè)計(jì)，到定義了這家公司的保時(shí)捷911。你可以看到1930年代晚期線條明快的64賽車(64 racecar)如何啟發(fā)了廣受喜愛的保時(shí)捷356，以及后來的911。
And for fun, there’s an area where you can press buttons to hear the engines of several cars, like the Panamera GTS and 911 GT3. Also impressive is the case that displays dozens of trophies from the company’s 30,000 motorsport wins. If you love the brand, especially its racing history, you’ll love this museum.
如果想找好玩的，有一個(gè)區(qū)域，你在那里點(diǎn)一下按鈕就可以聽到多款汽車的引擎發(fā)動(dòng)的聲音，比如帕納梅拉GTS(Panamera GTS)和911 GT3。另一個(gè)讓人印象深刻的地方是一個(gè)展示箱，里面陳列著保時(shí)捷從3萬場(chǎng)賽車比賽的勝利中留下的幾十件紀(jì)念品。如果你熱愛這個(gè)品牌，尤其是它的參賽歷史，你會(huì)愛上這座博物館。
“Racecars have real road grime, dirt and dents,” Achim Stejskal, director of the Porsche Museum and Historical Communications, wrote in an email about some of the museum’s exhibits. “And all the cars actually run and participate in hundreds of events worldwide every year.”
“賽車會(huì)留下道路的污垢、灰塵和凹痕，”保時(shí)捷博物館館長(zhǎng)以及歷史交流部主管阿希姆·斯泰斯卡爾(Achim Stejskal)在一封關(guān)于該館的一些展覽的郵件中寫道。“而且所有的車每年都真的會(huì)上路，并且參加世界各地的數(shù)百個(gè)活動(dòng)。”
Both museums touch on World War II and the roles that Mercedes and Ferdinand Porsche played, with Mercedes devoting part of a ramp wall explaining its use of forced labor and the allied bombing of its plants. Porsche has a brief mention of Mr. Porsche’s work as an engineer during the war, when he assisted Germany with tank design.
兩座博物館都提到了第二次世界大戰(zhàn)，以及梅賽德斯和費(fèi)迪南德·保時(shí)捷各自在這場(chǎng)戰(zhàn)爭(zhēng)中扮演的角色，奔馳用一面斜坡的一部分來解釋它曾經(jīng)使用強(qiáng)制勞工，以及同盟國(guó)曾轟炸它的工廠。保時(shí)捷簡(jiǎn)短地提到了其創(chuàng)始人在戰(zhàn)爭(zhēng)期間作為一名工程師，協(xié)助德國(guó)設(shè)計(jì)坦克所做的工作。
But do not, under any circumstance, miss the two-hour factory tour across the street from the Porsche Museum. (You need to book about a month in advance.) I was able to watch workers hand-make these precision sports cars, with 911s, 718 Caymans and 718 Boxsters teasing me as they crawled by on the assembly line. My tour group was full of Porsche owners who were being schooled on why their cars cost so much.
無論什么情況，千萬不要錯(cuò)過在保時(shí)捷博物館對(duì)面街道上的時(shí)長(zhǎng)兩小時(shí)的工廠參觀活動(dòng)。(你需要提前大約一個(gè)月預(yù)約。)我看到了工人們手工打造那些精密的跑車，在裝配線上緩緩移動(dòng)的911、卡宴718和718 Boxsters不斷地挑逗我。我跟隨的參觀團(tuán)里滿是保時(shí)捷車主，他們得到了“為什么你的車那么貴”的教育。
Fun factory facts: It makes about 240 cars a day; 15 percent of the work force is women; it takes 4.5 hours to make the famed boxer engine; and, the tour guide said, most of the leather comes from Austria.
關(guān)于工廠的有趣事實(shí)：它每天生產(chǎn)240輛車;15%的勞動(dòng)力為女性;制造著名的boxer引擎需要4.5個(gè)小時(shí);以及，據(jù)導(dǎo)游所說，大多數(shù)的皮革來自奧地利。
Many of the cars being built that day were headed to China and the United States. I watched as a powertrain arrived on an orange cart under a 718 Boxster for what my tour guide called its marriage into the chassis. A worker hit a button, and the powertrain rose precisely into the chassis. It was a beautiful thing to see.
許多在那天制造的車會(huì)被運(yùn)往中國(guó)和美國(guó)。我看到一輛橙色手推車載著一套動(dòng)力總成，將它送到一輛718 Boxster的下面，我的導(dǎo)游把這稱為它“和底盤結(jié)婚”。一名工人點(diǎn)了一下按鈕，動(dòng)力總成精準(zhǔn)地升高、與底盤合并。那個(gè)場(chǎng)景很美。
I would have liked to have followed that car to its new owners, telling them I saw their baby being born. And if their baby grows up and also moves to Düsseldorf, Stuttgart, after all, isn’t too far away.
我希望能跟著那輛車，直到它到達(dá)新主人的手中，告訴他們我見證了他們的寶貝的誕生。如果他們的寶貝長(zhǎng)大后也搬到杜塞爾多夫，畢竟，斯圖加特離那里不算太遠(yuǎn)。
Mercedes-Benz Museum, Mercedesstraße 100, 70372 Stuttgart. mercedes-benz.com/en/mercedes-benz/classic/museum/
梅賽德斯-奔馳博物館：Mercedesstraße 100，70372 Stuttgart。網(wǎng)址：mercedes-benz.com/en/mercedes-benz/classic/museum/
Tuesday to Sunday 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. 周二至周日，9 a.m.——6 p.m.
Adults: 10 euros, or $12. Children 15 to 17: 5 euros. Children up to 14: Free.
成人：10歐元或12歐元。12-17歲兒童：5歐元。14歲以下兒童：免門票
Porsche Museum, Porscheplatz 1 70435 Stuttgart-Zuffenhausen. porsche.com/museum/en/
保時(shí)捷博物館：Porscheplatz 1 70435 Stuttgart-Zuffenhausen. porsche.com/museum/en/
Tuesday to Sunday 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. 周二至周日：9 a.m. ——6 p.m.
Adults: 8 euros. Children up to 14, accompanied by an adult: Free.
成人：8歐元。14歲以下兒童，有成人陪伴：免門票
The museums offer a 25 percent discount if you present a ticket from the other museum.
如果你有梅賽德斯博物館的門票，可以獲得25%的折扣。
Porsche factory tours start at the museum; the factory is across the street. Available Monday to Friday. Advance reservations are a must. They can be made at [email protected]
保時(shí)捷工廠參觀項(xiàng)目從博物館開始;工廠在街道對(duì)面。周一至周五開放。必須提前預(yù)約。預(yù)約地址：[email protected]
Adults and children (must be at least 12 years old): 6 euros.
成人和兒童(12歲及以上)：6歐元。
