畢業(yè)生為何都要穿學(xué)位服

 

In the often unheated buildings of the middle ages, long gowns were necessary for scholars to ward off the cold.
在中世紀(jì)，房屋里一般不具備取暖設(shè)備，長(zhǎng)袍成為了學(xué)子們避寒的必需品。

Academic dress for graduations started in the 12th and 13th centuries when universities first began forming. Whether a student or a teacher, standard dress for scholars was clerical garb. Most medieval scholars had made certain vows, and had at least taken minor orders with the church so clerical robes were their main form of dress to begin with.    
畢業(yè)生穿著的學(xué)位服起源于大學(xué)形成初期的12至13世紀(jì)。當(dāng)時(shí)無(wú)論學(xué)生還是老師，學(xué)者的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)服飾是牧師的衣裝。大多數(shù)中世紀(jì)學(xué)者都要進(jìn)行某種宣誓，并且起碼舉行一些宗教儀式，所以牧師的長(zhǎng)袍成為早期學(xué)位服的主要形式。

In 1321, the University of Coimbra mandated that all Doctors, Bachelors, and Licentiates must wear gowns. In the latter half of the 14th century, excess in apparel was forbidden in some colleges and prescribed wearing a long gown. By the time of England's Henry VIII, Oxford and Cambridge began using a standard form of academic dress, which was controlled to the tiniest detail by the university.
 在1321年，孔伯拉大學(xué)要求所有的博士、學(xué)士和碩士必須穿長(zhǎng)袍。在隨后的14世紀(jì)中葉，一些學(xué)院禁止過(guò)度花哨的服裝，并且規(guī)定穿長(zhǎng)袍。在英國(guó)亨利八世時(shí)期，牛津和劍橋大學(xué)開始采用一種標(biāo)準(zhǔn)款式的學(xué)位服，這是大學(xué)做出的最細(xì)微的規(guī)定。

Not until the late 1800s were colors assigned to signify certain areas of study, but they were only standardized in the United States. European institutions have always had diversity in their academic dress, but American institutions employ a definite system of dress thanks to Gardner Cotrell Leonard from Albany, New York. After designing gowns for his 1887 class at Williams College, he took an interest in the subject and published an article on academic dress in 1893. Soon after he was asked to work with an Intercollegiate Commission to form a system of academic apparel.
直到1800年，顏色才被用到學(xué)位服上預(yù)示著某一類學(xué)科，但是他們?cè)诿绹?guó)是整齊劃一的。歐洲的大學(xué)經(jīng)常有不同種類的學(xué)位服，拜紐約奧爾巴尼的加德納•科特爾•倫納德所賜，美國(guó)的大學(xué)采用了一套規(guī)格確定的學(xué)位服。在為1887年的畢業(yè)班設(shè)計(jì)出長(zhǎng)袍學(xué)位服后，他對(duì)這一領(lǐng)域產(chǎn)生了興趣并且于1893年發(fā)表了一篇關(guān)于學(xué)位服的文章。不久，他被任命到校際委員會(huì)來(lái)規(guī)劃一套學(xué)位服。

The system Gardner Cotrell Leonard helped form was based on gown cut, style and fabric; as well as designated colors to represent fields of study. For example green was the color of medieval herbs, and was assigned to medical studies. Because olive is close to green, was designated for pharmaceutical studies.

加德納•科特爾•倫納德設(shè)計(jì)形成的學(xué)位服系統(tǒng)建立在長(zhǎng)袍的裁剪、款式和面料上，同時(shí)指定不同顏色代表某一學(xué)科。比如綠色是中草藥的顏色，于是綠色就被運(yùn)用到醫(yī)學(xué)上。因?yàn)殚蠙旖咏G色，橄欖色就被運(yùn)用到藥學(xué)上。

In 1959, the American Council on Education had a Committee on Academic Costumes and Ceremonies review the costume code and make changes. In 1986, the committee changed the code to clarify the use of dark blue for a Doctor of Philosophy (Ph.D.)

在1959年，美國(guó)教育理事會(huì)指派負(fù)責(zé)學(xué)位服和畢業(yè)儀式的委員會(huì)對(duì)學(xué)位服飾規(guī)格進(jìn)行審查評(píng)估，并做出了改變。在1986年，委員會(huì)改變了服飾規(guī)格，明確了哲學(xué)博士使用深藍(lán)色的學(xué)位服。

The shape and size of the hood and the sleeve design of the gown show the degree a student pursued: a Bachelor's Degree gown has pointed sleeves and no hood, a Master's Degree gown had long, closed sleeves with arm slits and a narrow hood, and a Doctor's Degree had bell-shaped sleeves and a draped, wide hood.
學(xué)位長(zhǎng)袍中披肩布和袖子的形狀、尺寸標(biāo)志著該名學(xué)生獲得的學(xué)位：學(xué)士學(xué)位服的袖口是尖的，并且沒(méi)有披肩，碩士學(xué)位服的袖子長(zhǎng)而且緊，在臂膀出有縫隙，有一個(gè)較窄的披肩，博士學(xué)位服的袖子是鐘形的，較寬松的披肩圍成一圈。

The color of the hood's lining tells which college or university the degree was given by. For example: Harvard is crimson, Temple is cherry and white, and Cornell is purple and white. However, other than the lining, the hood must be black.

披肩的襯里顏色表明了是哪所學(xué)院或大學(xué)授予的學(xué)位。比如：哈佛大學(xué)是赤紅色的，天普大學(xué)是櫻桃色和白色，康奈爾大學(xué)是紫色和白色，然而，除了襯里，披肩的其他部分必須是黑色的。

The field of study is designated by the color of the hood's facing. For example: Theology is scarlet, Arts Letters and Humanities are white, and Music is pink.各學(xué)科領(lǐng)域由披肩飾面的顏色來(lái)指定。例如：神學(xué)是猩紅色的，藝術(shù)與人文學(xué)科是白色的，音樂(lè)學(xué)是粉色的。

Caps should only be made of black cotton poplin, broadcloth, rayon, or silk, to match gown they are to be used with. Velvet may only be used for a doctor's degree.
 學(xué)位帽只能由黑色純棉府綢、絨面、人造絲或絲綢制成，來(lái)和各類長(zhǎng)袍匹配。絲絨一般只用于博士學(xué)位。

Tassels should be fastened to the middle of the cap's top and allowed to lie where it will. It should be black, or the color of field of study, unless it is for a doctor's degree in which case is may be gold.

流蘇應(yīng)當(dāng)系在學(xué)位帽頂?shù)闹虚g部位并使之自然下垂。流蘇應(yīng)為黑色或者是該學(xué)科的顏色，而博士學(xué)位的流蘇可以是金黃色的。