歐美二手名牌時(shí)裝網(wǎng)店走紅

Second-hand used to be a taboo. No self-respecting fashion fan would admit to buying someone’s cast-offs, especially just a few seasons old. Fashion was all about new, new, new. Times have changed. Now it’s about the nearly new; pre-owned pieces bought for a thrifty price, just a few seasons after their catwalk debut.

買(mǎi)舊衣服穿，在過(guò)去是大忌。有自尊心的時(shí)尚擁躉都不會(huì)坦承自己買(mǎi)過(guò)別人穿過(guò)的二手衣服(尤其是只過(guò)了幾個(gè)時(shí)尚季的裝束)。時(shí)尚過(guò)去總是“以新為上”。但如今早已今非昔比，現(xiàn)今追求的是八成新，只過(guò)了幾個(gè)時(shí)裝季的二手裝往往以很優(yōu)惠的價(jià)格就能淘到手。

At the same time, avid shoppers have become shrewd sellers, turning to booming consignment websites to shift unwanted goods quickly and conveniently. Previously, their options were donating or going through the inconvenient, time-consuming process of selling-on through bricks and mortar stores. Online, the vast eBay marketplace was their only obvious option.

與此同時(shí)，狂熱的買(mǎi)家如今搖身一變成了精明的賣(mài)家，他們借助快速發(fā)展的代銷(xiāo)網(wǎng)站便捷處理自己的累贅東西。在過(guò)去，他們的處理辦法不是捐贈(zèng)就是通過(guò)實(shí)體店轉(zhuǎn)賣(mài)，既麻煩又費(fèi)時(shí)。而規(guī)?？涨暗膃Bay在線拍賣(mài)市場(chǎng)曾是其唯一選擇。

Julie Wainwright, chief executive and founder of The RealReal, noticed a gap in the market. “As a shopper, you run out of space in your closet. After a while it just piles up. Before us your options for reselling were limited and clunky,” she explains. In five years of business (predominantly in the US), The RealReal has sold on 2.5m items. Chanel, Hermès, Prada, Rolex and Louis Vuitton are some of the biggest sellers. Consignors earn 60 to 70 per cent of the sale.

The RealReal創(chuàng)始人兼CEO朱麗•溫賴(lài)特(Julie Wainwright)注意到了市場(chǎng)存在的巨大缺口。“對(duì)買(mǎi)家來(lái)說(shuō)，家里的儲(chǔ)衣柜已無(wú)多余存儲(chǔ)空間。過(guò)不了多久，就會(huì)衣滿(mǎn)為患。大家把它們?cè)俎D(zhuǎn)賣(mài)的選擇余地既小又別扭。”她解釋道。運(yùn)營(yíng)五年來(lái)(主戰(zhàn)場(chǎng)在美國(guó)市場(chǎng))，The RealReal已成功售出250萬(wàn)件物件。香奈兒(Chanel)、愛(ài)馬仕(Hermès)、普拉達(dá)(Prada)、勞力士(Rolex)以及路易威登(Louis Vuitton)是最受歡迎的品牌。零售價(jià)的60-70%歸委托人所有。

“Second-hand used to have a stigma. Today it has none: worldwide last year $200bn dollars of personal luxury products went into the market, in the US $60bn were sold,” says Wainwright. “There are multiple reasons — one is a generational shift, one is a green thing — when you buy something previously owned, you’re recycling, it’s a circular economy — the other is the internet and access to information.” To her, the biggest shift that laid the foundations of the consignment boom occurred in 2008. “It was such a devastating time for almost everyone and the financial crisis brought a sense of guilt to shopping. That said, no one is going to stop buying luxury but post-2008 the idea of buying luxury on value became important.”

“買(mǎi)二手時(shí)裝在過(guò)去是件丟臉的事，如今則大不一樣了：去年全球個(gè)人奢侈品的銷(xiāo)售額高達(dá)2000億美元，光美國(guó)就達(dá)600億美元。”溫賴(lài)特說(shuō)，“買(mǎi)賣(mài)二手貨原因多種多樣——其中之一是出于更新?lián)Q代，第二個(gè)原因是為了環(huán)保：購(gòu)買(mǎi)二手貨屬于回收利用，是循環(huán)經(jīng)濟(jì);另一大原因是因特網(wǎng)的廣泛應(yīng)用以及獲取信息的渠道異常便捷。”在她看來(lái)，奠定網(wǎng)絡(luò)代銷(xiāo)蓬勃發(fā)展基礎(chǔ)的最大轉(zhuǎn)變始于2008年。“金融危機(jī)對(duì)幾乎所有人造成了毀滅性打擊，當(dāng)時(shí)花錢(qián)購(gòu)物有某種負(fù)罪感。即便如此，消費(fèi)者仍然大肆購(gòu)買(mǎi)奢侈品，但2008年金融危機(jī)后，高性?xún)r(jià)比地購(gòu)買(mǎi)奢侈品變得越來(lái)越盛行。”

While the US market is dominated by The RealReal, France’s Vestiaire Collective has monopolised the European market. It started in 2009 with just 3,000 items from friends and networks, discloses Fanny Moizant, one of the site’s original six. Now, they have more than 400,000 items online and took €78m in 2015. Its bestsellers are Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Louboutin, though mid-priced labels such as Isabel Marant and Maje also do well. Moizant also cites the financial crisis as a catalyst. “I saw the marketing phenomenon that was the fashion bloggers. In France they were called the Recessionistas, because they appeared at the height of the crisis and were finding a smart way of reselling their own pieces on blogs and making money, even though there was no real system.” She agrees that the taboo around “second-hand” has disappeared.

美國(guó)市場(chǎng)由The RealReal主宰，而歐洲市場(chǎng)的主導(dǎo)者是法國(guó)電商Vestiaire Collective。據(jù)該電商最初6位創(chuàng)始人之一的范妮•莫藏(Fanny Moizant)透露：網(wǎng)店創(chuàng)建于2009年，起初只有朋友與其它網(wǎng)站提供的3000件二手奢侈品。如今，網(wǎng)站銷(xiāo)售的二手奢侈品超過(guò)了40萬(wàn)件，2015年的利潤(rùn)高達(dá)7800萬(wàn)歐元。網(wǎng)站最暢銷(xiāo)的品牌是路易威登、香奈兒以及婁伯丁(Louboutin)，盡管伊莎貝爾•瑪蘭(Isabel Marant)與Maje等中等價(jià)位品牌也異常搶手。瑪蘭也認(rèn)為2008年金融危機(jī)是二手奢侈品網(wǎng)店井噴式發(fā)展的“催化劑”。“我當(dāng)初看到各大時(shí)尚博主這類(lèi)營(yíng)銷(xiāo)現(xiàn)象。在法國(guó)，這些人被稱(chēng)為‘不景氣時(shí)尚達(dá)人’(Recessionistas)，因?yàn)樗麄兂霈F(xiàn)在金融危機(jī)最嚴(yán)重的時(shí)候，找到了一種在博客兜售自己用過(guò)的奢侈品并且賺錢(qián)的妙招，盡管當(dāng)時(shí)并沒(méi)有實(shí)際銷(xiāo)售平臺(tái)。”她也認(rèn)同社會(huì)上“二手奢侈品”犯忌之說(shuō)已煙消云散的看法。

“Fashion consumption has changed. Your mother or grandmother would buy a coat for a lifetime, we buy two or three coats a season. People need our service — they need a place to let go and get rid of this excess.”

“時(shí)尚消費(fèi)觀念已經(jīng)大變樣了。我們的母親或祖母那一代人往往會(huì)買(mǎi)件外套穿上一輩子，而我們這一代人每個(gè)時(shí)裝季會(huì)買(mǎi)上2、3件外套。消費(fèi)者需要我們提供這樣的服務(wù)——他們需要處理自己多余服裝的場(chǎng)所。”

Their success comes from their ability to mimic the luxury shopping experience. “We have a deep appreciation of the brands, the products, the quality and the craftsmanship,” says Wainwright. “Ebay was sad. The romance was broken. It lacked integrity. So our goal was to maintain the brands’ integrity.” Moizant agrees: “Before us, there was a second-hand market but it lacked this — we brought in two big pillars. The first was trust, which eBay lacked. The second was curation — the internet is so vast, so we do the job of selecting the best pieces. We have a team of stylists, who each day go through about 4,000 pieces and vet them digitally and pick the best. We also authenticate with a whole other team of experts.” Often this involves working with brands and anti-counterfeit organisations.

這些網(wǎng)店成功的秘訣緣于完全模仿奢侈品購(gòu)買(mǎi)體驗(yàn)。“我們對(duì)各大品牌的內(nèi)涵、旗下產(chǎn)品、質(zhì)量以及做工了如指掌。”溫賴(lài)特說(shuō)，“Ebay是個(gè)傷心地，破壞了消費(fèi)者購(gòu)置奢侈品的浪漫心情。Ebay沒(méi)有誠(chéng)信。所以我們當(dāng)初設(shè)立的目標(biāo)就是維系各大時(shí)尚品牌的誠(chéng)信。”莫藏對(duì)此也深有同感：“在我們網(wǎng)店成立之前，曾有個(gè)二手奢侈品交易市場(chǎng)，但它缺少兩樣?xùn)|西，而這兩樣?xùn)|西后來(lái)成為我們的立身之本，其一是誠(chéng)信(Ebay缺乏)，第二是產(chǎn)品管理——因特網(wǎng)功能強(qiáng)大，所以我們挑選最好的產(chǎn)品。我們有專(zhuān)門(mén)的設(shè)計(jì)師團(tuán)隊(duì)，他們每天在網(wǎng)上瀏覽4000件時(shí)裝，并做出甄別，擇優(yōu)選擇。我們還聘請(qǐng)另一專(zhuān)家團(tuán)隊(duì)對(duì)其進(jìn)行鑒定。”通常這意味著與品牌公司以及其它防偽機(jī)構(gòu)進(jìn)行通力合作。

Neither platform sees itself as a vintage site. “We want people to feel like the pieces are in stores now, or could be — that it’s modern,” says Wainwright, explaining that most products are two to three years old (though some handbags or watches go back 10 to 20 years). The platforms offer the same service as luxury retailers — slick delivery, broad choice, informed advice, a social shopping experience, as exemplified by Vestiaire’s user profiles. “We go beyond e-commerce into being a social network for fashion. It’s so rare to find that in a second-hand website — and that’s what women and girls love; sharing their love of fashion with other fashionistas.”

無(wú)論是The RealReal還是Vestiaire Collective，都沒(méi)把自己視作舊貨交易場(chǎng)所。“我們希望消費(fèi)者感覺(jué)它們就是(或者說(shuō)盡可能是)門(mén)店銷(xiāo)售的產(chǎn)品，讓消費(fèi)者感受到那種時(shí)尚快感。”溫賴(lài)特說(shuō)，并解釋為何所售商品多數(shù)為兩三年前的東西(有些手袋與手表是10-20年前的東西)。兩大在線銷(xiāo)售平臺(tái)提供的是與奢侈品零售商同樣水準(zhǔn)的服務(wù)——送貨靈活、選擇多樣、咨詢(xún)?nèi)嬉约邦H具親和力的購(gòu)物體驗(yàn)，Vestiaire的客戶(hù)資料就是個(gè)明證。“我們突破了純電商領(lǐng)域，變成了時(shí)尚社交網(wǎng)站。這在二手奢侈品網(wǎng)店顯得鳳毛麟角)這正是女性朋友喜歡我們網(wǎng)店的原因所在：與其他時(shí)尚達(dá)人(fashionistas)分享時(shí)尚的愛(ài)好。”

It’s all about celebrating the joy of shopping. “Our average customer shops six times a year, so every other month — they browse,” says Wainwright.

最重要的就是大家同慶購(gòu)物之快樂(lè)。“客戶(hù)每年在我們網(wǎng)店平均購(gòu)物6次，也就是說(shuō)每二個(gè)月就會(huì)光顧一次我們網(wǎng)店。”溫賴(lài)特說(shuō)。

Moizant’s Vestiaire shoppers spend on average €400 each time. She’s identified two main behaviours: “One is looking for a piece you missed — sold out, or something you regretted not buying. The second is price-driven — you want a Chanel bag but can’t afford full price.

光顧莫藏Vestiaire網(wǎng)店的購(gòu)物者每次平均花費(fèi)400歐元。她認(rèn)定有兩大原因：“其一是淘自己錯(cuò)過(guò)的東西——銷(xiāo)售一空或是自己遺憾當(dāng)初沒(méi)買(mǎi)的東西;第二是價(jià)格原因——自己想要個(gè)香奈兒包，但掏不起全價(jià)。”

On both sites, the selling experience is just as slick — aside from photographing garments and deciding what to sell, there is little to worry about. “We make it really easy — we pick up the pieces, we get rid of any inconvenience or friction. Most of our consignors work a lot — they don’t want to run around chasing their previously owned goods,” says Wainwright. “We pay and communicate regularly — it becomes an easy source of income.” The majority of our consignors are not whales — they’re making $8,000-$10,000 a year, though others have made enough to remodel their homes.”

兩大網(wǎng)店的銷(xiāo)售經(jīng)驗(yàn)都非常老練——除了給上架服裝拍攝照片以及決定銷(xiāo)售內(nèi)容之外，其它一切無(wú)需擔(dān)心。“我們確保銷(xiāo)售順暢——挑選好產(chǎn)品后，消除任何不便或是爭(zhēng)執(zhí)。我們多數(shù)委托人的工作都很辛苦——他們不希望整天緊盯自己委托賣(mài)出的二手貨。”溫賴(lài)特說(shuō)，“我們給對(duì)方付費(fèi)并與其定期溝通——這是份輕松穩(wěn)妥的收入。多數(shù)委托人并非名人，他們每年在賣(mài)二手時(shí)裝上能掙8000-10000美元，盡管有些人從中掙的錢(qián)足夠裝修房子了。”

Vestiaire offer a concierge service for the top 10 per cent of clients — they will photograph, sell and store items on their behalf. For those doing it themselves, there are simple instructions detailing how to shoot your stock in the best way.

Vestiaire為前10%的客戶(hù)提供貴賓服務(wù)——代表對(duì)方為其二手貨拍照、銷(xiāo)售以及存儲(chǔ)。對(duì)于那些喜歡親力親為的客戶(hù)，網(wǎng)店會(huì)簡(jiǎn)單指導(dǎo)對(duì)方如何給自己的二手貨拍出最佳效果來(lái)。

Wainwright can see the potential for attracting those who shop at the highest end. “A key growth area of The RealReal is jewellery. We’ve set up valuation offices for fine jewels and watches in New York, Chicago, San Francisco and Los Angeles where you can meet with a gemologist and get a report about what they would sell for. It’s totally different to the pawnshop experience.” Onsite you’ll find special edition Rolexes selling for more than $40,000 and Cartier bracelets for more than $10,000.

溫賴(lài)特十分清楚能夠吸引那些高端購(gòu)物者的巨大商機(jī)。“The RealReal增長(zhǎng)最快的領(lǐng)域是首飾。我們?cè)诩~約、芝加哥、舊金山以及洛杉磯等地建立了高檔首飾與腕表的估價(jià)辦公室，委托人可與寶石專(zhuān)家見(jiàn)面，獲得自己二手奢侈品的評(píng)估報(bào)告。這與典當(dāng)行截然不同。”消費(fèi)者能在網(wǎng)店上淘到售價(jià)4萬(wàn)多美元的限量版勞力士腕表與售價(jià)1萬(wàn)多美元的卡地亞(Cartier)手鐲。

Noting the success of these womenswear platforms, in 2014 Arun Gupta started menswear market place Grailed — a reference to “that specific piece you obsess over owning, but can’t ever find or afford”. The site began in his bedroom after he trained himself to code. In the week we speak, 50,000 items were on the site. The team has also just launched a content platform, Dry Clean Only, to profile and discuss the items on Grailed. “When we started out there were five to 10 women’s marketplaces, already fairly popular,” he explains.

看到二手女裝在線銷(xiāo)售平臺(tái)的成功后，2014年，古普塔(Arun Gupta)創(chuàng)建了Grailed男裝網(wǎng)店——特指“個(gè)人覬覦已久、但苦尋無(wú)蹤或是超出自己財(cái)力之物”。古普塔自從學(xué)會(huì)編碼方法后，就在自己臥室創(chuàng)建了Grailed網(wǎng)店。就在接受我采訪的那一周里，Grailed網(wǎng)店上架了5萬(wàn)件男裝。此外它最近還成立了內(nèi)容平臺(tái)Dry Clean Only，對(duì)Grailed網(wǎng)店銷(xiāo)售的男裝進(jìn)行簡(jiǎn)介與評(píng)價(jià)。“我們成立伊始，已有5-10家知名度很高的二手奢侈女裝網(wǎng)店在運(yùn)營(yíng)，他解釋道。

A fashion obsessive, like Wainwright and Moizant he noticed that the second-hand gems came from personal connections, rather than surfing eBay. “Not having much money to spend, I spent hours on the internet looking for deals. I found the best prices — and best pieces — always came from friends or other enthusiasts on key menswear forums.”

作為與溫賴(lài)特以及莫藏一樣的時(shí)尚癡迷者，古普塔留意到二手首飾往往從私人關(guān)系圈、而非eBay淘得。“自己余錢(qián)不多，所以在網(wǎng)上淘寶，我發(fā)現(xiàn)最低價(jià)格永遠(yuǎn)來(lái)自自己的好友或是各大男裝論壇上的時(shí)尚癡迷者。”

On Grailed, bestsellers are very much what’s currently big in stores; Saint Laurent, Raf Simons and Rick Owens, and streetwear brands such as Supreme and Palace, though the site also has a reputation for playing host to rare gems, such as Simons pieces from the 2000s. Gupta takes a low commission; 6 per cent. He identifies the same two user patterns as Vestiaire’s Moizant. “Some people are specifically looking for rare items to add to their ever-growing collections — we’re one of the few places you can find rare Japanese brands like Undercover and Julius. At the same time many people are just looking for good deals.”

Grailed上的暢銷(xiāo)貨往往與實(shí)體店的熱銷(xiāo)款大同小異;圣羅蘭(Saint Laurent)、拉夫•西蒙斯(Raf Simons)以及瑞克•歐文斯(Rick Owens)等時(shí)尚名品以及Supreme與Palace等街裝品牌的二手貨異常搶手，盡管Grailed還時(shí)常銷(xiāo)售稀缺款寶石(如產(chǎn)自21世紀(jì)初的拉夫•西蒙斯寶石)。古普塔只收取6%的傭金。與Vestiaire的莫藏一樣，他也發(fā)現(xiàn)了客戶(hù)的兩大相同消費(fèi)模式。“有些消費(fèi)者為了增加自己藏品而專(zhuān)淘稀品——我們是少數(shù)幾家可淘到Undercover與Julius等日本稀有品牌的其中一家網(wǎng)店。與此同時(shí)，很多消費(fèi)者就想找物美價(jià)廉的二手貨。”

So what do the brands have to say? Legally they have no right to complain, thanks to the precedent set by pivotal case Tiffany Inc vs eBay Inc in 2010. “Ebay won. Brands were told that they can’t control the resale market. That case is so clear that there’s no obstacles for us to sell something that is previously owned,” says Wainwright. “We’re not going anywhere. The world has changed. And at some point brands are going to have to realise that.” Less than 5 per cent of The RealReal’s sales come from vendors, though Wainwright sees growing ways to collaborate with brands now their relationship has mellowed. “They are going through an evolution. Our first year, I heard they hated us. Now, they’re keen to find a way to work together. They’ve realised they can maybe learn something from our data.” In her mind, they should be grateful.

那么，各大品牌對(duì)此有何看法?從法律層面說(shuō)，它們沒(méi)有申訴權(quán)利，這都要?dú)w功于2010年蒂芙尼(Tiffany)起訴eBay的關(guān)鍵判例。“法庭最初判eBay勝訴，各大品牌被明確告知eBay等網(wǎng)店難以控制再賣(mài)市場(chǎng)。該判例清晰明了，所以我們銷(xiāo)售二手貨在法律上毫無(wú)障礙。”溫賴(lài)特說(shuō)。“我們并非四處出擊，現(xiàn)在跟那時(shí)早就不一樣了。總有一天，各大品牌會(huì)明白這一點(diǎn)。”雖然The RealReal與各大品牌的合作方式越來(lái)越多(如今雙方關(guān)系日趨緊密)，但只有不到5%的銷(xiāo)售額來(lái)自小二。“各大品牌對(duì)我們代銷(xiāo)網(wǎng)站的態(tài)度經(jīng)歷了演變過(guò)程。The RealReal成立第一年，我聽(tīng)說(shuō)它們對(duì)其恨之入骨。如今，他們挖空心思找法子與我們合作。對(duì)方意識(shí)到也許可以從我們的客戶(hù)數(shù)據(jù)庫(kù)了解相關(guān)情況。”在溫賴(lài)特看來(lái)，各大品牌應(yīng)對(duì)RealReal心存感激。

“This year, we’re going to put into our consignors’ hands, all of whom are in the US right now, $220m in payment. They’ll use the money they make from the site to go back into the store to buy new — they’ll go and buy more.”

“今年，我們打算把2.2億美元的返款全部交給二手奢侈品委托人(他們?nèi)缃袢诿绹?guó))。他們會(huì)用這筆錢(qián)進(jìn)實(shí)體店買(mǎi)新奢侈品——他們肯定會(huì)大買(mǎi)特買(mǎi)。”

What they buy will be increasingly shaped by the resale market. One of Wainwright’s proudest achievements is the way she’s slowly affecting the luxury market and changing how people shop — particularly by putting the spotlight on the true value of specific pieces and popular brands. The lack of lasting appeal for some key houses is evident in the sites’ pricing and sales and may surprise. Although changes within a brand can do a lot to create resale buzz.

而消費(fèi)者的購(gòu)物習(xí)慣將越來(lái)越取決于二手時(shí)裝市場(chǎng)。溫賴(lài)特最引以為豪的是，自己正逐漸影響奢侈品市場(chǎng)以及正改變消費(fèi)者的購(gòu)物模式——尤其是讓消費(fèi)者對(duì)特定款式與流行品牌的真實(shí)價(jià)值一清二楚。有些大品牌的吸引力難以為繼，在網(wǎng)店的定價(jià)與銷(xiāo)售額量就已一目了然，這可能會(huì)出乎業(yè)界意料。然而品牌內(nèi)部的人事變動(dòng)對(duì)于自身二手品的熱銷(xiāo)與否也會(huì)有巨大作用。

“Two-and-a-half years ago, Gucci had really bad resale value,” offers Wainwright, citing the recent appointment of Alessandro Michele as a turning point. “Now it’s right up there — it’s big. They reinvigorated the brand and people got excited, so now we can even sell old Gucci, from pre-Michele, particularly the logo stuff — it has value again.”

“兩年前，古馳(Gucci)的二手貨售價(jià)差強(qiáng)人意。”溫賴(lài)特主動(dòng)說(shuō)道，并說(shuō)古馳最近聘請(qǐng)亞歷山德羅•米歇爾(Alessandro Michele)出任創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)成為其轉(zhuǎn)折點(diǎn)。“如今古馳又成了高大上的搶手品牌，它又煥發(fā)出勃勃生機(jī)，消費(fèi)者對(duì)其趨之若鶩，因此現(xiàn)在甚至米歇爾之前幾位創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)設(shè)計(jì)的古馳(尤其是帶標(biāo)識(shí)的那些類(lèi)別)都容易出手——它又變得價(jià)值不菲了。”

She feels resale educates consumers, giving them power and knowledge. “Our shoppers look to check the resale value of things. They do notice if a brand has no resale value and move away from it. When I meet consignors they always say ‘You’ve changed the way I shop.’”

她認(rèn)為二手奢侈品的買(mǎi)賣(mài)很好地教育了消費(fèi)者，讓其增加了信心、增長(zhǎng)了見(jiàn)識(shí)。“我們的消費(fèi)者期望檢驗(yàn)二手奢侈品的價(jià)格。他們真的注意到：如果該品牌沒(méi)有二次銷(xiāo)售價(jià)值，他們就會(huì)移情其它品牌。我與委托人見(jiàn)面時(shí)，他們總是這樣說(shuō)：‘您改變了我的購(gòu)物模式。’”