為了滿足中國(guó)人的胃 馬來西亞棕櫚油巨頭都改種榴蓮了……

榴蓮被譽(yù)為“熱帶水果之王”。它氣味濃烈，愛之者贊其香，厭之者怨其臭。近幾年，很多中國(guó)消費(fèi)者愛上了榴蓮的味道，榴蓮蛋糕、榴蓮披薩等各種榴蓮口味的產(chǎn)品層出不窮?？吹街袊?guó)市場(chǎng)對(duì)榴蓮的巨大需求，馬來西亞計(jì)劃將榴蓮作為下一個(gè)主要出口產(chǎn)品，并正在積極開發(fā)數(shù)千英畝土地種植榴蓮。

聞起來有點(diǎn)臭、滿身帶刺的榴蓮將成為馬來西亞的下一個(gè)主要出口產(chǎn)品，馬來西亞正在大規(guī)模種植榴蓮， 面積達(dá)數(shù)千英畝，希望從中國(guó)對(duì)榴蓮前所未有的旺盛需求中賺取利潤(rùn)。

Once planted in family orchards and small-scale farms, the durian, described by some as smelling like an open sewer or turpentine when ripe, is attracting investments like never before. Even property tycoons and companies in palm oil, Malaysia’s biggest agricultural export, are making forays into the durian business.

有人將成熟榴蓮的氣味形容為露天下水道或松脂的氣味，此前只在家庭果園和小規(guī)模農(nóng)場(chǎng)中種植，如今吸引的投資規(guī)?？芍^前所未有。就連房地產(chǎn)大亨和該國(guó)第一大出口農(nóng)產(chǎn)品棕櫚油的制造商都紛紛進(jìn)軍榴蓮種植產(chǎn)業(yè)。

“The durian industry is transforming from local to global, large-scale farming due to the great demand from China,” said Lim Chin Khee, a durian industry consultant. “Before the boom, a durian farm in Malaysia would be a leisure farm ... Now they are hundreds of acres and bigger, and many more will come.”

馬來西亞榴蓮產(chǎn)業(yè)顧問林欽奇(音)說：“(馬來西亞)榴蓮產(chǎn)業(yè)正在從本土向全球轉(zhuǎn)型，大規(guī)模種植源于中國(guó)的巨大需求，在這波熱潮之前，馬來西亞的榴蓮農(nóng)場(chǎng)本來是休閑農(nóng)場(chǎng)……現(xiàn)在它們都是數(shù)百英畝，甚至更大，未來還會(huì)有更多的榴蓮農(nóng)場(chǎng)出現(xiàn)。”

Durian may be banned in some airports, public transport and hotels in Southeast Asia for its pungent smell, but the Chinese are huge fans. Durian-flavored foods sold in China include pizza, butter, salad dressing and milk.

盡管東南亞的一些機(jī)場(chǎng)、公共交通和酒店禁止攜帶具有刺激性氣味的榴蓮入內(nèi)，但中國(guó)人卻是榴蓮的擁躉，在中國(guó)銷售的榴蓮風(fēng)味食品包括披薩、黃油、沙拉醬和牛奶。

最近的一個(gè)午餐高峰時(shí)段，26歲的海倫·李(音)在上海一家主打榴蓮披薩的餐廳吃飯，這家餐廳的幾乎每位客人都點(diǎn)了一份60元的榴蓮披薩。海倫·李說：“最初我也討厭榴蓮，因?yàn)槲矣X得它氣味怪異，但吃起來，真的太美味了。”

At another Shanghai restaurant selling durian chicken hotpot for around 148 yuan, owner Chen Weihao said the store could sell around 20 to 25 kg of imported Thai durian every month.

而在另一家賣榴蓮雞肉火鍋的上海餐廳，店主陳偉豪(音)說，他的餐廳每月能賣出20至25公斤左右的泰國(guó)進(jìn)口榴蓮。這家餐廳的榴蓮雞肉火鍋每份售價(jià)約148元。

Chinese pay top dollar for Malaysia’s ‘Musang King’ variety of durian because of its creamy texture and bitter-sweet taste. Prices of the variety, now planted all over the country, have nearly quadrupled in the last five years.

中國(guó)人高價(jià)購(gòu)買馬來西亞的“貓山王”榴蓮，這個(gè)品種的榴蓮口感細(xì)膩、甜味里帶著微苦，現(xiàn)在馬來西亞全國(guó)各地均有種植。過去5年間，這個(gè)品種的價(jià)格翻了兩番。

China’s durian imports rose 15 percent last year to nearly 350,000 tonnes worth $510 million, according to the United Nations’ trade database. Nearly 40 percent was from Thailand, the world’s top producer and exporter.

根據(jù)聯(lián)合國(guó)的貿(mào)易數(shù)據(jù)，去年中國(guó)的榴蓮進(jìn)口量增長(zhǎng)了15%，達(dá)到近35萬(wàn)噸，價(jià)值5.1億美元(約合35億元人民幣)，其中近40%來自泰國(guó)——世界最大的榴蓮生產(chǎn)國(guó)和出口國(guó)。

Malaysia accounted for less than 1 percent, but expects sales to China to jump to 22,061 tonnes by 2030 from this year’s likely 14,600 tonnes, as trade is widened to include whole fruit from the current restriction to durian pulp and paste.

榴蓮進(jìn)口總量中來自馬來西亞的不到1%。但目前馬來西亞出口中國(guó)的僅限榴蓮果肉和果醬，未來可能出口整果，預(yù)計(jì)到2030年，馬來西亞對(duì)中國(guó)的出口量將從今年的14600噸左右增加到22061噸。

棕櫚油和房地產(chǎn)行業(yè)巨頭紛紛進(jìn)軍榴蓮種植業(yè)

Lim, the consultant, said palm oil giant IOI Corp and property-to-resorts conglomerate Berjaya Corp have approached him about making ventures into durian farming.

林欽奇說，馬來西亞棕櫚油巨頭凱業(yè)集團(tuán)和房地產(chǎn)巨頭成功集團(tuán)都在向其咨詢有關(guān)進(jìn)軍榴蓮種植業(yè)的問題。

State-owned palm oil company Felda said the agricultural ministry began planting durian on its land this year. PLS Plantations last month said it will buy a $5 million stake in a durian exporter.

馬來西亞國(guó)有棕櫚油企業(yè)費(fèi)爾達(dá)公司稱，今年農(nóng)業(yè)部已開始在其土地上種植榴蓮，林蓬岸種植公司上月稱，該公司計(jì)劃出資500萬(wàn)美元購(gòu)買一家榴蓮出口商的股份。

M7 Plantation Bhd, a private company established last year, is developing a 10,000-acre durian estate in Gua Musang, home to the Musang King in the eastern state of Kelantan, and is selling durian trees for 5,000 ringgit each.

去年成立的私營(yíng)公司M7種植公司正在東部吉蘭丹州話望生的“貓山王”榴蓮原產(chǎn)地開發(fā)一個(gè)占地1萬(wàn)英畝(約合4047公頃)的榴蓮種植園，并以每棵5000林吉特(約合8292元人民幣)的價(jià)格出售榴蓮樹。

“We founded the company because we see potential in the industry, the primary target being China,” Chief Executive Ng Lee Chin said, adding that most of her buyers were from China.

該公司首席執(zhí)行官吳麗珍(音)說：“我們成立這家公司是因?yàn)槲覀兛吹搅诉@個(gè)產(chǎn)業(yè)的潛力，我們的首要目標(biāo)就是中國(guó)。”她補(bǔ)充說，大多數(shù)買家都來自中國(guó)。

農(nóng)業(yè)“黃金”

“Planting durians is not just a hobby today as durians are considered as ‘gold’ in the agriculture industry,” the agriculture department said in e-mailed comments to Reuters.

馬來西亞農(nóng)業(yè)部在發(fā)給路透社的一封郵件中評(píng)論說：“如今種植榴蓮已不僅僅是一種愛好，因?yàn)榱裆彵灰暈檗r(nóng)業(yè)的‘黃金’。”

Even Malaysia’s prime minister, Mahathir Mohamad, has seized upon it. “I feel it is time that we produce durians on a large-scale and systematic manner,” he has said.

連馬來西亞總理馬哈蒂爾·穆罕默德也看到了這一商機(jī)。他說：“我覺得是時(shí)候大規(guī)模有系統(tǒng)地種植榴蓮了。”

Malaysia’s durian plantations covered 72,000 hectares last year but the area under cultivation is growing, the department said, and in some areas plantations growing palm oil are switching to durian because it is seen as more lucrative.

馬來西亞農(nóng)業(yè)部表示，馬來西亞榴蓮種植面積去年達(dá)到7.2萬(wàn)公頃，而且還在增加。在一些地區(qū)，棕櫚油種植園也開始改種榴蓮，因?yàn)槔麧?rùn)更豐厚。

In March, Malaysia’s then-agriculture minister was quoted as saying one hectare of Musang King could yield nearly nine times more revenue than a hectare of palm plantation.

今年3月，媒體援引時(shí)任馬來西亞農(nóng)業(yè)部長(zhǎng)的話說，1公頃貓山王榴蓮的產(chǎn)值是1公頃油棕產(chǎn)值的近9倍。

In Sabah state, some of the land for durian farming will come from converting palm estates, its agriculture ministry said, adding it was planning expansion over 5,000 hectares.

馬來西亞農(nóng)業(yè)部稱，沙巴州一些原本用于種植油棕的土地將改種榴蓮，并計(jì)劃將榴蓮種植面積擴(kuò)大到5000公頃以上。