美麗中國第六集 潮汐更迭Tides of Change

[00:06.20]NARRATOR: From the eastern end of the Great Wall, [00:09.48] [00:09.60]China's coast spans 14,500 kilometres [00:14.36] [00:14.48]and more than 5,000 years of history. [00:17.40] [00:20.16]This is the area which shows the greatest contrast [00:22.72] [00:22.80]between China's past and its future. [00:26.32] [00:37.48]Today China's eastern seaboard [00:40.00] [00:40.08]is home to 700 million people, [00:42.76] [00:43.40]packed into some of the most dazzling hi-tech cities on earth. [00:47.40] [00:51.20]Yet these crowded shores remain hugely important for a wealth of wildlife. [00:55.80] [01:02.48]Now, as ancient traditions mingle with new aspirations, [01:07.76] [01:07.84]is there any room at all for wildlife on China's crowded shores? [01:13.16] [01:52.76]In northern China's Zhalong Nature Reserve, [01:56.20] [01:56.28]a pair of red-crowned cranes have staked out their nesting territory [02:00.88] [02:00.96]in the stubble of a commercially managed reed bed. [02:04.20] [02:07.08]For centuries, cranes have been revered in China [02:09.72] [02:09.80]as symbols of longevity. [02:12.40] [02:12.48]Their statues were placed next to the Emperor's throne. [02:15.96] [02:23.40]The cranes have cause to celebrate. [02:26.00] [02:27.52]This chick is a sign of hope in difficult times. [02:31.28] [02:32.56]Red-crowned cranes are one of the world's most endangered species. [02:36.64] [02:38.52]Over the last century, [02:40.28] [02:40.36]China has lost nearly half of its coastal wetlands [02:44.24] [02:44.32]and most of what remains is managed for the benefit of people, not wildlife. [02:49.16] [02:51.72]A few months from now, [02:53.04] [02:53.12]this chick and its parents will face a long migration south [02:56.96] [02:57.04]to escape the harsh northern winter. [02:59.56] [03:04.80]Their route will take them along a coast [03:06.84] [03:06.92]which has been greatly affected by human activity. [03:10.68] [03:13.08]Along their journey, the cranes will be joined [03:15.36] [03:15.44]by many thousands of other migrating birds. [03:18.28] [03:21.32]All heading south across the Bohai Gulf [03:24.92] [03:25.00]and along the shores of the Yellow and East China Seas, [03:28.92] [03:29.00]some even reaching as far as the South China Sea [03:32.52] [03:32.60]in search of a safe winter haven. [03:35.16] [03:40.80]The annual bird migration has been going on for thousands of years. [03:46.04] [03:46.12]Here at Mount Jinping on China's northeast coast, [03:49.56] [03:49.68]there is surprising evidence [03:51.16] [03:51.24]that people have lived here almost as long. [03:54.20] [04:02.28]Seven thousand years ago, [04:03.88] [04:03.96]members of the Shao Hao tribe carved magical symbols [04:08.12] [04:08.20]representing significant elements of their daily lives. [04:11.64] [04:17.80]The petroglyphs show wheat sheaves connected by lines to human figures, [04:22.92] [04:23.00]the first known recordings of cultivation in China. [04:26.24] [04:34.32]Familiar with the spectacle of yearly bird migrations, [04:38.20] [04:38.28]the Shao Hao people chose a symbol of a bird as their totem. [04:42.48] [04:47.60]Mount Jinping lies near the Shandong peninsula, [04:51.00] [04:51.08]an important wintering site for migrant birds, [04:54.68] [04:54.76]and even today there are still communities along this coastline [04:58.60] [04:58.68]who retain a special affinity with their local birdlife. [05:02.20] [05:11.68]Yandun Jiao village, [05:13.08] [05:13.16]on the north-eastern shore of the peninsula, [05:15.44] [05:15.56]is famous for its traditional seaweed-thatched cottages. [05:19.08] [05:25.16]On a chilly morning in early spring, [05:27.52] [05:27.60]Mr and Mrs Qu venture out at first light [05:30.92] [05:31.00]armed with the traditional seaside accessories of bucket and spade. [05:35.72] [05:46.16]As the Qus head down into the harbour, [05:48.68] [05:48.76]a flock of whooper swans, [05:50.28] [05:50.36]known affectionately here as "winter angels", [05:53.52] [05:53.60]are waking out in the bay. [05:55.64] [06:02.44]The Qus and their neighbours search for tube holes [06:05.08] [06:05.16]in the mud at low tide, [06:07.36] [06:07.44]the sign of cockles and razor shells hidden deep below. [06:10.96] [06:21.80]While gathering shellfish is a popular pastime, [06:25.48] [06:25.60]the main business of Yandun Jiao happens further out at sea. [06:29.68] [06:38.04]As the boats set out, with Mr Qu on board, [06:41.48] [06:41.56]the swans set a parallel course. [06:44.20] [07:11.96]The whole of the bay is a gigantic seaweed farm. [07:15.40] [07:16.64]The men work all day cleaning and tending the kelp fronds [07:20.04] [07:20.12]that are grown on ropes linked to a vast armada of buoys. [07:23.80] [07:29.68]The swans eat native seaweeds growing on the surface ropes [07:33.56] [07:33.64]rather than the valuable crop of kelp, [07:36.24] [07:36.32]so they do no harm to the commercial operation. [07:39.36] [07:52.76]In the afternoon, as the wind picks up out at sea, [07:56.52] [07:56.64]the workers and swans return to shore. [07:59.28] [08:12.52]While the culture of seeking balance with nature [08:14.96] [08:15.08]goes back a long way in China, [08:17.52] [08:17.60]it is rare to see such harmonious relationships on China's crowded coast. [08:22.28] [08:32.96]As evening draws on, [08:34.64] [08:34.72]the Qu family prepare their evening meal of cockles, [08:38.88] [08:38.96]steamed bread and seaweed. [08:41.16] [08:46.12](KIDS CHATTERING) [08:48.40] [08:49.48]Leftovers are given to the village children to feed the swans. [08:53.60] [08:53.68]It's fun for the kids and provides [08:55.48] [08:55.56]an extra energy boost for the birds as they face another cold night. [09:00.04] [09:05.12]The swans have been using this sheltered bay [09:07.84] [09:07.92]at as a winter refuge for many generations. [09:10.72] [09:15.36]As long as the tradition of respect for nature persists, [09:19.44] [09:19.52]this remarkable association between the Yandun Jiao community [09:23.76] [09:23.84]and their winter angels looks set to continue. [09:27.76] [09:33.60]Out in the Bohai Gulf, northeast of the swan village, [09:37.48] [09:37.56]a small rocky island provides a quiet resting spot for migrating birds. [09:42.40] [09:53.88]But Shedao Island has hidden dangers. [09:57.56] [10:00.32]Pallas' pit vipers trapped here 6,000 years ago by rising sea levels [10:05.92] [10:06.00]have evolved a sinister lifestyle. [10:08.36] [10:12.08]For 10 months of the year [10:13.76] [10:13.84]there is nothing substantial to eat on the island, [10:16.68] [10:16.76]so the reptiles conserve their energy by barely moving at all. [10:21.12] [10:24.76](BIRDS CAWING) [10:26.96] [10:27.04]As the sun warms their rocky home, [10:29.68] [10:29.76]the snakes climb up into the bushes and trees. [10:32.76] [10:34.00]But they aren't here to sunbathe. [10:36.44] [10:42.04]More and more vipers appear [10:43.52] [10:43.60]until virtually every perch where a bird might land [10:47.44] [10:47.52]has been booby-trapped. [10:49.40] [10:51.72]Then the waiting game begins. [10:54.00] [10:56.72]The serpents' camouflage is remarkable, [11:00.32] [11:00.44]but so are the birds' reactions, [11:03.00] [11:03.08]as this high-speed shot reveals. [11:05.36] [11:15.08]The birds will only stay on the island for a couple of weeks. [11:18.52] [11:18.60]But although the snakes have been starving for months, [11:21.68] [11:21.76]their only hope of bagging a meal is to be patient [11:25.80] [11:25.88]and sit tight. [11:27.36] [11:46.84]The slightest miscalculation [11:48.72] [11:48.80]and the snake is left with a mouthful of feathers. [11:51.80] [11:57.28]The dropped meal is tracked down mainly by smell, [12:00.44] [12:00.52]the viper using its forked tongue [12:02.76] [12:02.84]to taste the air until it is close enough to see its quarry. [12:06.52] [12:10.36]The final challenge is to swallow a meal that's twice the size of its head. [12:15.00] [12:15.76]It does so by dislocating its jaws and positioning its prey [12:20.68] [12:20.80]so the beak is pointing backwards. [12:23.60] [12:30.88]For the reptiles, this time of plenty is all too brief. [12:34.16] [12:34.24]In a couple of weeks, the migration will be over [12:36.44] [12:36.56]and the birds will have moved on. [12:39.32] [12:39.40]This could be the snake's last meal for six months. [12:43.40] [12:46.60]But it isn't just islands [12:48.08] [12:48.16]that experience cycles of feast and famine. [12:51.32] [12:51.40]The sea, too, has its seasons, [12:53.60] [12:53.68]a fact well known to fishing communities along the neighbouring coasts. [12:58.04] [13:04.52]In Chuwang harbour, [13:06.08] [13:06.16]the start of a new fishing season provides the excuse for a massive party. [13:10.56] [13:14.88]But for boat owner Mr Zhao, [13:16.60] [13:16.68]it's a day of prayer as well as celebration. [13:19.60] [13:22.56]Zhao hopes that by presenting gifts and showing respect to the sea goddess, [13:27.56] [13:27.68]he can help ensure a prosperous and safe year ahead [13:30.76] [13:30.84]for him and his crew. [13:32.64] [13:43.48]Meanwhile, drums, firecrackers and fireworks reflect the ancient belief [13:48.28] [13:48.36]that loud noises will frighten off dangerous sea devils and bad fortune. [13:53.36] [14:01.68]Occupying centre stage is a representation of the sea dragon, [14:06.88] [14:06.96]mythical ruler of water and weather. [14:09.52] [14:40.08]In the calm of the evening, [14:41.56] [14:41.64]Mr Zhao and his family light paper boat lanterns. [14:44.84] [14:51.04]Each flickering flame carries a wish to the sea goddess, [14:55.08] [14:55.16]a tradition passed on from parents to children over countless generations. [14:59.68] [15:15.80]On China's crowded coasts, [15:17.96] [15:18.04]fishermen need to be extremely resourceful. [15:21.72] [15:21.84]Hauling in the nets is hard work, [15:24.68] [15:24.76]and so far there's not a fish in sight. [15:27.72] [15:31.52]Only jellyfish. [15:33.16] [15:37.44]Each year, millions of jellyfish [15:39.24] [15:39.32]are carried south with the currents in the Bohai Gulf. [15:43.08] [15:44.32]The ecological story behind this event is complex, [15:48.00] [15:48.12]but by no means unique to China. [15:50.40] [15:52.28]Jellyfish are fast-breeding plankton feeders. [15:55.28] [15:56.80]In recent years, human sewage and fertilisers from intensive farming [16:01.04] [16:01.12]have increased plankton blooms in the Gulf, [16:04.20] [16:04.28]providing extra jellyfish food. [16:06.56] [16:07.84]While over-fishing has reduced their enemies and competitors. [16:11.68] [16:16.76]It's a phenomenon that has become increasingly widespread [16:20.52] [16:20.64]across the world's seas. [16:22.40] [16:23.96]However, what is seen elsewhere as a problem, [16:27.08] [16:27.16]in China is perceived as an opportunity. [16:30.12] [16:41.32]Back on shore, [16:42.64] [16:42.72]mule carts transport the jellyfish to nearby warehouses [16:46.68] [16:46.76]where they will be processed and sold as food all over China. [16:50.92] [17:07.84]Four generations tuck into a bowl of sliced jellyfish, [17:11.52] [17:12.56]the recipe for a long and healthy life. [17:15.28] [17:28.80]Leaving the Bohai Gulf behind, [17:31.48] [17:31.56]migrating cranes, [17:33.08] [17:33.16]spoonbills and ducks are joined by other birds, [17:36.68] [17:36.80]all heading south in search of a safe winter haven. [17:40.92] [17:50.96]The birds' migration route follows the coast of the Yellow Sea [17:54.72] [17:54.80]down into Jiangsu Province, [17:57.84] [17:57.92]a fertile agricultural landscape [18:00.20] [18:00.32]with some of the last remaining salt marshes in China. [18:03.80] [18:11.84]At Dafeng, [18:12.96] [18:13.08]a small salt marsh reserve is home to an animal which is lucky to be alive. [18:17.64] [18:20.08]The Chinese see these Milu as a curious composite animal, [18:24.32] [18:24.40]with a horse's head, [18:26.32] [18:26.40]cow's feet, [18:27.96] [18:28.04]a tail like a donkey [18:30.04] [18:30.12]and backwards-facing antlers. [18:32.24] [18:36.12]In the West, we know it as Pre David's Deer, [18:39.48] [18:39.56]after the first European to describe it. [18:42.28] [18:48.08]During the rut, [18:49.28] [18:49.40]stags decorate themselves with garlands of vegetation [18:53.16] [18:53.28]collected in their antlers. [18:55.40] [19:03.92]Fierce battles decide mating rights. [19:07.44] [19:07.52]The females still have last year's fawns in tow. [19:10.68] [19:14.84]They haven't been weaned by the time of the rut [19:17.40] [19:17.48]and band together in large crches, [19:20.36] [19:20.44]only returning to their mothers to feed. [19:23.68] [19:23.76]This unique behaviour helps to keep them clear of the aggressive males. [19:28.12] [19:34.56]Today, there are just 2,500 Milu in China, [19:38.48] [19:40.44]but it is remarkable that there are any at all. [19:43.56] [19:45.80]In the early 1900s Milu became extinct in the wild, [19:49.68] [19:50.32]but luckily, some of the Imperial herd had been sent as a gift to Europe. [19:54.76] [19:55.92]Those at Woburn Abbey, in England, prospered. [19:58.96] [19:59.04]And in the early 1980s, 40 of the deer were returned to their homeland [20:03.88] [20:04.00]where they continue to thrive. [20:06.20] [20:24.04]The migrating cranes have so far travelled [20:26.48] [20:26.60]over 2,000 kilometres southwards along the coast. [20:30.12] [20:38.64]Passing the Milu Deer Reserve at Dafeng, [20:41.64] [20:41.72]they are approaching another salt marsh [20:44.00] [20:44.08]which will provide the perfect conditions for them to spend the winter. [20:48.40] [20:58.84]This is Yancheng, the largest coastal wetland in China, [21:03.56] [21:03.64]visited by an estimated three million birds each year. [21:07.08] [21:07.60](SQUAWKING) [21:09.24] [21:11.92]Crane chicks that were only born seven months ago [21:15.28] [21:15.36]have now completed the first leg of a round trip [21:18.68] [21:18.76]which they will repeat every year. [21:21.12] [21:22.92]The hardy cranes can cope with winter temperatures [21:25.60] [21:25.68]which may drop below freezing. [21:27.80] [21:30.80]However, other migrating birds, like the endangered black-faced spoonbill, [21:35.20] [21:35.28]are less cold-tolerant [21:37.88] [21:37.96]and will continue even further south in search of warmer climes. [21:41.92] [21:47.80](SQUAWKING) [21:49.32] [21:58.56]At this point, many of the migrating bird flocks [22:01.40] [22:01.48]are barely halfway along their southward journey. [22:05.16] [22:05.28]Ahead of them lies a new challenge, [22:08.12] [22:08.20]China's greatest river, the Yangtze, [22:11.20] [22:11.28]and the venue for a very different kind of migration. [22:14.68] [22:21.08]Each year, millions of tons of cargo travel up and down the river, [22:25.08] [22:25.16]making this one of the busiest waterways in the world. [22:28.60] [22:39.36]These are Chinese mitten crabs, [22:41.56] [22:41.68]named for their strange hairy claws. [22:44.20] [22:51.36]They may migrate as much as 1,500 kilometres [22:54.80] [22:54.88]from tributaries and lakes to the river mouth, [22:57.88] [22:57.96]where they gather to breed. [23:00.16] [23:07.08]A similar migration is made by the giant Yangtze sturgeon, [23:10.84] [23:10.92]which can reach four metres long and weigh half a ton. [23:15.04] [23:15.12]In recent years, its numbers have declined dramatically [23:18.64] [23:18.72]as its migration is impeded by ever more river dams. [23:23.04] [23:26.32]But it isn't just animals like the sturgeon that are in trouble, [23:30.28] [23:30.36]the entire Yangtze River ecosystem is being poisoned. [23:33.64] [23:37.00]In spite of being the subject of an ambitious clean-up plan, [23:40.76] [23:40.92]today the river is reckoned to be the biggest [23:43.36] [23:43.48]single source of pollution entering the Pacific Ocean. [23:47.32] [23:56.04]Situated right at the mouth of its estuary, [23:58.96] [23:59.04]Chongming Island provides a vital resting and feeding spot [24:02.56] [24:02.64]for migrating shorebirds, [24:05.08] [24:05.20]and a place which offers welcome evidence [24:07.80] [24:07.88]of changing attitudes towards the Yangtze's beleaguered wildlife. [24:11.84] [24:16.88]For centuries these coastal mudflats have attracted hunters, [24:20.12] [24:20.20]like Mr Jin, [24:21.88] [24:21.96]who have honed their trapping skills to perfection [24:24.96] [24:25.04]to put rare birds on the tables of Shanghai's elite. [24:28.80] [24:42.32]For 40 years Mr Jin has used a net, [24:45.68] [24:45.76]simple decoy birds and a bamboo whistle [24:48.92] [24:49.00]to lure passing birds towards his nets. [24:52.16] [24:52.24](WHISTLING) [24:53.96] [25:07.44]It takes both patience and consummate skill. [25:11.04] [25:34.40]But all is not as it seems. [25:37.28] [25:37.36]Mr Jin, like many of the best conservationists, [25:41.60] [25:41.68]is poacher turned gamekeeper, [25:44.72] [25:44.80]using his hunting skills to benefit his old quarry. [25:48.40] [25:53.88]The staff here at Dongtan Bird Reserve [25:56.88] [25:56.96]will measure, ring and weigh the trapped birds [26:00.12] [26:00.20]before releasing them unharmed. [26:02.56] [26:03.96]The information gathered by Mr Jin and his colleagues [26:07.16] [26:07.24]helps to protect over 200 different species of birds [26:10.92] [26:11.00]which visit the island each year. [26:13.36] [26:21.84]Just south of Chongming Island [26:24.28] [26:24.40]lies China's largest coastal city, Shanghai. [26:28.72] [26:39.96]Situated on a major migration route for birds as well as river life, [26:44.20] [26:45.40]Shanghai is now preparing for an even bigger invasion. [26:48.84] [26:51.24]Barges loaded with building materials constantly arrive in the city's docks, [26:56.16] [26:56.88]feeding one of the greatest construction booms in the world. [27:00.64] [27:03.16]Last year, half the world's concrete was poured into China's cities, [27:07.44] [27:08.32]all in preparation for the biggest mass migration of people [27:12.52] [27:12.60]in the history of the world. [27:14.76] [27:21.00]In the next 25 years, well over 300 million people [27:25.28] [27:25.36]are predicted to move from rural China into cities like Shanghai. [27:30.28] [27:33.00]The migration of people from country to city [27:36.24] [27:36.32]is being mirrored around the world, and by 2010 [27:40.40] [27:40.48]over half of the world's population will be urban dwellers. [27:44.52] [27:50.56]As night falls, Shanghai reveals its true colours. [27:54.64] [28:17.08]China's fastest-growing financial centre [28:20.44] [28:20.52]is in the midst of a massive boom. [28:23.64] [28:36.24]With an estimated population of more than 20 million, [28:40.84] [28:40.96]Shanghai is officially China's largest [28:43.96] [28:44.04]and certainly its most dazzling city. [28:46.88] [28:50.60]But there is an environmental cost. [28:53.68] [28:53.76]Shanghai residents now use two and a half times more power per head [28:58.60] [28:58.72]than their rural cousins. [29:00.76] [29:09.04]The city's seemingly insatiable energy demands [29:12.12] [29:12.20]currently require the output of 17 power stations. [29:16.72] [29:24.40]South of Shanghai the city lights gradually fade [29:28.60] [29:28.68]as we enter an ancient world. [29:31.36] [29:41.52]This is Fujian Province, [29:44.60] [29:44.68]a rugged terrain [29:46.28] [29:46.36]guarded by sheer granite mountains which have helped to forge and preserve [29:51.12] [29:51.20]some of China's most ancient sites and traditional cultures. [29:55.20] [29:56.84]Towering above the coast, the 1,400-metre-high Taimu Mountains [30:02.08] [30:02.16]are known to the Chinese as "Fairyland on the Sea". [30:06.20] [30:14.44]Moist sea breezes condense on the cool mountaintops [30:18.76] [30:18.84]and combine with well-drained acid soils [30:21.92] [30:22.00]to produce the perfect growing conditions [30:24.76] [30:24.84]for acid-loving plants like wild azaleas. [30:28.20] [30:33.04]It's also home to camellias, including the most famous of all, [30:38.32] [30:38.40]the tea plant. [30:39.92] [30:42.36]Similar growing conditions all along the Fujian coast [30:45.72] [30:45.84]make this the treasure chest for China's tea, [30:49.44] [30:49.56]the heart of an industry dating back almost 4,000 years. [30:53.96] [30:57.96]One of the most traditional tea-growing cultures in the area [31:01.64] [31:01.76]is that of the Kejia people. [31:03.88] [31:08.44]Every morning, goats are let loose among the tea terraces, [31:13.16] [31:13.24]a centuries-old tradition. [31:15.28] [31:16.08]This might seem surprising given goats' reputation [31:18.68] [31:18.76]for eating anything green, [31:20.84] [31:21.52]but tea isn't as defenceless as it looks. [31:25.40] [31:27.28]Tea leaves are loaded with bitter chemicals [31:30.16] [31:30.24]designed to repel browsing animals. [31:32.88] [31:33.88]It works on the goats, [31:35.92] [31:36.00]who leave the tea untouched and instead eat up the weeds, [31:40.40] [31:40.48]fertilising the tea plants with their droppings. [31:43.76] [31:46.72]The surprise is that we humans [31:48.56] [31:48.64]should find the same bitter chemical cocktail [31:51.96] [31:52.04]utterly irresistible. [31:53.84] [31:56.44]Among the Kejia people, tea-growing is a family business. [32:00.88] [32:01.36]Women do the picking, while the men process and pack it. [32:05.20] [32:08.08]Mrs Zhang belongs to a Kejia family [32:10.84] [32:10.92]that has lived and worked for generations [32:13.12] [32:13.20]among these same tea terraces. [32:15.40] [32:25.28]The finest tea needs to be gathered quickly in warm sunshine [32:29.40] [32:29.48]as this brings out the flavour-enhancing oils inside the leaves. [32:33.48] [32:46.52]This sustainable industry has protected one of China's finest landscapes [32:51.60] [32:51.68]and one of its most traditional cultures. [32:54.40] [33:04.88]At the end of the morning's picking, [33:07.24] [33:07.36]Mrs Zhang returns home to drop off her tea ready for processing. [33:12.04] [33:39.68]This fort-like design has survived from a time [33:43.20] [33:43.32]when the Kejia needed to protect themselves [33:46.04] [33:46.12]against hostile local tribes. [33:48.28] [33:53.00]Each house has three or four levels [33:55.80] [33:55.88]designed to accommodate 50 to 250 people. [33:59.76] [34:02.28]The ground floor houses the kitchens and animal stock [34:05.64] [34:05.72]with access to a well for water. [34:08.00] [34:10.80]The first floor rooms are used for storage [34:13.44] [34:13.52]and the upper floors are bedrooms. [34:15.88] [34:21.00]Some of these remarkable buildings are 800 years old [34:25.68] [34:25.76]and have survived earthquakes and typhoons. [34:29.20] [34:42.24]Once enough tea has been gathered in, the processing begins. [34:46.32] [34:48.04]Turning green leaves into saleable tea [34:50.28] [34:50.36]involves at least eight different stages, [34:53.20] [34:53.28]including drying, bruising, sifting, squeezing and twisting, [34:58.72] [34:58.80]before the finished product is finally ready for packing. [35:02.32] [35:12.60]The Zhang's village produces "little black dragon", [35:15.64] [35:15.72]or oolong tea, [35:17.76] [35:17.84]so called because of the way its twisted leaves unfurl [35:21.08] [35:21.16]when water is poured over them. [35:23.04] [35:24.84]Tea plays a vital part in Kejia life, [35:27.88] [35:27.96]not only as a source of income, but also as a way to welcome visitors [35:32.68] [35:32.76]and bring people together. [35:34.92] [35:35.68]In traditional Chinese life, [35:37.88] [35:37.96]even the simplest cup of tea is poured with an intricate amount of ritual. [35:42.80] [35:50.60]In the past, [35:52.20] [35:52.28]the Kejia people's other main income came from transporting goods like tea [35:57.28] [35:57.40]across the treacherous topography of mountains and river estuaries. [36:01.52] [36:09.16]Their route was suddenly made easier when, in 1059, [36:13.64] [36:13.72]this remarkable bridge was built. [36:16.00] [36:19.16]Made from massive 10-ton slabs of granite, [36:22.60] [36:22.72]it is one of China's lesser-known architectural gems. [36:26.48] [36:28.72]Luoyang Bridge has withstood earthquakes and tempestuous tides. [36:33.64] [36:45.28]Known as "10,000 ships launching", [36:48.72] [36:48.80]the bridge's 46 piers [36:50.60] [36:50.68]have withstood time and tide for almost a millennium. [36:54.60] [36:57.96]According to folklore, [36:59.48] [36:59.56]its success is due to a far-sighted piece of bio-engineering. [37:03.40] [37:04.48]Oysters were seeded on the piers [37:06.52] [37:06.64]and ever since, their concretions have helped cement [37:10.24] [37:10.36]the granite blocks together. [37:12.48] [37:19.20]Today, oysters are still cultivated here [37:22.44] [37:22.52]in the traditional way by Hui'an women. [37:25.64] [37:27.56]Stones are stood in the mudflats below the bridge [37:30.60] [37:30.68]to encourage the oysters to grow. [37:32.84] [38:15.20]Luoyang Bridge is now mainly used by locals [38:18.80] [38:18.88]carrying goods across the estuary towards the coastal ports. [38:22.80] [38:29.08]For more than 2,000 years, [38:31.36] [38:31.48]coastal trade in China has depended [38:33.64] [38:33.72]on a remarkable and pioneering type of ship, [38:36.32] [38:37.32]known to us as the junk. [38:40.04] [38:40.12](MEN SINGING) [38:41.84] [38:45.68]This working vessel follows a general design [38:48.12] [38:48.20]that's been in use in Fujian for at least 600 years. [38:52.32] [38:53.60]Its bows take the form of a beak, with two large painted eyes [38:57.80] [38:58.88]evoking the traditional seafarers' belief [39:01.68] [39:01.76]that the bird's image would help sailors return safely, [39:04.68] [39:05.56]like the migrants that return each spring and autumn. [39:09.00] [39:15.36]Tea and other goods were stored in strong bulkheads, [39:18.72] [39:18.80]each waterproofed and separated from the next to minimise flood damage. [39:23.36] [39:27.04]This innovation, introduced to keep precious tea cargos dry, [39:31.48] [39:31.56]spurred on the improvement of not only Chinese boats, [39:35.24] [39:35.32]but Western ones, too. [39:37.16] [39:41.16]The distinctive rigging of the junk's sails [39:43.68] [39:43.76]allows easy handling in bad weather, [39:46.56] [39:46.64]essential along this storm-battered coast. [39:49.44] [39:53.56]Each year from July to November, up to a dozen typhoons, [39:58.40] [39:58.52]a corruption of the Chinese word for "great wind", [40:01.96] [40:02.04]head northwest towards China. [40:04.72] [40:08.72]Typhoons are becoming more frequent as sea temperatures rise, [40:12.92] [40:13.00]aided by a global increase in greenhouse gases, [40:16.08] [40:16.16]such as carbon dioxide. [40:18.28] [40:23.76]But satellite pictures have revealed a surprising twist. [40:27.36] [40:27.96]It seems that typhoons can pull deep, nutrient-rich seawater [40:32.80] [40:32.88]up to the surface causing plankton blooms, [40:36.80] [40:36.88]which in turn soak up large quantities of carbon dioxide. [40:42.20] [40:52.12]When a typhoon strikes, [40:54.40] [40:54.52]one of the best places to be is Hong Kong harbour [40:58.76] [40:58.84]with its sheltered anchorage. [41:01.12] [41:12.68]A centre of international trade, [41:15.32] [41:15.40]the city is famous for its jumble of skyscrapers [41:18.36] [41:18.44]and its bustling commercial centre. [41:20.88] [41:23.32]But there's a side to Hong Kong that's less well known. [41:27.08] [41:33.68]Behind the urban sprawl [41:35.72] [41:35.80]lies a swathe of wetlands [41:38.08] [41:38.16]which include the Mai Po Nature Reserve. [41:41.12] [41:42.40]Managed principally for the benefit of migrating birds, [41:46.08] [41:46.16]the reserve maintains a series of traditional prawn farms, [41:50.08] [41:50.16]known as gei wais, [41:52.20] [41:52.32]and their adjoining mangroves and mudflats. [41:55.12] [41:59.44]Every two weeks from November to March, [42:01.48] [42:01.56]one of the gei wais is drained by opening up the sluice gates. [42:05.44] [42:18.24]As the water level falls, birds begin to gather. [42:21.48] [42:22.48]Herons, egrets and cormorants [42:25.68] [42:25.76]mingle with a far rarer visitor, [42:27.96] [42:30.44]the black-faced spoonbill. [42:32.48] [42:36.44]These endangered migrants [42:37.92] [42:38.00]have travelled the length of the Chinese coastline [42:41.12] [42:41.20]from Northern China and Korea. [42:44.40] [42:44.48]Mai Po marks the end of a 2,000 kilometre journey [42:48.80] [42:48.88]during which the birds may have lost up to a third of their body weight. [42:53.04] [42:53.96]Four hundred black-faced spoonbills, [42:56.56] [42:56.64]a quarter of the world's population, [42:59.68] [42:59.76]pass the winter here. [43:01.68] [43:06.08]At low water, [43:07.60] [43:07.68]trapped shrimps and fish become easy prey, [43:10.68] [43:11.76]a life saver for these endangered birds. [43:14.96] [43:30.40]The Mai Po marshes are part of the Pearl River estuary, [43:33.80] [43:34.92]whose muddy shores abound with crabs, worms and mud-skippers. [43:39.84] [43:56.20]Exposed at low tide, [43:58.48] [43:58.56]this smorgasbord of mud-life attracts both waders [44:01.92] [44:02.00]and the gei wai birds. [44:03.88] [44:20.40]Here on the mudflats of Inner Deep Bay, [44:23.08] [44:23.16]each kind of bird has its own specific feeding zone [44:26.84] [44:26.92]defined by the depth of the water, [44:29.56] [44:29.64]the length of its beak and its feeding technique. [44:33.08] [44:42.96]Once refuelled, [44:44.68] [44:44.76]they revel in synchronised aerial displays. [44:48.12] [45:15.12]More than any other place on China's coastline, [45:18.40] [45:18.48]Inner Deep Bay demonstrates that, with help, [45:21.60] [45:21.68]resilient nature can still thrive, [45:24.56] [45:24.64]even when boxed in [45:26.40] [45:26.48]and overshadowed by towering cities like Shenzhen. [45:30.56] [45:37.92]Another successful example of man's intervention [45:40.60] [45:40.68]on behalf of nature [45:42.36] [45:42.44]can be glimpsed in the waters around Lantau Island. [45:46.20] [45:51.00]While egrets make the most of an easy meal, [45:54.12] [45:54.20]other creatures have their eye on the fishermen's catch. [45:57.72] [46:07.72]Chinese white dolphins are estuary specialists. [46:11.76] [46:17.00]Found widely in the Indian and Pacific Ocean, [46:20.60] [46:20.68]this species is rare in China. [46:22.88] [46:24.52]The young are born dark grey and become spotted as adolescents, [46:29.68] [46:31.48]finally turning creamy white as adults, [46:34.24] [46:35.52]though on some occasions they may blush a delicate shade of pink. [46:39.28] [46:53.80]Three groups of dolphins live close to Lantau Island. [46:57.64] [46:57.72]As the tide comes in, they move with it to feed on small fish or squid [47:02.96] [47:03.04]which travel with the currents, [47:05.56] [47:05.64]using echolocation to see their prey through the murky water. [47:09.80] [47:13.76]They also use sound to communicate. [47:16.28] [47:18.88]But they face a deafening problem. [47:21.32] [47:21.72](LOUD WHIRRING) [47:23.40] [47:27.44]The Pearl Estuary has become one of the busiest shipping channels in China, [47:32.20] [47:32.32]and the dolphins are constantly bombarded with sound. [47:35.44] [47:41.84]New research suggests that they may now pack more information [47:45.28] [47:45.36]into shorter calls in a bid to be heard. [47:48.88] [47:50.96]Local conservationists have now set up a protected zone near Lantau Island. [47:55.80] [47:57.00]So, for now, China's white dolphins are holding on. [48:00.36] [48:09.08]South of Hong Kong lies the South China Sea, [48:12.68] [48:12.80]studded with more than 200 islands and reefs. [48:16.20] [48:18.68]Potential reserves of fish, oil and gas [48:21.88] [48:21.96]make each one strategic, [48:24.32] [48:24.40]and the whole region has become a political hot spot [48:27.64] [48:27.72]as territorial disputes simmer between its many neighbouring countries. [48:32.40] [48:37.16]The waters themselves are low in nutrients [48:39.60] [48:39.68]and would be poor in life [48:41.48] [48:41.56]if it wasn't for the other resource that's here in abundance. [48:45.68] [48:46.96]Sunlight. [48:48.28] [48:52.52]In the shallows of the coral atolls, [48:54.48] [48:54.56]small jellyfish point their tentacles towards the sun. [48:58.04] [48:59.32]Like many animals here, [49:01.32] [49:01.40]they depend on a close partnership with microscopic algae, [49:05.48] [49:05.56]which turn solar power into food. [49:08.92] [49:10.08]The most famous of these relationships is the reef-forming corals, [49:15.00] [49:15.08]which provide the foundation of the sea's most dazzling ecosystem. [49:19.32] [49:24.40]Their branches provide shelter [49:26.04] [49:26.12]for a wealth of small and vulnerable creatures, [49:29.04] [49:29.12]many of them beautifully camouflaged. [49:31.68] [49:35.00]But the ultimate master of disguise has to be the octopus, [49:39.04] [49:39.12]able to change not only its shape and colour, [49:42.44] [49:42.52]but its skin texture, too. [49:44.68] [49:53.60]Where the reefs meet deeper waters, [49:56.64] [49:56.72]upwelling currents carry nutrients to the surface. [50:00.04] [50:06.44]Reef fish swim out to gorge themselves on the resulting food, [50:11.04] [50:11.12]in turn attracting larger predatory fish to the reefs. [50:15.16] [50:25.80]Trevally prowl in dense packs. [50:28.16] [50:33.44]Giant rays sweep in on graceful wings [50:36.80] [50:36.88]to hoover up the remaining plankton, [50:40.84] [50:40.92]which also attracts the king of fish. [50:44.04] [50:55.20]Growing up to 12 metres long, [50:57.92] [50:58.00]the whale shark is a gentle giant. [51:01.84] [51:01.92]And these days, a rare sighting. [51:04.92] [51:13.44]As sharks, small and large, [51:15.24] [51:15.32]are plundered to supply the East Asian shark meat trade, [51:19.08] [51:19.16]the fate of these fabulous creatures hangs in the balance. [51:23.08] [51:27.72]While healthy coral reefs still survive in the remote islands, [51:31.96] [51:32.04]the situation close to the Chinese coast is quite different. [51:36.12] [51:43.20]The waters along the shores of Hainan, China's largest tropical island, [51:48.20] [51:48.32]have been fished for thousands of years. [51:51.04] [52:01.52]As the reefs become less and less productive, [52:04.60] [52:04.68]fishermen from Tanmen harbour [52:06.28] [52:06.36]need all their resourcefulness to make a living. [52:09.44] [52:23.04]Dicing with death, they breathe air pumped through hose pipes [52:28.04] [52:28.16]in a desperate bid to catch the last remaining sea life. [52:31.68] [52:34.44]Over the years, increased sedimentation and the use of dynamite and cyanide [52:38.20] [52:38.32]means the corals close to shore are barely hanging on. [52:42.36] [52:53.76]Recently the government has recognised that regulation is needed [52:57.68] [52:57.76]if the local fishery is to survive for the future. [53:00.96] [53:06.32]Fishing is now banned for two months of the year [53:08.68] [53:08.80]to allow marine life a chance to breed. [53:11.48] [53:25.64]One of the most important tropical habitats [53:27.84] [53:27.92]for young fish is mangrove swamps. [53:30.56] [53:32.52]In the last 40 years, [53:34.00] [53:34.08]eighty percent of China's mangroves have been destroyed. [53:37.60] [53:39.24]But at the Dongzhaigang Mangrove Reserve in Hainan, [53:43.00] [53:43.12]a remarkable conservation initiative [53:45.56] [53:45.64]is bringing young Chinese volunteers together [53:48.76] [53:48.84]to plant mangrove saplings in the glutinous mud. [53:52.76] [53:56.28]For many of these city-born students, [53:58.48] [53:58.56]such unglamorous work demonstrates their commitment [54:01.56] [54:01.64]to their country's environment. [54:03.92] [54:06.60]Like other heavily populated countries, [54:09.12] [54:09.20]China today is faced with a challenge. [54:12.48] [54:12.56]How best to protect nature in an increasingly crowded space? [54:17.04] [54:33.56]These wild macaques live on a tiny Hainan Island reserve [54:38.68] [54:38.76]where they are carefully managed and looked after. [54:42.04] [54:47.92]Most of the island's hillsides are covered with tropical woodland, [54:52.40] [54:52.48]but there are also areas of flower meadows [54:55.52] [54:55.60]where the monkeys gather to feed. [54:57.96] [55:09.12]Each morning, as the tropical sun heats their island, [55:12.64] [55:12.72]the macaques head downhill in search of somewhere cooler. [55:16.76] [55:19.72]And what could be more refreshing than a dip in the pool? [55:23.60] [55:53.20]To the Chinese, combining a wildlife reserve [55:55.96] [55:56.04]with a tourist development makes perfect commercial sense, [56:00.76] [56:00.84]and the monkeys don't seem at all unhappy with the deal. [56:04.76] [56:10.28]The question is where to draw the line. [56:13.56] [56:18.88](WOMAN SPEAKING CHINESE) [56:20.92] [56:22.08]Like the rest of the world, [56:23.56] [56:23.64]China is still feeling its way towards a harmonious relationship with nature. [56:28.56] [56:33.96]Six hundred years ago [56:35.92] [56:36.00]the people who lived here carved this calligraphy in the rocks, [56:40.08] [56:40.16]announcing it to be "the end of the world". [56:43.48] [56:51.64]In recent years that world has undergone a massive expansion [56:56.44] [56:56.52]as tourists from all over China [56:58.60] [56:58.68]have discovered the delights of Hainan's tropical seaside resorts. [57:02.92] [57:07.48]By 2010, China's total tourism revenue [57:11.48] [57:11.56]is expected to hit ?5 billion a year. [57:15.96] [57:24.20]While insensitive development could destroy China's natural environment, [57:28.96] [57:29.04]well-managed eco-tourism could provide huge benefits for China's wildlife. [57:34.12] [57:38.40]The issues that face China today, increasing pressure on resources [57:42.96] [57:43.04]and living space and quality of environment, [57:46.72] [57:46.84]are those that face us all. [57:48.92] [57:53.24]If there is any country in the world [57:55.32] [57:55.40]equipped to solve environmental problems on a vast scale, [57:59.24] [58:00.88]it has to be China, [58:03.32] [58:03.44]with its tremendous human resources and powerful political control. [58:08.68] [58:08.76]The path it chooses will affect not just its own people [58:13.20] [58:13.28]and its natural environment, [58:16.12] [58:16.20]but the rest of the world, too. [58:18.44]

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