牛仔裝時尚卷土重來

Denim apparel is making a comeback in shops and fashion magazines. But some of the new designs -- from denim leggings for women and jean shorts for men to head-to-toe denim outfits for both sexes -- risk pushing the revived trend too far.  牛仔裝正重新殺回服裝店和時尚雜志，但一些新設計──從女式牛仔褲襪到男式牛仔內(nèi)褲，以及男女通用的從頭至腳的全套牛仔裝──可能會把這股復古風弄得過猶不及。
   
Jessica Biel graces the cover of the February issue of Vogue wearing a denim jacket by Ralph Lauren Collection over a RRL Ralph Lauren denim vest. A current two-page print ad from Dolce & Gabbana's D&G line features models in a club setting wearing head-to-toe denim and denim dresses while a denim handbag rests on a table. 《時尚》(Vogue)雜志2010年2月刊的封面上，好萊塢一線紅人杰西卡•貝爾(Jessica Biel)身著拉夫•勞倫(RRL Ralph Lauren)的牛仔背心，外罩Ralph Lauren Collection的牛仔上衣，給雜志添色不少。杜嘉班納(Dolce & Gabbana)旗下D&G品牌最近發(fā)布了一個雙頁平面廣告，模特們坐在酒吧桌旁，從頭到腳一身牛仔裝扮，身著牛仔裙，手挎牛仔手袋。
   
All that denim is starting to reach the public, making its way into department stores like Macy's and Saks Fifth Avenue, as well as J. Crew and Banana Republic, which recently introduced a denim collection that includes trench coats and shirt dresses. 
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牛仔配牛仔的裝扮卷土重來，重新打入商鋪并登上時尚雜志。從上世紀70年代的牛仔套裝到80年代的牛仔工裝褲，本期將介紹一些最佳和最差牛仔服裝扮。牛仔風開始刮向千家萬戶，進入梅西百貨(Macy's)和薩克斯第五大道精品百貨店 (Saks Fifth Avenue)這樣的大賣場，以及J. Crew和Banana Republic這樣的時尚專賣店，后者最近剛推出一個牛仔服裝系列，包括牛仔風衣和牛仔襯衫裙等。
   
Part of the renewed interest in denim may have to do with the economy: hard-times chic in hard times. A return to gritty, more down-to-earth wear; a rebellion against flashy silk dresses and banker suits. 牛仔裝的卷土重來可能與目前的經(jīng)濟狀況有關：艱難時世流行粗獷衣裝。這是堅韌的本色裝扮的回歸，又是對閃亮絲綢禮服和筆挺西裝的一種顛覆。
   
Simon Kneen, creative director and executive vice president of design at Gap Inc.'s Banana Republic, whose current ads feature models wearing head-to-toe denim, says he was inspired in part by the indigos in Jasper Johns's paintings and, amid the economic downturn, 'the wonderful optimistic feeling of blue skies and springtime and feeling really positive and optimistic.' 西蒙•尼恩(Simon Kneen)是零售商Gap Inc.旗下Banana Republic公司的創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)及設計執(zhí)行副總裁。在公司最近的廣告中，模特全是一身的牛仔打扮。尼恩說他的設計靈感有一部分來自于藝術大師賈斯培爾•瓊斯(Jasper Johns)畫中的靛藍色彩，還有一部分來自于一種感受，即在經(jīng)濟低迷之際，“天藍色能給人一種積極樂觀的精神，給人一種春天不再遙遠的感覺。”
   
The attention on denim may also represent designers' and retailers' inability in the past year to come up with styles or must-have items that consumers can get excited about. 'Denim is a relatively safe choice because it always sells,' says fashion-trend expert David Wolfe. 牛仔的回歸也可能意味著設計師和零售商在過去一年里未能引領出新的時尚潮流，推出讓消費者感到興奮的必備新品。“牛仔裝是相對安全的選擇，因為這種衣服能長期熱賣。”時尚專家戴維•沃爾夫(David Wolfe)說道。
   
But denim-on-denim? Such designs can border on camp or tacky, in the wrong hands. 然而，全身牛仔會給人一種什么感覺？如果搭配不當，這種設計看上去像是去露營或是撿破爛的。 
   
In recent years, denim-on-denim ensembles have been derisively referred to as 'The Canadian tuxedo' after a denim-clad character named Denim Dan gets ribbed for his look in the 2001 movie 'Super Troopers.' Britney Spears and Justin Timberlake were pilloried when they showed up in a denim dress and a denim suit to the 2001 American Music Awards. 近些年來，人們把全身牛仔打扮戲稱為“加拿大式燕尾服”(The Canadian tuxedo)，典故來源于2001年一部名為《超級大兵》(Super Troopers)的電影，里頭的男主角名叫“牛仔丹”(Denim Dan)，老是穿著一身牛仔，模樣古里古怪，看上去很不順眼。小甜甜布蘭妮(Britney Spears)和賈斯汀•汀布萊克(Justin Timberlake)出席2001年全美音樂盛典(2001 American Music Awards)時，身著牛仔裙和牛仔西裝，結果遭到一片噓聲。
   
Mr. Kneen of Banana Republic says denim on denim looks fresh because it hasn't been around for some time. 'Maybe it's been a fashion no no but it's a fashion OK at the moment.' Banana Republic的尼恩說，全身牛仔裝看上去很新鮮，因為很久都沒有這種打扮出現(xiàn)了。也許這談不上什么先鋒時尚，但在目前而言，還是一種說得過去的潮流。
   
Some consumers are wary. 'That's something that doesn't appeal to me aesthetically,' says Natalie Pon, a 21-year-old medical student in Dallas. While she's a fan of denim leggings and will consider buying denim shirts, 'I think it will be hard even for me to wear denim on denim and come off looking good,' she says. 一些消費者持謹慎態(tài)度。“這不符合我的審美情趣。”達拉斯一名21歲的醫(yī)學院學生娜達麗亞•彭(Natalie Pon)說。雖然她很喜歡牛仔褲襪，并考慮買一件牛仔襯衫，但她說，我覺得從頭到腳一身牛仔不會好看。
   
Some retailers are cognizant that some designs may be too much for customers. 一些零售商知道，有些牛仔設計確實超出了消費者的欣賞范疇。
   
'We're not recommending denim on denim,' says Colleen Sherin, women's fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue, a unit of Saks Inc. 'In reality, women will want to mix and match their denim pieces and not wear their denim head to toe.' Instead, Saks will display mannequins and models wearing, say, a denim jacket over a floral dress in its stores and advertising. “我們不建議全身都穿牛仔服裝，”美國奢侈品店運營商Saks Inc.旗下的薩克斯第五大道精品百貨店女裝部負責人珂麗恩•謝林(Colleen Sherin)說，“在現(xiàn)實生活中，女性喜歡把牛仔跟別的衣服搭配著穿，而不是從頭穿到腳。”事實上，Saks商店和廣告中的人體模特穿的也是混搭風格，比如在連衣裙外頭穿上一件牛仔上裝。
   
For men, there are denim shorts by Gilded Age. Though Saks' men's fashion director Eric Jennings says these shorts are more contemporary, they still may not pass muster with some who don't think men should ever wear jean shorts. 在男士服裝方面，Gilded Age品牌推出了牛仔內(nèi)褲系列。雖然Saks男裝部的負責人艾瑞克•杰寧斯(Eric Jennings)說這種內(nèi)褲更時尚一些，但有些消費者也許會不屑一顧，因為覺得牛仔布根本不適合用來做男士內(nèi)褲。
   
In their forthcoming book 'Undateable,' which lists 311 things men do that 'guarantee they won't be dating or having sex,' authors Ellen Rakieten and Anne Coyle rank jean shorts as the number one don't. Wearing denim on denim ranks 18 on their list. 在即將推出的一本名為《約會殺手》(Undateable)的書中，作者艾倫•拉克杰頓(Ellen Rakieten)和安•柯爾勒(Anne Coyle)列舉了 “絕對會讓一個男人變得沒有異性緣”的311件事情，其中把穿牛仔內(nèi)褲列為頭條禁令，而全身牛仔名列第18位。
   
Eric Brewer, a video producer in Washington, D.C., recently wore a dark denim jacket with a slightly lighter faded pair of jeans, paired with a black shirt, and plaid scarf to a party. Still, even he wouldn't go the next step, putting on a denim shirt with a denim jacket and jeans. 'It can look silly, too contrived,' he says. 華盛頓特區(qū)一名影像制片人艾瑞克•布魯厄(Eric Brewe)最近參加一個派對時，上身穿一件暗色牛仔夾克，下身穿一條顏色稍淺的褪色牛仔褲，里頭穿一件黑色襯衫，搭配一條格子花呢圍巾。不過，就連他也不愿更進一步，同時穿上牛仔襯衫、牛仔夾克和牛仔褲。“那種打扮看上去傻里傻氣的，太做作了。” 布魯厄如是說。