品味三亞獨(dú)特的夜生活

 

Sanya's mild climate, sandy beaches and numerous hotel-resorts are already a draw for Russian and Chinese tourists, as well as a sizable number of Westerners from Hong Kong and China.
三亞溫和的氣候、沙灘和無(wú)數(shù)不清的酒店度假村已經(jīng)吸引了眾多的俄羅斯和中國(guó)游客，以及很多來(lái)自居住在香港和中國(guó)大陸的西方游客人。
   

But，the island was a penal colony during imperial times for officials who fell out of favor with the emperor and remained mostly an agricultural and fishing backwater until 1988, when the region was designated by the Chinese central government as a special economic zone.
在封建時(shí)代，海南島是失去皇帝恩寵的官員們的流放地，而在1988年被中國(guó)政府設(shè)立為經(jīng)濟(jì)特區(qū)以前，這里基本上仍是個(gè)依靠農(nóng)耕和捕魚(yú)為生的閉塞地區(qū)。
 
 
Today, Sanya's accommodations include some of the world's top hotel brands. There's also a yacht marina and luxury condo developments, and a reputation for being a playground for China's rich and famous: Sanya has hosted the Miss World competition five times in the last 10 years. The city of more than half a million received about nine million visitors in 2010, almost three times the amount that came here in 2004, according to the China's official statistics.
如今，一些全球最高檔的酒店都在三亞落腳。這里還建有一座游艇碼頭和不少眾多豪華公寓，中國(guó)的富商名流紛至沓來(lái)：三亞在過(guò)去10年舉辦了五次“世界小姐”(Miss World)選美大賽。從中國(guó)官方統(tǒng)計(jì)數(shù)字來(lái)看，擁有50多萬(wàn)人口的三亞在2010年接待了大約900萬(wàn)游客，是將近2004年游客數(shù)量的將近3倍。
   

Our evening begins away from the crowds, at the Sunset Bar in the Mandarin Oriental hotel. An open-air space with a beautiful sweeping view of Dadong Bay, the Sunset Bar is the best place in town to watch dusk fall over the South China Sea. Sipping a mojito in a rattan chair, it's possible to believe that perhaps Sanya might achieve its luxurious ambitions.
我們的夜晚從遠(yuǎn)離喧囂人群的文華東方酒店(Mandarin Oriental hotel)日落吧(Sunset Bar)開(kāi)始。露天的環(huán)境，再加上美麗的大東海(Dadong Bay)海景，日落吧是三亞觀賞夜幕降臨南中國(guó)海的最佳地點(diǎn)。在藤椅里呷一口莫吉托(mojito)雞尾酒，你可能會(huì)有理由相信三亞或許真的可以實(shí)現(xiàn)它的雄心壯志。
   

Off to dinner, and given Sanya's oceanic location, seafood is the obvious choice. Beachfront options abound, but a taxi driver recommendation is the Binhai Seafood Village at the corner of Sanya Wan Lu and Youyi Jie. Diners pick from clams of all shapes and sizes, tropical fish and several species of crabs and prawns. The seafood is plucked straight from the tank, weighed in front of you, then cooked according to your choice -- steamed, sauteed, spicy, with black bean sauce being a few of the more popular options.
晚餐時(shí)間，考慮到三亞的地理位置，海鮮是當(dāng)仁不讓的選擇。海邊的餐廳不勝枚舉，但是出租車(chē)司機(jī)推薦我們?nèi)チ巳齺啚陈泛陀颜x街交匯處的濱海漁村海鮮店(Binhai Seafood Village)。在這里，顧客可以選擇各種形狀和大小的蛤蜊、熱帶魚(yú)類以及不同種類的螃蟹和大蝦。各種海味被直接從水箱里抓出來(lái)，當(dāng)著你的面稱重，然后按照你的選擇進(jìn)行烹制──清蒸、煎炸、辣燒和配以豆豉醬的香辣口味都是幾種很受歡迎的烹飪方法。
   
Among the offerings is puffer fish -- a pricey choice at more than 500 yuan (US$77) for a single fish of about 1.5 pounds. It's also a risky option -- a local fisherman died of poisoning in November from eating an ill-prepared puffer for lunch, a sobering reminder of the perils of food adventurism. Instead, try steamed grouper with ginger and scallions, sauteed conical clams with chilies, steamed scallops with garlic and bean thread noodles and coconut rice -- a local specialty that involves cooking glutinous rice in coconut shells. 你還可以選擇吃河豚──它這種魚(yú)價(jià)格不菲，重約1.5磅的一條河豚售價(jià)超過(guò)500元（約合77美元）。而且也還有風(fēng)險(xiǎn)──當(dāng)?shù)氐囊幻麧O夫在去年11月因?yàn)槭秤昧藳](méi)有處理好的河豚而中毒死亡身亡，這對(duì)冒險(xiǎn)品嘗美味的危險(xiǎn)性敲響了警鐘。作為替代，你可以試試清蒸石斑魚(yú)、蛤蜊煎、蒜茸蒸扇貝、冬粉和椰子飯──在椰子殼里做糯米飯，是當(dāng)?shù)氐囊坏捞厣称贰?
   

(For western food, Fat Daddy's along Sanya Bay serves burgers, quesadillas, nachos and pizza, as well as a decent white wine sangria.)
（如果要吃西餐的話，三亞灣路上的胖老爸休閑餐吧(Fat Daddy's)供應(yīng)漢堡包、墨西哥玉米薄餅、玉米片和比薩餅，以及用白葡萄酒調(diào)制而成的味道不錯(cuò)的桑哥利亞酒(sangria)。）
   
After dinner, head to Times Coast Bar Street, which is better known by locals as Jiu Ba Jie (literally 'Bar Street'). Clubs lining either side of the road blare out international dance hits from Lady Gaga and her ilk. Inside, locals and tourists grind it out no matter what day of the week. The bars and clubs are basically interchangeable, though MJ, located near the entrance of Jiu Ba Jie and along Yuya Road, is a bigger hit among the Western tourists and expatriate crowd.
吃過(guò)晚飯，我們?nèi)チ藭r(shí)代海岸酒吧街(Times Coast Bar Street)，當(dāng)?shù)厝朔Q之為“酒吧街”。道路兩旁的俱樂(lè)部里播放著Lady Gaga等國(guó)際巨星的喧囂舞曲。無(wú)論是星期幾，當(dāng)?shù)厝撕陀慰投紩?huì)來(lái)到這里消磨時(shí)光。這里的酒吧和俱樂(lè)部基本沒(méi)有什么區(qū)別上都是大同小異，盡管不過(guò)位于酒吧街入口附近榆亞路上的名艦MJ酒吧更最受西方游客和住在當(dāng)?shù)氐耐鈬?guó)人的青睞。
   
For a more relaxed drink with tolerable music in the same vicinity, visit Rainbow Bar & Grill, where '80s hits reign and draft Anchor beer is the drink of choice. Located on the edge of Sanya River, the outdoor patio overlooks a crowd of wooden fishing boats -- a reminder of what Sanya was like before the tourists came.
如果想在附近更輕松地喝上一杯，聽(tīng)聽(tīng)更舒緩的音樂(lè)，就去彩虹酒吧燒烤店(Rainbow Bar & Grill)。在那里，上世紀(jì)80年代的流行音樂(lè)唱主角，力加(Anchor)生啤酒則是人們的最愛(ài)。這家店坐落在三亞河邊，從外面的庭院可以俯瞰很多的木制漁船──讓人們想起三亞在成為旅游勝地之前的樣子。
  
 
There's a shortage of cabs in Sanya -- motor rickshaws are both more plentiful and more fun. A five-minute drive toward Dadong Bay, Dolphin Sports Bar & Grill has a nightly Filipino acoustic cover band and a steady feed of ESPN sports programming on its screens.
三亞的出租車(chē)不多──小摩的倒是滿大街都是，而且也更有趣。朝著大東海方向開(kāi)車(chē)走上五分鐘，就到了海豚體育酒吧燒烤店(Dolphin Sports Bar & Grill)。那里每天晚上都有一支菲律賓的acoustic cover翻唱樂(lè)隊(duì)在表演，還有一塊大屏幕常年轉(zhuǎn)播ESPN電視臺(tái)的比賽節(jié)目。
   

When it comes to late-night munchies, the local specialty is a dish of wok-fried rice noodles with pork, bean sprouts, scallions, and a dose of the local yellow-pepper chili sauce that varies in strength from stall to stall and can sometimes singe the tongue with it spiciness. Wherever there are busy bars in Sanya, a stall serving these cheap noodles can be found.
到了宵夜時(shí)間，當(dāng)?shù)氐奶厣秦i肉末、豆芽和小蔥炒米線，配上當(dāng)?shù)禺a(chǎn)的黃燈籠辣椒醬吃。攤位不同，辣椒醬的辣度也不一樣，有時(shí)候真的會(huì)辣掉人的舌頭。在三亞，哪里有生意紅火的酒吧，哪里就有賣(mài)這些便宜米線的攤位。
   

But the best late-night treat found in town is at the corner of Yuhai Road and Yuya Road, where a couple of transplanted Northern Chinese are serving up steamed buns and dumplings filled with pork and chives. Chow down on these with other late-night revelers and you're reminded that while Sanya is no Waikiki, it has its own unique charms.
 但是，不過(guò)要吃到三亞最好吃的宵夜，可以在還得去榆海路和榆亞路的交匯處找到交叉路口。一些幾個(gè)移居海南的中國(guó)北方人在這里賣(mài)饅頭包子和豬肉大蔥餡水餃。和其他夜貓子們一起品嘗著這些美味，讓你想起你會(huì)不由得想，雖然這里三亞不是威基基海灘，卻它有著自己獨(dú)特的魅力。