低胸裝時代來臨，回歸自然胸型

　　低胸裝時代來臨，回歸自然胸型

　　Out with the Wonderbra, in with the ... sag? (And we don’t mean the Screen Actors Guild.) Dresses with revealing necklines have been stealing the spotlight this awards season, signaling, perhaps, a new era in red-carpet décolletage.

　　神奇胸罩(Wonderbra)過時了，入時的是……下垂(sag)?(這里可不是指銀幕演員公會[Screen Actors Guild]。)低領(lǐng)連衣裙在這個頒獎季搶盡風(fēng)頭，也許昭示著紅地毯上低胸裝新時代的來臨。

　　At the Guild’s awards last month, Michelle Dockery, a star of “Downton Abbey,” wore a black and white J. Mendel dress that exposed much of her chest, while at the Golden Globes, more than a half-dozen actresses (Amy Adams, Sandra Bullock and Kate Mara among them) turned up in low-cut frocks that seemed to defy the use of regular brassieres.

　　在上個月的美國演員工會獎(Guild’s awards)頒獎禮上，《唐頓莊園》(Downton Abbey)女星米歇爾·道克瑞(Michelle Dockery)穿著一件黑白色的J. Mendel連衣裙，暴露了胸部的很大一部分，而在金球獎上，至少有五六個女演員(包括艾米·亞當(dāng)斯[Amy Adams]、桑德拉·布洛克[Sandra Bullock]和凱特·瑪拉[Kate Mara])都穿著不能跟普通文胸搭配的低胸連衣裙。

　　This is a new kind of cleavage ideal: Not the often artificially inflated breasts of yore, but a more naturalistic teardrop shape that harks back to the 1970s. Tired, perhaps, of exposing the top of the breasts, with the obvious leers that practice inspires, stars are now exposing the sides (sometimes at their peril: witness, along with a tsking Twitterverse, the “House of Cards” star Robin Wright’s flash of a pasty during her acceptance speech).

　　這是一種新型的理想乳溝線條：不是之前常常人為地托高乳房，而是回歸到20世紀(jì)70年代、更自然的淚滴形狀。也許厭倦了露出乳房上部，因為那會引起明顯的瞥視，女星們現(xiàn)在開始暴露乳房的側(cè)面了(有時也有風(fēng)險：《紙牌屋》[House of Cards]女星羅賓·萊特[Robin Wright]發(fā)表獲獎感言時險些走光，此事在Twitter大為傳播)。

　　At the Globes, Julianna Margulies and Margot Robbie, from “The Wolf of Wall Street,” also went nonchalantly low-cut.

　　在金球獎上，《華爾街之狼》(The Wolf of Wall Street)女星朱麗安娜·瑪格麗絲(Julianna Margulies)和瑪格特·羅比(Margot Robbie)也若無其事地穿著低胸裝。

　　Valerie Steele, director and chief curator of the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, has noticed the shift. “What we had before was so much controlled and presented sexuality,” she said, referring to the corset-style gowns and push-up bras that have ruled the red carpets in awards seasons past. “The newer look is more dégagé, more natural.”

　　瓦萊麗·斯蒂勒(Valerie Steele)是紐約時裝技術(shù)學(xué)院(Fashion Institute of Technology)博物館的首席策展人和總監(jiān)，她談到了這種轉(zhuǎn)變：“之前的情況是對性征大加控制和展示。”她指的是在頒獎季中泛濫紅地毯的緊身胸衣式禮服和托高型胸罩。“這種新造型更大方、更自然。”

　　“Very Studio 54,” agreed the Hollywood stylist Jeanne Yang, adding that she had showcased a similar halter-style silhouette in her spring 2014 collection for Holmes & Yang, a fashion line Ms. Yang designs with the actress Katie Holmes. “It’s a really flattering look,” she said. “It can make you look taller and leaner. And in a strange way it’s sexy, but it’s not like your cleavage is out there.”

　　“這有著很強(qiáng)烈的54俱樂部(Studio54)風(fēng)格，”好萊塢造型師珍妮·楊(Jeanne Yang)說，她還說自己2014年Holmes & Yang春裝系列中有一件類似的掛脖裙。Holmes & Yang是楊與女星凱蒂·赫爾姆斯(Katie Holmes)設(shè)計的一個時尚系列。“它穿上非常好看，”她說。“可以讓你看起來更高，更瘦。有一種別樣的性感，但是感覺不像露出了乳溝。”

　　Andrew Gn, who designed the black and gold gown Ms. Margulies wore to the Globes, wrote in an email that the neckline on Ms. Margulies’s dress gave “sizzle to a deliberately austere dress.” “The contrast between the fairly covered body and the deep neckline makes it very modern,” he wrote.

　　鄞昌濤(Andrew Gn)是朱麗安娜·瑪格麗絲在金球獎上穿著的黑、金色禮服的設(shè)計師，他在一封電子郵件中寫道，那件衣服的V領(lǐng)“是一件特意顯得簡樸的連衣裙的迷人亮點。”還寫道，“低領(lǐng)口和被包裹的全身的對比，讓它顯得非常時髦。”

　　Mary Alice Stephenson, a style consultant, credited musicians like Rihanna, who wore low-cut Armani to the Grammy Awards in 2012, and Jennifer Lopez, who drew attention in a plunging Zuhair Murad gown at the 2012 Vanity Fair Oscars party, for starting the trend. She also cited young designers like Peter Dundas, artistic director at Emilio Pucci, and Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs of the New York-based brand Cushnie et Ochs, for trying to “reinvent glamorous dressing” with design elements like cutouts and deep necklines.

　　瑪麗·愛麗絲·斯蒂芬森(Mary Alice Stephenson)是一名造型顧問，她說是蕾哈娜(Rihanna)和珍妮弗·洛佩茲(Jennifer Lopez)這樣的音樂人開啟了這個趨勢：蕾哈娜2012年穿著低胸阿瑪尼(Armani)禮服參加格萊美獎，洛佩茲2012年參加《名利場》(Vanity Fair)奧斯卡派對時穿著的一件祖海·慕拉(Zuhair Murad)低領(lǐng)口禮服也吸引了大家的注意。她還列舉了璞琪(Emilio Pucci)的藝術(shù)總監(jiān)彼得•鄧達(dá)斯(Peter Dundas)，紐約品牌Cushnie et Ochs的卡莉·庫什尼(Carly Cushnie)和米歇爾·奧克斯(Michelle Ochs)等年輕設(shè)計師，說他們用挖空設(shè)計和低領(lǐng)元素來“重塑迷人的連衣裙”。

　　“Fashion is pushing the boundaries of what is acceptable,” Ms. Stephenson said. “It’s less about being ladylike and more about being powerful.”

　　“時尚正在推動‘什么是可以接受’的界限，”斯蒂芬森說。“它表現(xiàn)的主要不是淑女風(fēng)范，而是強(qiáng)大氣場。”

　　Johnny Talbot, who is a designer of Talbot Runhof, a ready-to-wear line based in Munich, believes celebrities are vying for the public’s increasingly divided attention with ever-more-scandalous ensembles. (Kim Kardashian in the black Givenchy dress she wore during the last Paris Fashion Week comes to mind, as does Lady Gaga.) “The competition is so fierce among these girls,” Mr. Talbot said. “Everyone wants to be younger and sexier and chicer, and it’s all about exposure. And part of this is exposure of the skin.”

　　約翰尼·塔爾博特(Johnny Talbot)是慕尼黑成衣品牌Talbot Runhof的設(shè)計師，他認(rèn)為名人們正在用比以往更夸張的服裝來爭奪公眾日益分散的注意力。(金·卡戴珊[Kim Kardashian]上次在巴黎時裝周穿的黑色紀(jì)梵希[Givenchy]禮服映入腦海，還有Lady Gaga。)“在這些女孩中，競爭非常激烈，”塔爾博特說。“每個人都想顯得更年輕、更性感、更時髦，曝光度是最重要的。而暴露皮膚是曝光的一部分。”

　　Take, for example, the black and white Cushnie et Ochs frock the actress Malin Akerman sported to the People’s Choice Awards on Jan. 8. It featured a daring — not to mention inventive — T-bar cutout on the chest that left little to the imagination. Heidi Klum, meanwhile, drew attention to her poitrine in a black Giorgio Armani gown with a deep V neckline, and earlier that same day — at a charity luncheon, no less — the “Glee” actress Dianna Agron (in a white blazer dress) and the singer Natasha Bedingfield (in a cleavage-revealing black dress) also appeared to have foregone their bras.

　　比如，女演員馬林·阿克曼(Malin Akerman)1月8日參加人民選擇獎(People’s Choice Awards)穿的黑、白色Cushnie et Ochs連衣裙。其特點是大膽的——更不用說別出心裁了——胸部T型挖空設(shè)計幾乎不留想象空間。海蒂·克拉姆(Heidi Klum)用一件深V領(lǐng)口黑色阿瑪尼禮服把人們的注意力吸引到她的胸部，而當(dāng)天早些時候——在一個慈善午宴上，居然——《歡樂合唱團(tuán)》(Glee)女星戴安娜·艾格倫(Dianna Agron)(穿著白色西服裙)和歌手娜塔莎·貝丁菲爾德(Natasha Bedingfield)(穿著黑色透視裝)似乎也沒有穿文胸。

　　“It’s like they’re all letting it all hang out,” Ms. Steele said.

　　“就好像她們讓胸一直晃蕩著，”斯蒂勒說。

　　Some plastic surgeons concurred that there has been a shift in focus away from the top of the breast, which they call the upper pole, to the place where the breast tissue meets the chest wall, referred to by doctors as the inframammary fold.

　　一些整形外科醫(yī)生認(rèn)為，重點已經(jīng)從乳房的上部——醫(yī)生稱之為“上極”(upper pole)——轉(zhuǎn)移到了乳房組織跟胸壁結(jié)合的地方，醫(yī)生稱之為“乳房下皺襞”(inframammary fold)。

　　When it comes to the Barbie-doll look, “people don’t really ask for that anymore,” said Dr. Oren Tepper, assistant professor of plastic surgery at Albert Einstein College of Medicine, Montefiore Medical Center in the Bronx.

　　當(dāng)談到芭比娃娃的外形時，奧倫·泰珀(Oren Tepper)醫(yī)生說：“人們不再真的要求打造這形象了。”他是阿爾伯特·愛因斯坦醫(yī)學(xué)院(Albert Einstein College of Medicine)位于布朗克斯的蒙蒂菲奧醫(yī)學(xué)中心(Montefiore Medical Center)的整形外科助理教授。

　　Dr. Chia Chi Kao, a plastic surgeon based in Santa Monica, Calif., said, “They want something that looks more natural and fits their frames better.” He added that revisions — the removal of overly large implants in favor of smaller ones, followed by a breast lift — now accounted for roughly 80 percent of his breast surgery business. “Women are more sophisticated, and they’re more professional,” Dr. Kao said. “They don’t want to look frumpy in a suit jacket.”

　　高嘉馳(Chia Chi Kao，音譯)是加州圣莫妮卡的整形外科醫(yī)生，他說：“女性想要看起來更自然，更適合自己身材的胸部。”他說，修改胸部手術(shù)——取出過大的植入物，換成較小的，加之以乳房提升——現(xiàn)在大約占到他的乳房手術(shù)業(yè)務(wù)的80%。“女性變得更加干練，更有專業(yè)風(fēng)范。”高嘉馳說。“她們不希望在穿著西裝外套的時候顯得土里土氣。”

　　Improved techniques, like under-the-muscle placement of implants and innovations in fat transference (from, say, the hips to the upper pole of the breast) as well as the approval of so-called gummy bear or tear-drop-shaped implants by the Federal Drug Administration, have given plastic and reconstructive surgeons the ability to create more natural-looking breasts, said Dr. Adam Kolker, an associate clinical professor at Mount Sinai Hospital in Manhattan.

　　曼哈頓西奈山醫(yī)院(Mount Sinai Hospital)的臨床醫(yī)學(xué)副教授亞當(dāng)· 科爾克爾(Adam Kolker)博士說，胸大肌下植入假體、脂肪注射方面的創(chuàng)新(比如，把脂肪從臀部轉(zhuǎn)移到乳房上極)以及美國食品與藥品管理局(Food and Drug Administration)新批準(zhǔn)的所謂的軟糖熊或淚滴形假體移植，這些更為先進(jìn)的技術(shù)使整形修復(fù)科的醫(yī)生能夠塑造出更自然的胸部形狀。

　　Dr. Shirley Madhere, a plastic surgeon in New York City who wore a cleavage-revealing Gucci dress to a gala for the New York City Ballet, said she’s noted a connection between what is happening on the red carpet and on fashion runways and what her patients are hoping to gain (or not) on her surgical table. “It’s not about volume anymore,” Dr. Madhere said. “The new mantra is, contour is queen.”

　　紐約市的整形醫(yī)生雪莉·邁德赫爾(Shirley Madhere)曾穿著一件露出乳溝的古琦晚禮服參加紐約市芭蕾舞團(tuán)(New York City Ballet)的一個慶典。她說，從紅毯和T臺上的情況，以及病人從她的手術(shù)臺需要(或者不需要)獲得的效果之間，她發(fā)現(xiàn)了一個共同點。邁德赫爾說，“重要的不再是大小。新的信條是，線條為王。”

　　However natural, the new look can require as many props as the old one. Ms. Yang said she uses Topstick, a toupee tape, to help her celebrity clients avoid wardrobe malfunctions.

　　無論多么自然，新的造型也需要同樣多的支撐物。珍妮·楊說，她用Topstick——一種粘假發(fā)的膠帶，幫助她的名人客戶避免服裝不給力的情況發(fā)生。

　　David Kirsch, the fitness expert, meanwhile, said he amps up the number of chest presses, pull overs and other exercises his clients do before award season to help give breasts a boost. “The stronger and more toned the underlying muscles are, the perkier your breasts will be,” said Mr. Kirsch, who owns the Madison Square Club in New York.

　　與此同時，健身專家大衛(wèi)·基爾希還說，在頒獎季之前，他讓客戶增加了做臥推、提拉以及其他運動的次數(shù)，幫助他們塑造胸型。基爾希說，“肌肉越大、越具有彈性，你的胸部就越豐滿。”基爾希是紐約麥迪遜廣場俱樂部(Madison Square Club)的所有者。

　　Good posture also helps.

　　當(dāng)然，擺出好看的姿勢也有幫助。