LV開啟新一輪時(shí)裝界搶座游戲

LV開啟新一輪時(shí)裝界搶座游戲

It might be a spare, Modernist chair carved out on geometric lines or a rich velvet pouf elevated by a gilded frame. But regardless of how they look, this new Paris fashion season is a nonstop game of musical chairs.

它可能是把具有幾何線條的簡潔的現(xiàn)代主義的椅子，也可能是一把鍍著金邊、帶有天鵝絨坐墊的昂貴的椅子。但是不管它是什么樣子，這新的巴黎時(shí)裝季是一場不停歇的搶椅子游戲。

The dramatic shake-up of brands, exhilarating for fashion’s progress, is unprecedented. And this is not about aging designers handing over a supporting role to someone in the wings. Instead, change at the top is becoming a 21st-century phenomenon, even with the mightiest brands.

這些品牌的戲劇化人事變動(dòng)是史無前例的，令人為時(shí)裝的進(jìn)步感到興奮。不是老設(shè)計(jì)師把副手的角色交給身邊的某個(gè)人。相反，頂層的變動(dòng)正成為21世紀(jì)的常見現(xiàn)象，包括那些最強(qiáng)大的品牌。

There is nothing so big and bold as Louis Vuitton, the cash cow of the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton empire. The arrival of Nicolas Ghesquière, 42, at Balenciaga for 15 years, is the most highly anticipated fashion moment since Tom Ford took over at Yves Saint Laurent 14 years ago — although Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent moment in 2012 came close.

其中最大膽的變動(dòng)發(fā)生在路威酩軒(LVMH)集團(tuán)的搖錢樹路易威登(Louis Vuitton)上。曾在巴黎世家(Balenciaga)工作了15年的42歲的尼古拉斯·蓋斯奇埃爾(Nicolas Ghesquière)入主LV是14年前湯姆·福特(Tom Ford)接管伊夫圣羅蘭(Yves Saint Laurent)以來時(shí)裝界最期待的時(shí)刻——雖然2012年艾迪·斯里曼(Hedi Slimane)入主圣羅蘭時(shí)也很引人注目。

The Ghesquière arrival is the more poignant because it marked the departure of Marc Jacobs, 50, after almost 17 years at the helm. He is now concentrating on an initial public offering of his own brand with the encouragement and support of LVMH.

蓋斯奇埃爾的到來更加引人矚目，因?yàn)樗鼧?biāo)志著掌舵近17年的50歲的馬克·雅可布(Marc Jacobs)離開了。他現(xiàn)在全心致力于自己品牌的首次公募，這得到了路威酩軒集團(tuán)的鼓勵(lì)和支持。

In November, when Mr. Ghesquière’s appointment was first announced, the designer said he would not put down the foundations of a personal brand.

11月份，蓋斯奇埃爾的任命首次被宣布時(shí)，這位設(shè)計(jì)師說他不會(huì)降低一個(gè)個(gè)人品牌的底線。

“I am absolutely delighted to make a new proposition at Louis Vuitton. I am so excited, and I think I will be very busy,” the designer said at the time. “I have my playground for a few years now.”

“我當(dāng)然為能在LV開展新工作而高興。我特別興奮，我想我會(huì)很忙，”這位設(shè)計(jì)師當(dāng)時(shí)說，“在未來幾年里我有施展才華的地方了。”

This momentous first start at Vuitton will be shadowed by many others: for example, at Schiaparelli, the first ready-to-wear collection from Marco Zanini. Dusting down this historic house, first with a couture collection in January, is a bold step taken by the label’s owner, the Italian entrepreneur Diego Della Valle.

在LV的這個(gè)重大的首次啟動(dòng)之后，緊接著將發(fā)生很多其他事情：比如，馬爾科·扎尼尼(Marco Zanini)在夏帕瑞麗(Schiaparelli)的第一個(gè)成衣系列。該品牌的所有者、意大利企業(yè)家迪亞戈·德拉·瓦萊(Diego Della Valle)拂去這個(gè)歷史悠久的服裝公司的風(fēng)塵，在1月份邁出大膽的一步，推出了第一個(gè)高級(jí)定制系列。

As Mr. Zanini had been at Rochas, his departure left a vacancy now being taken by the Italian designer Alessandro Dell’Acqua.

扎尼尼本來執(zhí)掌羅莎(Rochas)，他離開后留下的空缺如今被意大利設(shè)計(jì)師亞歷山德羅·德拉夸(Alessandro Dell’Acqua)占據(jù)。

Vionnet, which tapped Hussein Chalayan for demi couture in January, will follow up this week with a ready-to-wear collection by Albino d’Amato and Goga Ashkenazi, the brand’s owner.

薇歐奈(Vionnet)1月份挑選侯賽因·卡拉揚(yáng)(Hussein Chalayan)設(shè)計(jì)半成衣系列，這周將推出一個(gè)成衣系列，設(shè)計(jì)師是阿爾比諾·達(dá)馬托(Albino d’Amato)和戈加·阿什克納齊(Goga Ashkenazi)，后者是該品牌的所有者。

Yiqing Yin, a designer born in Beijing but raised in France, will be showing her first collection for Leonard. The designer won the 2011 First Collections Award at the prestigious Andam competition in France for her own line, which will be presented in Paris this week.

在北京出生、法國長大的設(shè)計(jì)師殷亦晴將展示她為李?yuàn)W納德(Leonard)設(shè)計(jì)的第一個(gè)系列。2011年，在享有聲望的法國安德姆(Andam)時(shí)裝獎(jiǎng)競賽中，這位設(shè)計(jì)師憑借自己的服裝系列獲得了首秀獎(jiǎng)(First Collections Award)，本周她自己的服裝系列也將在巴黎展示。

Ann Demeulemeester, the Belgian designer of poetic and romantic collections played out to the music of Patti Smith, has left the company she founded in the ’80s. But she will not be replaced; her collection will be handled by her long-serving team.

比利時(shí)設(shè)計(jì)師安·迪穆拉米斯特(Ann Demeulemeester)曾伴隨著帕蒂·史密斯(Patti Smith)的音樂展示詩意、浪漫的服裝系列。如今她離開了自己在20世紀(jì)80年代創(chuàng)立的公司。但是她不會(huì)被取代，長期為她服務(wù)的團(tuán)隊(duì)將接管她的服裝系列。

Other labels already have grabbed a new designers.

其他品牌已經(jīng)找到了新設(shè)計(jì)師。

At Paco Rabanne, Julien Dossena who joined the company last August, is hoping to rebuild the brand. And in late 2012, Sonia Rykiel named as Geraldo da Conceiçao as its creative director, a designer who had been in charge of Vuitton’s women’s wear and in similarly senior posts at Miu Miu and Yves Saint Laurent.

朱利安·多塞納(Julien Dossena)去年8月加入帕高(Paco Rabanne)公司，該公司希望借此重建自己的品牌。2012年底，索尼亞·里基爾(Sonia Rykiel)任命杰拉爾多·達(dá)·孔塞桑(Geraldo da Conceiçao)擔(dān)任創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)，這位設(shè)計(jì)師曾主管LV的女裝，并曾在繆繆(Miu Miu)和伊夫圣羅蘭擔(dān)任類似的高級(jí)職位。