高下無(wú)法立判的米蘭和巴黎男裝周

What to Look For During Paris Men’s Fashion Week

高下無(wú)法立判的米蘭和巴黎男裝周

When the traveling circus arrives at last in Paris, creakier and grouchier than it began weeks ago in London but no less properly dressed, the men’s wear marathon begins its final lap.

巴黎——巡演馬戲團(tuán)終于到達(dá)巴黎，比幾周前在倫敦開(kāi)始時(shí)更陳腐，更愛(ài)發(fā)牢騷，但是服裝的精致程度絲毫未減，這場(chǎng)男裝馬拉松開(kāi)始了它的最后一輪。

After tumult and celebration in Milan - which offered drama at Gucci and self-congratulation on the Via Gesù, where the ever-growing number of men’s luxury stores, newly enhanced with the addition of Caruso, Rubinacci and Luciano Barbera, merited, in the opinion of the city, the honorary title of La Via dell’Uomo - Paris offers more creative satisfactions but, perhaps, fewer immediate highs and lows. Time will tell.

米蘭的男裝周上有古馳(Gucci)的戲劇性場(chǎng)面，此外那里的耶穌街(Via Gesù)也頗為沾沾自喜，這條街上的奢侈男裝店越來(lái)越多，Caruso、Rubinacci和Luciano Barbera三大品牌的進(jìn)駐更是錦上添花，在米蘭看來(lái)，耶穌街配得上“男裝街”的榮譽(yù)稱(chēng)號(hào)。在這一系列騷動(dòng)和慶祝之后，巴黎上演了更有創(chuàng)意的時(shí)裝秀，不過(guò)也許不能高下立判。時(shí)間會(huì)告訴我們一切。

From left: Guillaume Henry, Raf Simons and Rick Owens are all showing their men's collections in Paris.

(左起)紀(jì)堯姆·亨利、拉夫·西蒙斯和里克·歐文斯都在巴黎展示自己的男裝系列。

One early show, Carven, has disappeared from the runway. In October, Carven’s former designer, Guillaume Henry, decamped for Nina Ricci in the latest round of fashion musical chairs. His last men’s collection will be shown quietly, by appointment, as his successor has not yet been named.

卡紛(Carven)早先的一場(chǎng)時(shí)裝秀從秀臺(tái)上消失了。10月份，卡紛的前設(shè)計(jì)師紀(jì)堯姆·亨利(Guillaume Henry)在最新一輪時(shí)裝界搶椅子游戲中跳槽去了蓮娜麗姿(Nina Ricci)擔(dān)任職位。他的最后一個(gè)男裝系列將按照約定悄悄展示，因?yàn)樗睦^任者尚未任命。

Paris’s opening Wednesday brings Valentino, Haider Ackermann, Christophe Lemaire and Raf Simons to the fall 2015 conversation, with Mr. Simons using his invitation to make a bold statement, rendered in bright red letters on a fold-out poster: “To the archives, no longer relevant.” But what will all the obsessive collectors trawling eBay for bits of vintage Raf have to say about that?

周三，在巴黎的開(kāi)幕日上，華倫天奴(Valentino)、海德·艾克曼(Haider Ackermann)、克里斯托弗·勒梅爾(Christophe Lemaire)和拉夫·西蒙斯(Raf Simons)開(kāi)始了2015年的秋冬時(shí)裝對(duì)話(huà)。西蒙斯在邀請(qǐng)函中做出大膽聲明，在折疊式海報(bào)上用鮮紅的字體寫(xiě)道：“從此，與服裝檔案再無(wú)關(guān)系。”但是，在eBay上癡迷搜尋拉夫·西蒙斯那些舊設(shè)計(jì)的收藏者們對(duì)此會(huì)作何感想?

After that, the week kicks into gear, with highlights every day. It wouldn’t be a Paris week without Rick Owens’s black-clad acolytes arriving en masse to his show, or the latest big-budget spectacle from Kim Jones at Louis Vuitton. (If his Instagram is any indication, he’s been looking at the work of the late English avant-garde designer Christopher Nemeth for inspiration, and at least one Daimler-printed bag.)

之后，這次男裝周開(kāi)始全速運(yùn)轉(zhuǎn)，每天都有亮點(diǎn)。巴黎時(shí)裝周少不了里克·歐文斯(Rick Owens)那些身穿黑衣的追隨者，他們成群結(jié)隊(duì)來(lái)到他的時(shí)裝秀;也少不了路易·威登(Louis Vuitton)的金姆·瓊斯(Kim Jones)最新的大成本華麗時(shí)裝秀(如果他的Instagram能說(shuō)明一些問(wèn)題的話(huà)，可以看出，他從已故的英國(guó)先鋒設(shè)計(jì)師克里斯托弗·內(nèi)梅特 [Christopher Nemeth]的作品中尋找靈感，至少Daimler印花手袋的靈感來(lái)源于此)。

Paris Fashion Week is among the most global of the fashion weeks, where one day you can see the latest collections from Belgian labels, like Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester and Maison Margiela; another day, those from Japan, including Junya Watanabe, Comme des Garçons, Miharayasuhiro and Sacai. (Speaking of Japan, this season sees the return of an old idol of the Japanese-fashion cognoscenti: Takahiro Miyashita, of the cult-worshipped line Number (N)ine, who is showing his post-(N)ine collection, The Soloist, by appointment.)

巴黎時(shí)裝周是各大時(shí)裝周中最具國(guó)際性的，在這里，前一天你可能看到的是比利時(shí)品牌的最新時(shí)裝系列，比如德賴(lài)斯·范諾頓(Dries Van Noten)、安·迪穆拉米斯特(Ann Demeulemeester)和馬吉拉屋(Maison Margiela);第二天你可能看到的是日本品牌，比如渡邊淳彌(Junya Watanabe)、川久保玲(Comme des Garçons)、三原康裕(Miharayasuhiro)和Sacai——提到日本，這一季，日本時(shí)裝界的行家、資深偶像宮下貴裕(Takahiro Miyashita)回歸了，他曾推出受到瘋狂追捧的Number (N)ine系列，現(xiàn)在正按照約定展示(N)ine之后的系列：The Soloist。