為何除臭香體露在中國(guó)不受歡迎？中國(guó)人自帶除臭基因

Unilever brought its Rexona deodorant to China a decade ago, dreaming of a market with 2.6 billion armpits.

聯(lián)合利華十年前就把舒耐香體露帶進(jìn)了中國(guó)，夢(mèng)想著一個(gè)有26億腋窩的市場(chǎng)。

Wages were rising, consumers were spending and the run-up to the 2008 Beijing Olympics was making Chinese people feel more cosmopolitan. More of them, it stood to reason, would be open to a Western hygiene product.

工資在增長(zhǎng)，消費(fèi)者在花錢(qián)，彼時(shí)即將舉行的2008年北京奧運(yùn)會(huì)也使中國(guó)人更有國(guó)際化的感覺(jué)。按理說(shuō)，會(huì)有更多人愿意接受這個(gè)西方的衛(wèi)生用品。

“We had an extremely ambitious plan at the time,” Mr. Braeken said.

(聯(lián)合利華大中華區(qū)前總裁)薄睿凱說(shuō)：“我們當(dāng)時(shí)有一個(gè)非常有野心的計(jì)劃。”

But cultural differences and simple biology — scientists have shown that many East Asian people don’t have Westerners’ body odor issues — scotched those plans. Sales totaled only a fraction of the Chinese marketing budget for Rexona, Mr. Braeken said. Today, by some estimates, less than 10 percent of China’s population uses deodorant, and it can be hard to find outside major cities.

但文化差異和簡(jiǎn)單的生理問(wèn)題——科學(xué)家已經(jīng)證明許多東亞人并沒(méi)有西方人的體味問(wèn)題——阻撓了這些計(jì)劃。薄睿凱說(shuō)，舒耐在中國(guó)的銷售總量只達(dá)到市場(chǎng)營(yíng)銷預(yù)算的一小部分，據(jù)估計(jì)，目前中國(guó)只有不到10%的人口使用香體露，在大城市之外更加難找。

China’s growing consumer class has fueled global growth and lifted the fortunes of Starbucks, KFC and a host of other Western brands. Many Chinese people now drink coffee instead of tea, eat cheese and ice cream despite potential tummy tremors, and guzzle ice-cold sodas in a country where grandmothers express a mortal fear at any liquid below room temperature.

中國(guó)不斷增長(zhǎng)的消費(fèi)階層推動(dòng)著全球經(jīng)濟(jì)增長(zhǎng)，為星巴克、肯德基等一大堆西方品牌增添了財(cái)富。許多中國(guó)人現(xiàn)在會(huì)喝咖啡而不是喝茶，即使可能會(huì)出現(xiàn)腸胃不適也要吃奶酪和冰激凌，而在這個(gè)老奶奶見(jiàn)到低于室溫的飲料都會(huì)表現(xiàn)出極度恐懼的國(guó)家，人們也開(kāi)始狂飲冰冷的汽水。

But the drive to win China’s consumers has had its notable failures. Like tampons and Weetabix.

但一些商品贏得中國(guó)消費(fèi)者的努力曾有過(guò)重大失敗，比如衛(wèi)生棉條和谷物餅干維多麥。

Companies like Apple and Starbucks have prospered in part by selling aspirational products to Chinese consumers who want to show the world that they have made it. That task is tougher for products that nobody sees.

蘋(píng)果和星巴克等公司能夠成功，部分原因在于向中國(guó)消費(fèi)者出售了能向世界彰顯他們的成功的產(chǎn)品，而這個(gè)任務(wù)對(duì)于人們看不到的產(chǎn)品來(lái)說(shuō)更加困難。

“It has to be something visible or something you can smell,” said Ye Tan, an independent economist in Shanghai. “Deodorant fails partly because it is invisible.”

“它必須是能看得見(jiàn)，或能聞得到的東西，”上海獨(dú)立經(jīng)濟(jì)學(xué)家葉檀說(shuō)，“香體露的失敗部分是因?yàn)槿藗兛床灰?jiàn)它。”

The products have their Chinese adherents. Cai Qianyi, a 38-year-old media professional in Beijing, started using deodorant in 2006, when he was studying in France. He doesn’t think he has body odor but sees a problem with sweat stains.

這些產(chǎn)品也有中國(guó)的追隨者。北京38歲的媒體人蔡謙一(音)從2006年開(kāi)始使用香體露，那時(shí)他正在法國(guó)學(xué)習(xí)，他覺(jué)得自己沒(méi)有體味，但認(rèn)為汗?jié)n是個(gè)問(wèn)題。

“Sweat leaving wet spots on your T-shirt in the summer is extremely ugly, especially around the armpits, which could be really socially embarrassing,” Mr. Cai said.

他說(shuō)：“夏天的時(shí)候出汗會(huì)在T恤上留下汗?jié)n，這樣非常難看，尤其是在腋下附近。從社交的角度來(lái)說(shuō)，這很尷尬。”

But most of his family and friends have no idea what deodorant is, he said. Once, a cousin mistook his deodorant stick for perfume and asked him why it was solid.

但他說(shuō)，大多數(shù)的家人和朋友并不知道什么是香體露，有一次，一個(gè)親戚誤把它當(dāng)成香水，還問(wèn)他為什么這是固體的。

When global deodorant makers began their foray into China, they highlighted the social embarrassment caused by perspiration. Their central message was a proven winner in the West: Sweating will get you shunned socially and ruin your chances for romance.

當(dāng)全球香體露廠商進(jìn)軍中國(guó)市場(chǎng)時(shí)，他們強(qiáng)調(diào)的是流汗給社會(huì)交往帶來(lái)的尷尬，這個(gè)核心信息在西方證實(shí)是有效的：出汗會(huì)讓你在社會(huì)交往中被人冷落，也會(huì)破壞情場(chǎng)上的機(jī)會(huì)。

That pitch fell on deaf ears in China, said Lucia Liu, a skin care assistant manager at Unilever who was involved in Rexona’s marketing between 2011 and 2016.

參與了2011年至2016年舒耐市場(chǎng)推廣的聯(lián)合利華護(hù)膚產(chǎn)品助理經(jīng)理露西亞•劉說(shuō)，這個(gè)宣傳方式在中國(guó)沒(méi)有產(chǎn)生效果。

“The traditional thinking here is that sweating is good because it helps people detox,” said Ms. Liu. “There is a marketing barrier that is really hard to overcome.”

她說(shuō)：“在中國(guó)的傳統(tǒng)觀念里，出汗是件好事，因?yàn)樗鼤?huì)幫助排毒，這個(gè)市場(chǎng)營(yíng)銷上的障礙很難克服。”

Indeed, Chinese health websites have long promoted the benefits of sweating, ranging from a boost in immunity to memory enhancement to skin rejuvenation. To many Chinese, perspiration is a natural part of metabolism that should not be blocked.

的確，中國(guó)的健康網(wǎng)站長(zhǎng)期以來(lái)一直在宣傳出汗的益處，從增強(qiáng)免疫力、提高記憶力到肌膚恢復(fù)活力。對(duì)于很多中國(guó)人而言，排汗是新陳代謝的自然組成部分，不應(yīng)該被阻礙。

There’s another reason few Chinese consumers buy deodorant: basic biology.

此外，購(gòu)買(mǎi)香體露的中國(guó)消費(fèi)者很少還因?yàn)椋夯镜纳硖匦浴?/p>

Scientists in recent years have shown that many East Asians, a group that includes China’s ethnic Han majority, have a gene that lowers the likelihood of a strong “human axillary odor” — scientist-speak for body stink.

科學(xué)家近年來(lái)已經(jīng)證明，很多東亞人攜帶的一種基因可以降低產(chǎn)生強(qiáng)烈“人體腋窩氣味”(體臭的科學(xué)說(shuō)法)的可能性，這個(gè)群體包括占中國(guó)大多數(shù)的漢族人口。

That lowers the likelihood that they will use deodorant to begin with, according to a 2013 study by researchers at the University of Bristol and Brunel University in Britain, after a survey of nearly 6,500 women of various backgrounds.

因此這從根本上減少了他們使用香體露的可能性。這項(xiàng)2013年的研究由英國(guó)布里斯托大學(xué)和布魯內(nèi)爾大學(xué)的研究人員聯(lián)合開(kāi)展，研究人員調(diào)查了近6500名來(lái)自不同背景的女性。

“It is likely that deodorant usage is not widely adopted because there is, for much of the East Asia population, no need for it,” it said.

研究結(jié)論稱：“香體露的使用可能不是非常普遍，這是因?yàn)閷?duì)很多東亞人而言，他們不需要。”

Unilever was not deterred. It deployed a range of traditional marketing tools, including signing top celebrities to appear in TV ads, in-store product sampling and sweat tests, and concert sponsorships.

聯(lián)合利華沒(méi)有因此卻步，它使用了一系列傳統(tǒng)市場(chǎng)推廣手法，包括聘請(qǐng)最紅的名人打電視廣告、店內(nèi)產(chǎn)品試用和排汗測(cè)試，以及贊助演唱會(huì)等。

Many of its efforts seem tone deaf in retrospect.

但該公司的許多努力似乎都沒(méi)有奏效。

A series of Rexona print ads portrayed a person’s armpits as potential threats to others. In one, a gunslinger — his armpit hovering over the scene in the foreground — appears to take down his opponent without touching his revolver. In a similar ad, a boxer appears to knock out his opponent with little more than his aroma.

一系列舒耐的平面廣告刻畫(huà)了一個(gè)人的腋窩成為他人的潛在威脅。在一則廣告中，一名持槍劫匪的腋窩在畫(huà)面前景搖晃，他似乎沒(méi)有使用手槍就制服了對(duì)手。在另一個(gè)類似廣告中，一名拳擊手只靠自己的體香就擊倒了對(duì)手。

Ng Tian It, a Singaporean creative director who oversaw the ad campaign, was proud of the look. But he said the ads appeared to be out of touch with many Chinese consumers unfamiliar with Old West shootouts, professional boxing and the prospect of offensive underarm smells.

主管這個(gè)廣告系列的新加坡創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)黃田一對(duì)視覺(jué)效果感到很滿意。但他說(shuō)，這些廣告似乎脫離了許多不熟悉美國(guó)西部槍?xiě)?zhàn)、職業(yè)拳擊和冒犯性腋臭的中國(guó)消費(fèi)者的生活。

“The series of advertisements we designed relied on the Western sense of humor,” he said. “Not many Chinese would understand this.”

“我們?cè)O(shè)計(jì)的這個(gè)系列的廣告是基于西方的幽默，”他說(shuō)，“很多中國(guó)人并不一定能明白。”

Deodorant sales in the United States reached $4.5 billion in 2016, according to Euromonitor, a market research firm. China’s total: $110 million. Deodorant also does not sell well in other East Asian markets: Japan’s sales that year were about one-tenth those of the United States.

據(jù)市場(chǎng)調(diào)研公司歐睿國(guó)際的數(shù)據(jù)，香體露2016年在美國(guó)的銷售額為45億美元(約合288億元人民幣)，而在中國(guó)的銷售額總共1.1億美元(約合7億元人民幣)，同時(shí)，香體露在其他東亞市場(chǎng)的銷售也表現(xiàn)不佳。日本2016年香體露的銷售總額大約是美國(guó)的十分之一。

Companies hoping to sell deodorant in China have had to appeal to other senses. Nivea, a brand owned by Beiersdorf A.G. of Germany, has tried to lure female Chinese consumers by rolling out deodorants with whitening functions.

希望在中國(guó)銷售香體露的公司不得不從其他感官上想辦法。德國(guó)拜爾斯道夫集團(tuán)旗下品牌妮維雅試圖在香體露中加入美白功效來(lái)吸引中國(guó)女性消費(fèi)者。

Simon Cao, Nivea’s China marketing director, said that the deodorant was popular but that “the room for growth is very limited.”

妮維雅中國(guó)區(qū)市場(chǎng)主管西蒙•曹說(shuō)，香體露很受歡迎，但“增長(zhǎng)空間非常有限”。

“We will not spend too much energy on deodorant, because the investment is not proportional to the return,” he said.

他說(shuō)：“我們不會(huì)在香體露上花太多精力，因?yàn)橥度牒突貓?bào)是不成比例的。”

The dearth of deodorants in China has forced some expatriates to hoard.

同時(shí)，香體露在中國(guó)的稀缺迫使一些外國(guó)人不得不囤貨。

Alex Stevens, a 26-year-old American former public relations professional who left Beijing last year after living there nearly a decade, said he loaded up on deodorant every time he was back in the United States.

26歲的美國(guó)人亞力克斯•史蒂芬斯是一名前公關(guān)從業(yè)者，在北京生活了近十年，直到去年離開(kāi)，他說(shuō)他每次回到美國(guó)都會(huì)大量購(gòu)入香體露。

“It’s really become the only thing I stock up on when I go back home,” he said, “and I don’t give any away to friends, not even for a price.”

“它已經(jīng)變成了我回家時(shí)唯一會(huì)囤的東西，”他說(shuō)，“而且我一個(gè)都不會(huì)送給朋友，就算他們花錢(qián)來(lái)買(mǎi)也不行。”