國(guó)家地理:沒(méi)有垃圾的世界可能存在嗎(8)

Clothes

服裝

The emblem of the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, a set of nested circles, was on Dame Ellen's teal hoodie when we met in her headquarters, an old sailmaker's loft on the Isle of Wight. In 2005, at age 28, MacArthur finished sailing around the world on a 75-foot trimaran in a record time of just over 71 days—alone. She had packed 72 days' worth of food. She had raced storms off Antarctica and fixed a broken generator. She arrived home, having survived a microcosm of Spaceship Earth, with a visceral awareness of limited resources.

我來(lái)到懷特島上一幢船帆廠老房子里的艾倫·麥克阿瑟基金會(huì)總部，與擁有英國(guó)勛爵頭銜的艾倫會(huì)面時(shí)，她的藍(lán)綠色連帽衫上就帶有該基金會(huì)的標(biāo)識(shí)--幾個(gè)嵌套的圓環(huán)。2005年，28歲的麥克阿瑟完成了獨(dú)自駕駛23米長(zhǎng)的雙體船進(jìn)行的環(huán)球航行，用時(shí)71天多一點(diǎn)，刷新了當(dāng)時(shí)的記錄。船上只裝了夠吃72天的食品。航程中，她曾在南極洲的近海與風(fēng)暴競(jìng)速，修好過(guò)損壞的發(fā)電機(jī)。經(jīng)歷過(guò)那次微型的環(huán)游地球之旅，她帶著對(duì)資源有限性的切身體會(huì)回到家中。

Why wasn't everyone talking about that? she wondered. She gave up competitive sailing and instead traded on her fame and access to corporate boardrooms -- "it would be a waste not to use it," she told me -- to establish an organization that has done more than any other to promote the circular economy, using a hierarchy of strategies. The best is the simplest: Waste less stuff by keeping it in use.

為什么當(dāng)時(shí)沒(méi)人談?wù)撨@個(gè)話題？她感到困惑。她放棄了競(jìng)技性帆航，利用自己的名氣和與企業(yè)董事會(huì)打交道的渠道--她對(duì)我說(shuō)“不利用就浪費(fèi)了”--建起一個(gè)組織，以多層級(jí)策略推廣循環(huán)經(jīng)濟(jì)，并成為這項(xiàng)事業(yè)的領(lǐng)頭羊。最好的方式也是最簡(jiǎn)單的：通過(guò)延長(zhǎng)使用期，降低物品浪費(fèi)量。

That choice hits many people most acutely in their closets. From 2000 to 2015, while the world population grew by a fifth, clothing production doubled, according to an Ellen MacArthur Foundation report, thanks to the explosion of "fast fashion." With so many cheap clothes, the report estimated, the average item was worn a third fewer times by 2015. That year, the world threw away more than $450 billion worth of clothes.

這一選擇對(duì)大多數(shù)人造成的最直接沖擊體現(xiàn)在他們的衣櫥里。根據(jù)艾倫·麥克阿瑟基金會(huì)的一份報(bào)告，從2000年到2015年，世界人口增長(zhǎng)了五分之一，但隨著“快消時(shí)尚”的爆發(fā)，服裝制造量翻了一倍。報(bào)告估計(jì)，由于存在如此多的廉價(jià)衣服，到2015年，每件衣服上身的機(jī)會(huì)減少了三分之一。今年，全世界丟棄的衣物價(jià)值逾4500億美元。