梅根的時尚力量：現(xiàn)代、冒險、重塑皇室形象

Royal watchers, fairy tale lovers and proponents of the “special relationship” between Britain and the United States, let out your collective breath: Prince Harry, fifth in line to the British throne, famous flirt, recent spokesman for mental health and all-around paparazzi magnet, and his girlfriend, the American actress Meghan Markle, are engaged. And the British royal family has officially entered the 21st century.

王室觀察人士、童話愛好者和英美兩國“特殊關(guān)系”的支持者們，一起松口氣吧：哈里王子(Prince Harry)，英國王位第五順位繼承人，著名調(diào)情人士，新科精神健康發(fā)言人，以及全方位狗仔隊磁鐵——和他的女朋友、美國演員梅根·馬克爾(Meghan Markle)訂婚了。英國王室正式進入二十一世紀。

If the marriage of Prince William and Catherine Middleton was a rare instance in which a commoner wed the heir to the throne, this royal wedding will herald the Windsors’ (relatively radical, if expected) embrace of a divorced and biracial American. And you know what that means!

如果說威廉王子(Prince William)和凱瑟琳·米德爾頓(Catherine Middleton)的婚姻是平民與王位繼承人結(jié)合的罕見事例，這一次的王室婚姻則宣告，溫莎王朝將(雖屬意料之中但仍然相當激進地)接受一個離過婚的雙種族美國人。你知道這意味著什么!

Not just that she will redeem the legacy of Wallis Simpson. But that she will become a symbol among symbols: one of the most-watched, obsessed-over women outside of Hollywood. And like so many of the women who marry into the royal family, she probably won’t be heard very much but will often be seen, so what she wears is suddenly going to matter, and be chronicled, a whole lot.

這不僅意味著她將為沃利斯·辛普森(Wallis Simpson)的傳奇實現(xiàn)救贖，而且將成為象征符號中的象征符號：好萊塢以外最受矚目、最令人迷戀的女性之一。和眾多嫁入王室的女人一樣，她的聲音很可能不會被人聽到，但她的形象往往會被人看到，所以她穿的衣服突然間就變得很重要，并被事無巨細地記錄下來。

The British fashion industry, on tenterhooks as it awaits the various outcomes of Britain’s exit from the European Union, must be rubbing its hands in anticipation. Oh, the clothes her patronage can potentially sell!

一直在如坐針氈地等待英國退出歐盟的各種后果的英國時裝業(yè)，如今一定在摩拳擦掌。噢，有她幫襯的衣服肯定有機會大賣!

It has already started.

一切已經(jīng)開始了。

The belted white coat that Ms. Markle wore for her official engagement appearance with Prince Harry outside Kensington Palace on Monday, by the Canadian brand Line the Label, set off a frenzy that was said to have crashed the website within an hour. (The brand is said to be renaming the coat “the Meghan.”)

馬克爾周一在肯辛頓宮外與哈里王子正式訂婚時穿著的系帶白色風衣是名叫Line the Label的加拿大品牌，該品牌頓時出現(xiàn)了銷售狂潮，據(jù)說它的網(wǎng)站在一個小時之內(nèi)就崩潰了。(該品牌據(jù)說要將這件風衣重新命名為“梅根”。)

And there is a blog — Meghan’s Mirror — that chronicles her every style choice. Vogue has a piece online titled “Meghan Markle’s Stealth Shopping Style Is All the Black Friday Inspo You Need,” while InStyle crowed “The Nordstrom Black Friday Sale Has Discounts on Meghan Markle’s Favorite Denim Brand.”

有一個博客名為“梅根的鏡子”(Meghan’s Mirror) ，專門記錄她所有的穿搭選擇。《Vogue》雜志在網(wǎng)上刊登了一篇評論，題為《梅根·馬克爾的秘密時尚購物就是你最需要的黑色星期五購物靈感》，而InStyle網(wǎng)站發(fā)表的文章題為《梅根·馬克爾最喜歡的牛仔品牌，Nordstrom黑色星期五促銷期間打折》。

If she does that for jeans, just imagine what she could do for, say, day dresses — like the forest green frock with a bow at the waist from Italian label P.A.R.O.S.H. she wore for her BBC post-engagement interview (for those who don’t know the brand, which is probably most people, the name stands for Paolo Rossello Second Hand, Paolo Rossello being the designer and second hand referring to the fact the line began by repurposing vintage garments). Along with whatever protocol lessons she is taking, she is going to have to decide what kind of style setter she wants to be.

如果她能帶動牛仔褲銷售，想象一下，她可以在多大程度上帶動日常服裝的銷售——比如她在就訂婚消息接受BBC采訪時，穿了意大利品牌PAROSH的一件腰系蝴蝶結(jié)的墨綠色連衣裙。(這里向大多數(shù)對時裝品牌不甚了解人介紹一下，這個名字代表的是“保羅·羅塞洛二手”[Paolo Rossello Second Hand]，保羅·羅塞洛是一位設(shè)計師，“二手”指的是該品牌專門翻新古董服飾)。隨著她繼續(xù)接受各種禮儀課程培訓，她必須決定自己將要采納什么樣的時尚風格。

Just consider the fact that not only does Catherine, the Duchess of Cambridge, tend to create an immediate buying frenzy for anything she wears, but so do her children: Prince George and Princess Charlotte. Consider that, with Theresa May in 10 Downing Street rightfully focusing attention on what she negotiates more than on the shoes she wears, there is no first lady equivalent à la Samantha Cameron, to boost the local fashion industry through appearances and strategic styling, thus upping the spotlight ante on the new-gen royals.

考慮一下這樣一個事實：劍橋公爵夫人凱瑟琳不管穿什么，都會馬上帶動購買狂潮;不僅這樣，她的孩子們，喬治王子(Prince George)和夏洛特公主(Princess Charlotte)也是如此。想想看，唐寧街10號的特麗莎·梅(Theresa May)正確地把注意力集中在談判，而不是腳下的鞋子上，現(xiàn)在英國沒有一位像薩曼莎·卡梅倫(Samantha Cameron)那樣的第一夫人，通過外貌和精心策劃的造型來促進本土時裝業(yè)，因此人們的注意力全部集中在新一代王室成員身上。

And consider that unlike Ms. Markle’s future sister-in-law, who has been adept at walking the very fine fashion line between classic and accessible with her patronage of brands from the high-end (Jenny Packham and Temperley London) to the high street (Zara, Topshop, Reiss), always with a sensible pump (often by L.K. Bennett) and de rigueur sheer stockings, Prince Harry’s bride will have a certain leeway. She can be more adventurous, less strictly appropriate.

再想一想，馬克爾與她未來的妯娌可不一樣。后者在經(jīng)典與平易近人的時尚之間信步游走，打造了自己優(yōu)美的時尚風格，她幫襯的既有Jenny Packham和Temperley London這樣的高端品牌，也有Zara、Topshop和Reiss這樣的高街品牌，她腳下總是穿著適宜的船型高跟鞋(常見的是L.K.Bennett)，以及合乎禮儀的薄絲襪。而哈里王子的新娘卻擁有一定的回旋余地，她可以更冒險，用不著那樣一絲不茍。

That is both because her husband is further from the responsibilities of the throne, and because the expectations surrounding them are different: their job, to a certain extent, is to push boundaries; to be even more relatable and modern than are Catherine and William.

這既是因為她的丈夫更遠離王位的責任，也是因為人們對他們的期望有所不同：從某種程度上講，他們的工作是打破界限，比凱瑟琳和威廉更讓人覺得可親、現(xiàn)代。

I mean: Ms. Markle did wear ripped jeans (ripped jeans!) to sit near her future husband at the Invictus Games in September in Toronto. It caused a hoo-ha, but as she began, so she may continue. Just imagine the big step forward she could take with bare legs. Certainly, the strappy Aquazzura stilettos she chose for her engagement debut were more daring than her sister-in-law’s trademark footwear.

我的意思是：在9月份多倫多舉行的“不可戰(zhàn)勝”運動會(Invictus Games)上，馬克爾穿著破洞牛仔褲(破洞牛仔褲!)坐在未來丈夫的身旁。這引起一片嘩然，不過既然她開了頭，以后她可能還會這樣做。想象一下，她哪怕只是露一下腿，就是多么大的一個進步。當然，她為自己訂婚后初次亮相所選的Aquazzura系帶細高跟鞋，比她妯娌的標志性鞋子更大膽。

Will she choose to champion certain British designers — perhaps, like Michelle Obama with American ones, the edgier and up-and-coming (Simone Rocha? J.W. Anderson?) — the better to promote them around the world and show her loyalty to her new country? Or will she underscore the values of cross-border relationships in the face of British isolationism, and work with some names from the United States? Those famous jeans were by the Los Angeles-based brand Mother, known for producing its denim in the U.S.A. Presumably, though she wore some Canadian brands while filming the television show “Suits” in Toronto, as she did on Monday with LINE, she won’t regularly continue, though it’s possible the fact she did not choose a U.K. designer for her engagement look is telling. Will she work with a single designer, or spread her favor?

她會選擇支持某些英國設(shè)計師嗎，比如像米歇爾·奧巴馬(Michelle Obama)支持美國設(shè)計師那樣，選擇更前衛(wèi)的新秀設(shè)計師(比如西蒙·羅恰[Simone Rocha]?J·W·安德森[J.W. Anderson]?)，在世界各地推廣他們，顯示她對自己新國家的忠誠?或者，面對英國的孤立主義，她會選擇強調(diào)跨境關(guān)系的價值，與美國的一些設(shè)計師合作?她穿的那些著名的牛仔褲出自洛杉磯品牌Mother，該品牌以在美國生產(chǎn)牛仔服裝聞名。雖然在多倫多拍攝電視劇《金裝律師》(Suits)時穿過一些加拿大品牌，比如她周一穿的就是加拿大品牌LINE，但她可能不會一直這樣。不過，她沒有選擇一位英國設(shè)計師來設(shè)計她在訂婚儀式上的造型，就能說明一些問題。她是會和某一個設(shè)計師合作，還是進行分散的選擇?

Burberry is about to name a new creative director (rumor has it that Phoebe Philo of Céline is the favorite). A new designer for a new royal, both fresh faces in heritage houses, would make for a very nice narrative. Or there’s Victoria Beckham, another barrier-breaker, who moved from frothy pop stardom to designer substance, and could be a kindred spirit when it comes to crafting an image.

博柏利(Burberry)即將任命一位新的創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)(據(jù)傳，Céline的菲比·菲洛[Phoebe Philo]是最熱門的人選)。一位新王室成員和一位新設(shè)計師，老牌時裝公司的兩張新面孔，這會是一段佳話。也可能是維多利亞·貝克漢姆(Victoria Beckham)，她是另一位突破界限的人，從浮華的流行巨星轉(zhuǎn)變?yōu)樵O(shè)計師，在塑造形象方面，她們也許會志趣相投。

We will see — perhaps the front rows of London Fashion Week in February, where Ms. Markle will unquestionably be the most-desired guest for any brand, will provide a clue. Still, the first real statement as to where this is all going will be the wedding dress. There is a lot riding on the choice.

讓我們拭目以待——也許明年2月倫敦時裝周的前排就能揭曉答案。馬克爾無疑會是所有品牌都渴望邀請到的貴賓。不過，關(guān)于未來走向的第一個真正的聲明將是婚紗。婚紗的選擇會有很多寓意。

When Catherine opted for a gown from Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen (one of the best-kept secrets of 2011), it spoke of her desire to support both a woman and a newish British brand, and it started an on-off partnership between the duchess and Ms. Burton that has continued to this day, and helped recast McQueen as more than just a high-fashion name known for intense creativity and a dark past. When her sister, Pippa Middleton, chose Giles Deacon as the designer of her wedding look in May, it likewise set off a frenzy of Deaconophilia.

凱瑟琳選擇的是薩拉·伯頓(Sarah Burton)設(shè)計的亞歷山大·麥昆(Alexander McQueen)婚紗(那是2011年保守得最好的一個秘密)，它表明，她希望支持一名女性和一個比較新的英國品牌。而后，這位公爵夫人和伯頓時常合作，一直持續(xù)到現(xiàn)在。這幫助重塑了麥昆的品牌，令它不再只是一個以強大創(chuàng)造力和黑暗過往聞名的高檔時裝人物。5月，她的妹妹皮帕·米德爾頓(Pippa Middleton)選擇賈爾斯·迪肯(Giles Deacon)作為她婚禮造型的設(shè)計師，同樣引發(fā)了一陣迪肯熱。

Both women opted for Grace Kelly-like, lace princess confections, marked by simplicity and an implicit reference to that famous wedding past, with all its cinematic romance.

兩位女士都選擇了格蕾絲·凱利(Grace Kelly)式的蕾絲公主風格，它既簡潔，又隱隱讓人想起過去那場著名的婚禮，以及它電影般的浪漫。

Ms. Markle has a chance to chart a new course via her dress, one that is perhaps a little more contemporary and a little less spun sugar. One that says to the millions who will be watching: This is the way I am redefining how it looks to be royal. Ms. Markle is someone who implicitly understands the power of dressing the part, so surely this opportunity has not escaped her.

馬克爾有機會通過自己的婚紗開辟一條新路線，可能更現(xiàn)代一點，不那么像棉花糖。她可以通過它對數(shù)百萬觀眾說：這就是我重新定義皇室形象的方式。馬克爾絕對了解給自己的角色著裝的力量，所以她一定看到了這個機會。

Here’s hoping she seizes it.

希望她能抓住。