喬爾:米切爾,我剛接觸沖浪一年的時間,我一直玩不好。我在想你是否能解釋一下初學者要如何學習沖浪。
Mitchell: Well, that's a tough question because I was surfing ever since I was small so it came natural to me, surfing, but since I know I surf. The beginning is put your board in the sand, lay on your board on the sand, pretend that you are paddling and then push yourself up like a push-up and then stand. You repeat that over-and-over again and eventually you enter the water and you get a friend to hold the board for you and then you stand up in the water while your friend pushed the board to gain balance.
米切爾:這是一個很難回答的問題,因為我很小就開始沖浪了,所以對我來說這是很自然的事情,我有記憶以來就已經開始沖浪了。開始時你要把沖浪板放在沙子上,把你的沖浪板放在沙子上,像劃槳一樣,把自己推出去,接著站起來。要不停地重復這個動作,直到你進入水中,之后要有一個朋友幫你扶著沖浪板,朋友幫你保持沖浪板的平衡時,你就可以站在海上的沖浪板上了。
Joel: The part I had the hardest time with was when there were big waves, it was so hard to get out far enough so that you could actually catch a wave. What do you call it, "duck diving"?
喬爾:我覺得最難的是有大浪過來的時候,很難保持足夠趕上好浪的距離。你們稱之為什么,潛越嗎?
Mitchell: Duck diving, yeah, it's key to surfing. If you see a wave, the thing is that you have to see the wave before it comes. That's the secret, like where's it crashing and when it's crashing. We call it "crashing" when it's coming down. Duck diving, you put your knees on the board if it's a big wave...
米切爾:對,潛越,這對沖浪來說很關鍵。假設你看到了一個浪,關鍵是你必須要在海浪過來前看到它。這是秘訣,要清楚浪會在何時何地打到你。海浪襲來時我們稱之為“撞”。如果是一個大浪的話,那潛越時你要跪在沖浪板上……
Joel: Oh, you get on your knees.
喬爾:哦,要跪在沖浪板上。
Mitchell: You get on your hands and knees and you push the nose of the board down.
米切爾:用雙手和膝蓋撐住沖浪板,然后將沖浪板前端放低。
Joel: OK, push the front part down.
喬爾:好,把沖浪板前端放低。
Mitchell: Yeah, and at the same time, after you push it down, you also kick your hips, and push with your hips, like how you dive in water, like a dolphin.
米切爾:對,沖浪板放低的同時會碰到你的臀部,你要用臀部推進,就像潛水一樣,像海豚一樣。
Joel: OK, and then when the wave crashes over you, do you lay down on the board.
喬爾:好,那當浪要蓋過你的時候,你是躺在沖浪板上嗎?
Mitchell: You get back up. You pull your nose back up.
米切爾:要再起來。要把沖浪板前端再抬起來。
Joel: OK, you pull the front and back, back up, and that helps you to back under the wave. And what about when you're...
喬爾:好,把沖浪板前端抬起來,這有助于沖浪。那……
Mitchell: But the key is, you don't want to duck dive when the wave is crashing on you because you are already screwed.
米切爾:關鍵是,你在浪打到你的時候是不會想潛越的,因為你已經錯過了。
Joel: OK, you have to duck before the wave.
喬爾:好,要在浪來之前潛越。
Mitchell: Before the wave or when it's crashing on you, like we call it white water. A lot of times you duck dive in white water. White water is when the wave crashes. The water looks like it's all white like white cotton candy, so you duck dive underneath that.
米切爾:在浪來之前或者說在浪快打到你的時候,也就是我們所說的碎浪水花。有很多時候你是在浪花中潛越。浪花是海浪撞擊后產生的。那時的水看上去是純白色,就像棉花糖一樣,所以你要在浪花下面潛越。
Joel: And when you're catching a wave, how do you know when to stand up?
喬爾:在趕上好浪時,你怎么知道什么時候站起來合適?
Mitchell: Like when the wave, when you see the wave coming you start paddling to get with the wave and before the wave even starts curling, you're already getting ready to stand up. It the wave is already curling, and your standing up, it's too late.
米切爾:在你看到海浪過來時,你就要開始向海浪劃過去,在海浪翻卷以前你就要準備站立。海浪翻卷以后你再站起來就太晚了。
Joel: It's too late. OK. So you have to stand up...
喬爾:太晚了。所以站立的時機是……
Mitchell: Before it starts curling.
米切爾:在海浪開始翻卷以前。
Joel: I see. I see.
喬爾:我明白了。我知道了。
Mitchell: And going the direction where it's crashing.
米切爾:要隨著海浪沖浪。
Joel: Well, I'm going to have to go surfing with you sometime so I can have a private lesson.
喬爾:好,找個時間我要和你一起去沖浪,這樣我就能單獨上課了。