在法租界的林蔭路，探訪俗麗之外的上海

SHANGHAI — China has such a glut of malls these days that visitors to flashy cities like Shanghai may wonder whether any independent boutiques and handcrafted items survive. Take heart, shopping lovers, they do exist. Just venture way from the commercial (and, frankly, not very interesting) retail stores lining Nanjing Road and Xintiandi and explore the winding, tree-shaded streets of the former French Concession.

上海——眼下，中國(guó)的商場(chǎng)嚴(yán)重過(guò)剩，造訪上海之類(lèi)俗麗城市的人可能會(huì)懷疑，是否還存在任何獨(dú)立的精品店以及手工制作的物件。別灰心，購(gòu)物愛(ài)好者們，它們的確存在。只要你避開(kāi)南京路和新天地林立的商業(yè)化門(mén)店(坦率地說(shuō)，它們也不是十分有趣)，探訪原法租界蜿蜒的林蔭路。

For Chinese fashion, the concept shop Dong Liang has established itself as a go-to source in the city, for both cutting-edge style and thoughtful selection. Opened in a charming villa in 2011, the original boutique features 30 women’s designers at varying prices, such as Yang Li, a fixture on the Paris runways and in the pages of Vogue, and Angel Chen, whose bright red raincoat emblazoned with the Chinese character for “dragon” in red sequins (4,680 renminbi, or about $707) is a showstopper.

在上海，棟梁(Dong Liang)概念店因其前衛(wèi)的風(fēng)格和精心的選擇，而成為了一個(gè)入手中國(guó)時(shí)裝設(shè)計(jì)師作品的好去處。這家原創(chuàng)精品店于2011年在一棟迷人的別墅里揭幕，以不同的價(jià)格提供30位女性設(shè)計(jì)師的作品，比如李陽(yáng)(Yang Li)，她是巴黎秀場(chǎng)的常客，頻頻登上《時(shí)尚》(Vogue)雜志，再比如陳安琪(Angel Chen)，她設(shè)計(jì)的大紅色雨衣外套，飾有以紅色亮片連掇成的漢字“龍”(4860人民幣，約合707美元)，在秀場(chǎng)上贏得了大量喝彩和掌聲。

Around the corner is Dong Liang’s men’s boutique, the Crow House, in another beautifully renovated old lane house, which has a rotating selection of pieces by 20 designers, including hand-dyed indigo button-down shirts and sports jackets (1,299 renminbi) by a co-founder, Nan Lang, and Feng Chen Wang’s graphic, 3-D-inspired sweatshirts (3,980 renminbi).

不遠(yuǎn)處是棟梁的男裝精品店烏鴉之家(Crow House)，它位于另一棟翻修得很精美的老房子里，輪流展示由20位設(shè)計(jì)師設(shè)計(jì)的精品服飾，其中包括出自棟梁聯(lián)合創(chuàng)始人南朗(Nan Lang)之手的手工染色靛藍(lán)紐扣領(lǐng)襯衫和運(yùn)動(dòng)夾克(1299人民幣)，以及出自王逢陳(Feng Chen Wang)之手的3D立體圖案運(yùn)動(dòng)衫。

Tucked down a winding lane across the street is fabric of a more traditional sort — indigo cloth hand-printed with intricate floral designs known as blue nankeen. Though fashion-forward Chinese youths now consider the textiles somewhat outdated, the Chinese Printed Blue Nankeen Exhibition Hall (637 Changle Road, No. 24) aims to keep this craftsmanship alive by stocking a huge array of pieces made by artisans in rural Anhui Province, including cotton and silk scarves (from 195 renminbi), tablecloths (from 435 renminbi) and women’s blouses with Chinese embroidery (695 renminbi). At times, the cloth is artfully displayed in the tranquil yard behind the shop, billowing in the breeze.

更具傳統(tǒng)色彩的東西隱身于街對(duì)面一條蜿蜒的小巷中。在靛藍(lán)色布料上以手工印制錯(cuò)綜復(fù)雜的花卉圖案，名為藍(lán)印花布。一些位于時(shí)尚前沿的中國(guó)年輕人現(xiàn)在或許認(rèn)為這種布料有些過(guò)時(shí)，但為了讓這門(mén)手藝存續(xù)下去，中國(guó)藍(lán)印花布館(長(zhǎng)樂(lè)路637弄24號(hào))的貨品中包含了大量由安徽鄉(xiāng)間的手藝人制作的織物，包括棉巾及絲巾(195人民幣起)、桌布(435人民幣起)和帶有中式刺繡的女式襯衫(695人民幣)。有時(shí)候，這種布料會(huì)在藍(lán)印花布館靜謐的后院里以巧妙的方式展出，在微風(fēng)中輕輕飄蕩。

For the Dutch designer Pim Gietelink, meanwhile, wood is the material of choice. And his nearly two-year-old boutique, Kate Wood Originals, named for his daughter, is full of the stuff. With a focus on sustainability and quality design, the shop specializes in watches made from rosewood, maple and sandalwood from North America and Southeast Asia (from 888 renminbi), as well as sunglasses (788 renminbi) and bicycles (7,500 renminbi) built from locally sourced bamboo. The shop will box the bicycles for air travel as an oversize piece of luggage.

與此同時(shí)，對(duì)荷蘭設(shè)計(jì)師皮姆·吉特林克(Pim Gietelink)來(lái)說(shuō)，木頭是首選材料。其成立近兩年的精品店Kate Wood Originals，是以他女兒的名字命名的，里邊滿(mǎn)是木制品。這家注重可持續(xù)性和高水準(zhǔn)設(shè)計(jì)的店鋪，專(zhuān)門(mén)經(jīng)營(yíng)以源自北美和東南亞的紅木、楓木、檀香木制成的手表(888人民幣起)，還有太陽(yáng)鏡(788人民幣)，以及用產(chǎn)自當(dāng)?shù)氐闹褡又瞥傻淖孕熊?chē)(7500人民幣)。這家店可以把自行車(chē)打包成超大尺寸的空運(yùn)行李。

For a refueling spot on rapidly gentrifying Wulumuqi Road, the choices can be dizzying — including poke bowls, banh mi and Turkish kebabs. The tastiest spot, however, is Slurp! (247-3 Wulumuqi Road), which serves authentic (not to mention super cheap) comfort foods from southwestern Yunnan Province on the border with Myanmar, such as highly slurp-able noodles topped with tofu, bean sprouts and pickled vegetables and irresistible pan-fried Yunnan goat cheese.

要在迅速中產(chǎn)化的烏魯木齊路上找個(gè)地方補(bǔ)充能量，面前的選擇可能令你眼花繚亂——其中包括波奇飯(poke bowls)、越式法包(banh mi)和土耳其烤肉。不過(guò)，食物最美味的地方非Slurp!(烏魯木齊中路247-3號(hào))莫屬，它供應(yīng)正宗(更別提還超級(jí)便宜)的來(lái)自云南省和緬甸交界處的舒心美食，比如可以呼嚕嚕吸溜進(jìn)嘴里的面條——上邊加了豆腐、豆芽、腌菜——還有格外誘人的油煎云南山羊奶酪。

The final shopping stop is the granddaddy of high-design, handmade pieces, Spin Ceramics. Just north of the former French Concession in the Jing’an district, Spin’s studio overflows with gorgeous and creative pieces of porcelain: paperweights in the shape of dim sum (90 renminbi), “water bag” vases that appear to be melting off their wooden stands (280 renminbi) and wearable red and black ceramic bow ties (220 to 240 renminbi). The 15-year-old company has a highly successful business model: It pairs young designers in Shanghai with master craftsmen in Jingdezhen (the birthplace of Chinese pottery) to produce unique and modern, well, spins on traditional porcelain.

購(gòu)物的最后一站是旋陶瓷(Spin Ceramics)，一家供應(yīng)高設(shè)計(jì)手工物件的老牌店鋪，就在靜安區(qū)原法租界以北。這家陶瓷店里擺滿(mǎn)了富有創(chuàng)意的精美瓷器：點(diǎn)心形狀的鎮(zhèn)紙(90元人民幣，看上去似乎正在木制底座上融化開(kāi)去的“水袋”花瓶(280人民幣)，以及可佩戴的紅色和黑色陶瓷蝴蝶領(lǐng)結(jié)(220至240人民幣)。這家成立15年的公司，有一種非常成功的商業(yè)模式：它把上海的年輕設(shè)計(jì)師和中國(guó)陶瓷之都景德鎮(zhèn)的大師級(jí)匠人配對(duì)，制作獨(dú)一無(wú)二的現(xiàn)代與傳統(tǒng)相結(jié)合的瓷器。