什么是快時(shí)尚——為什么它是個(gè)問題?

什么是快時(shí)尚——為什么它是個(gè)問題?

Fast fashion describes cheap, stylish, mass-produced clothes that have a huge impact on the environment. These garments appeal to shoppers because they are affordable and trendy. But because they aren’t built to last and quickly go out of style, these clothes are quickly discarded, piling up in landfills.

“快時(shí)尚”指的是對(duì)環(huán)境產(chǎn)生巨大影響的廉價(jià)、時(shí)尚、大批量生產(chǎn)的服裝。這些服裝吸引購物者，因?yàn)樗麄冐?fù)擔(dān)得起和時(shí)尚。但是，因?yàn)樗鼈儾荒陀?，不容易過時(shí)，這些衣服很快就被丟棄，堆在垃圾填埋場(chǎng)。

In addition to environmental issues, fast fashion garments spark a lot of ethical concerns. They are often made in sweatshops where workers are employed for long hours in unsafe conditions.

除了環(huán)境問題，快時(shí)尚服裝還引發(fā)了許多倫理問題。它們通常是在血汗工廠制造的，那里的工人在不安全的條件下工作很長(zhǎng)時(shí)間。

The average American purchases about 70 pieces of clothing per year.Andrei Stanescu / Getty Images

The Definition of Fast Fashion

快時(shí)尚的定義

In 1960, the average American adult bought fewer than 25 items of clothing each year. The average American household spent more than 10 percent of its income on clothing and shoes. And, about 95% of clothes sold in the U.S. were made in the U.S.

1960年，美國(guó)成年人平均每年買不到25件衣服。美國(guó)家庭平均花費(fèi)收入的10%以上在服裝和鞋子上。在美國(guó)銷售的服裝中，大約95%是在美國(guó)制造的。

But things began to change in the ‘70s. Massive factories and textile mills opened in China and other countries throughout Asia and Latin America. With the promise of cheap labor and material, they could mass-produce inexpensive garments quickly. By the ‘80s, a few big American retail stores began outsourcing production.

但到了70年代，情況開始發(fā)生變化。大量的工廠和紡織廠在中國(guó)以及亞洲和拉丁美洲的其他國(guó)家開業(yè)。有了廉價(jià)的勞動(dòng)力和材料，他們可以迅速大量生產(chǎn)廉價(jià)的服裝。到了80年代，美國(guó)一些大型零售商店開始外包生產(chǎn)。

The Problems With Fast Fashion

快時(shí)尚帶來的問題

Although consumers might enjoy having inexpensive and stylish clothes, fast fashion has been criticized for its environmental and ethical impact.

雖然消費(fèi)者可能喜歡便宜時(shí)髦的衣服，但快時(shí)尚一直因其對(duì)環(huán)境和道德的影響而受到批評(píng)。

Textile Waste

紡織廢料

The average American throws away about 70 pounds of clothing and textiles each year. Srdjanns74 / Getty Images

We’re more likely to throw away cheap, trendy clothes than more expensive, timeless pieces. According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), 16.91 million tons of textile waste were generated in 2017, of which only 2.6 million tons were recycled.

我們更有可能扔掉便宜時(shí)髦的衣服，而不是昂貴的、永恒的衣服。根據(jù)美國(guó)環(huán)境保護(hù)署(EPA)的數(shù)據(jù)，2017年產(chǎn)生了1691萬噸紡織廢料，其中只有260萬噸被回收利用。

CO2 Emissions

二氧化碳排放

Besides the sheer bulk of waste in landfills, fast fashion has an impact on the environment through carbon emissions. The fashion industry is responsible for 10% of global CO2 emissions each year, according to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation. That’s more than all international flights and maritime shipping combined. Researchers project that if things don’t change, by 2050 the fashion industry will use up a quarter of the world’s carbon budget.

除了垃圾填埋場(chǎng)的大量垃圾，快時(shí)尚還通過碳排放對(duì)環(huán)境產(chǎn)生影響。據(jù)艾倫·麥克阿瑟基金會(huì)稱，時(shí)尚業(yè)每年的二氧化碳排放量占全球總量的10%。這比所有國(guó)際航班和海運(yùn)加起來還要多。研究人員預(yù)測(cè)，如果情況不改變，到2050年，時(shí)裝業(yè)將消耗世界碳預(yù)算的四分之一。

Water Pollution

水污染

In addition to CO2 pollution, these clothing items can contribute to marine pollution. Clothes made out of synthetic fabrics can contain microplastics. When they are washed or if they are sitting in a landfill and are subject to rains, these tiny shreds of plastic are flushed into wastewater systems and eventually make their way out into the ocean.

除了二氧化碳污染，這些衣物還會(huì)造成海洋污染。合成纖維制成的衣服可能含有微塑料。當(dāng)它們被洗掉，或者被埋在垃圾填埋場(chǎng)，受到雨水的侵蝕時(shí)，這些微小的塑料碎片會(huì)被沖進(jìn)廢水系統(tǒng)，最終進(jìn)入海洋。

Unsafe Labor Conditions

不安全的勞動(dòng)條件

In order to mass produce so many inexpensive garments so quickly, items often aren’t ethically made. Factories are often sweatshops where laborers work in unsafe conditions for low wages and long hours. In many cases, children are employed and basic human rights are violated, reports EcoWatch.

為了快速批量生產(chǎn)這么多便宜的衣服，這些衣服的生產(chǎn)往往有違道德。工廠往往是血汗工廠，勞動(dòng)者在不安全的條件下工作，工資低，工作時(shí)間長(zhǎng)。據(jù)EcoWatch報(bào)道，在許多情況下，兒童被雇傭，基本人權(quán)受到侵犯。

Alternatives to Fast Fashion

快時(shí)尚的替代品

The aptly named alternative to fast fashion is slow fashion.

快時(shí)尚的另一種選擇是慢時(shí)尚。

Coined by eco textiles consultant and author Kate Fletcher, the phrase is about buying ethical, sustainable, quality garments.

這個(gè)說法是由環(huán)保紡織品顧問和作家凱特·弗萊徹提出的，指的是購買合乎道德、可持續(xù)、高質(zhì)量的服裝。

“Slow fashion is a glimpse of a different – and more sustainable – future for the textile and clothing sector and an opportunity for business to be done in a way that respects workers, environment and consumers in equal measure,” Fletcher writes. “Such a future is but a garment away.”

弗萊徹寫道:“慢時(shí)尚是紡織業(yè)和服裝業(yè)一個(gè)不同的、更可持續(xù)的未來的一瞥，也是一個(gè)以平等尊重工人、環(huán)境和消費(fèi)者的方式開展業(yè)務(wù)的機(jī)會(huì)。這樣的未來近在咫尺。”

Repairing and Donating

修補(bǔ)和捐贈(zèng)

There are more steps you can take to make sure the clothes you have last longer or don’t end up in a landfill.

你可以采取更多的步驟來確保你的衣服穿得更久，或者不會(huì)被扔進(jìn)垃圾填埋場(chǎng)。

Wash clothes only as necessary, then use a gentle detergent, to extend their life.

只有在必要時(shí)才洗衣服，然后使用溫和的洗滌劑，以延長(zhǎng)它們的壽命。

Repair rips, broken zippers, and lost buttons instead of tossing damaged items.

修補(bǔ)破損的拉鏈和丟失的紐扣，而不是扔掉損壞的物品。

Donate what you no longer wear. Use this location finder from the Council for Textile Recycling to find a donation/recycling center near you.

捐出你不再穿的衣服。利用這個(gè)紡織物回收委員會(huì)的定位器可以找到你附近的捐贈(zèng)/回收中心。

Have a clothing exchange with friends.

和朋友交換衣服。