在中國(guó)東北，5千日本人的墓園牽動(dòng)歷史的新仇舊恨

FANGZHENG, China — At the end of a narrow road in Fangzheng, a remote town in northeastern China, next to a hushed forest of birch and pine trees, stands the locked iron gate of the Sino-Japanese Friendship Garden.

中國(guó)方正縣——在中國(guó)東北偏遠(yuǎn)縣城方正的一條狹窄道路的盡頭，一片白樺和松樹(shù)林旁，中日友好園林的鐵門(mén)鎖閉著。

But inside is no garden. Instead, there are graves of some 5,000 Japanese who died in what was then known as Manchuria when the Japanese Empire collapsed in defeat at the end of World War II, and victorious Soviet armies swept in.

里面并不是園林，而是約五千名日本人的墓地。二戰(zhàn)結(jié)束時(shí)，日本帝國(guó)戰(zhàn)敗崩潰，獲勝的蘇聯(lián)軍隊(duì)涌入當(dāng)時(shí)的滿(mǎn)洲國(guó)，這些人就是那時(shí)候死去的。

The Friendship Garden was built as a memorial to this tragic period of history, and became a symbol of the unusually close ties that have bound Fangzheng to Japan since the war.

中日友好園林是為了紀(jì)念那段歷史悲劇而修建的，象征著戰(zhàn)后方正與日本不同尋常的緊密關(guān)系。

The town was once so proud of its connections to Japan that it erected Japanese-language shop signs, and sent a fifth of its population to live and work in Japan. But when rivalries between Japan and China flared, people in Fangzheng found themselves branded as traitors.

這個(gè)縣城曾以自己與日本的這種聯(lián)系為傲，它豎起了日語(yǔ)的商店招牌，有五分之一的人口在日本生活和工作。但是，當(dāng)日本和中國(guó)的敵對(duì)情緒加劇時(shí)，方正人發(fā)現(xiàn)自己被打上了叛徒的標(biāo)簽。

In 2011, the garden was closed after angry anti-Japanese nationalists splashed it with red paint.

2011年被憤怒的反日民族主義者潑灑紅色油漆后，這座園林被關(guān)閉。

Now, though, the town’s people are watching with wary hope as ties seem to have warmed again in recent months between China and Japan, driven together by a defusing of tensions on the Korean Peninsula, and the shared threat of a trade war with the United States.

不過(guò)現(xiàn)在，這里的人在懷著謹(jǐn)慎的希望觀(guān)察事態(tài)發(fā)展。近幾個(gè)月來(lái)，中日關(guān)系似乎再次升溫，主要是因?yàn)槌r半島的緊張局勢(shì)在緩和，而且兩國(guó)都面臨著與美國(guó)發(fā)生貿(mào)易戰(zhàn)的威脅。

These days the garden is guarded by an older couple who live in a small house next to the gate, and stop the rare visitor from entering without permission from the town government.

現(xiàn)在，這座園林由一對(duì)老年夫婦看守，他們住在大門(mén)旁邊的一個(gè)小房子里，阻止偶然出現(xiàn)訪(fǎng)客入內(nèi)。要入園參觀(guān)需得到縣政府的批準(zhǔn)。

The town, like its cemetery, has found itself caught up in the complex and tortured history that still divides Asia’s two economic giants.

這個(gè)縣城和公墓一樣，被困在復(fù)雜而痛苦的歷史之中。直到現(xiàn)在，這兩個(gè)亞洲經(jīng)濟(jì)巨人的關(guān)系依然因?yàn)檫@段歷史而有著深深的裂痕。

Fangzheng’s bonds to Japan go back to the 1930s, when this region of China, now known as Heilongjiang Province, was part of a Japanese-created puppet state in Manchuria. In its efforts to control this de facto colony, Japan sent over some 380,000 settlers, mostly impoverished farmers.

方正與日本的聯(lián)系可以追溯到上世紀(jì)30年代，當(dāng)時(shí)中國(guó)的這個(gè)地區(qū)——現(xiàn)在被稱(chēng)為黑龍江省——受日本建立的滿(mǎn)洲傀儡政府管轄。為了控制這個(gè)事實(shí)上的殖民地，日本派來(lái)了約38萬(wàn)移民，其中大多是貧窮的農(nóng)民。

When the Japanese surrendered in 1945, about 10,000 of these colonists were trapped in Fangzheng by the advancing Soviets. Cut off from escape, thousands died from cold, sickness and starvation, as well as group suicide.

1945年日本投降時(shí)，約有一萬(wàn)名殖民者被不斷前進(jìn)的蘇聯(lián)軍隊(duì)圍困在方正。成千上萬(wàn)人無(wú)路可逃，死于寒冷、疾病和饑餓，以及集體自殺。

Thousands of other Japanese stayed, many of them children who were given to Chinese families by desperate parents, or abandoned as orphans.

還有成千上萬(wàn)日本人留了下來(lái)，其中很多是被絕望的父母送給中國(guó)家庭的孩子，或者被遺棄的孤兒。

Their story was forgotten until 1963, when Zhou Enlai, China’s No. 2 leader under Mao, ordered the town to excavate the Japanese bones from the hills and forests around the town for cremation and burial. The ashes were interred at what later became the Friendship Garden.

他們的故事被遺忘了，直到1963年毛澤東時(shí)代的中國(guó)二號(hào)領(lǐng)導(dǎo)人周恩來(lái)下令，將日本人的遺骨從周?chē)男∩胶蜆?shù)林中挖出來(lái)火化和埋葬。骨灰被葬在這個(gè)后來(lái)被稱(chēng)為中日友好園林的地方。

When Japan became prosperous in the 1980s, it began repatriating its war orphans from northeastern China. They, in turn, helped their Chinese relatives and friends to move to Japan for work, study and marriage.

在80年代日本經(jīng)濟(jì)繁榮起來(lái)后，日本人開(kāi)始從中國(guó)東北地區(qū)接回戰(zhàn)爭(zhēng)遺孤。他們反過(guò)來(lái)幫助在中國(guó)的親戚和朋友去日本工作、求學(xué)和結(jié)婚。

According to the Fangzheng government website, 38,000 people from the town — one fifth of Fangzheng’s population — now live overseas, overwhelmingly in Japan.

據(jù)方正縣政府網(wǎng)站稱(chēng)，該縣3.8萬(wàn)人——占全縣人口的五分之一——生活在海外，絕大部分在日本。

In 1995, a repatriated former orphan built a monument in the cemetery to the Chinese parents who adopted Japanese children. Many of the former orphans, some of whom kept their Chinese names while others took Japanese names on returning, are now among the most frequent visitors to the Friendship Garden.

1995年，一名被接回日本的遺孤在公墓里為收養(yǎng)日本兒童的中國(guó)父母修建了一座紀(jì)念碑。這些遺孤中一些人沿用了自己的中文名字，還有一些人一回去就起了日語(yǔ)名字?，F(xiàn)在常來(lái)友好園林的有很多屬于這個(gè)群體。

“The Friendship Garden is a meaningful place,” said Gao Fengqin, 74, a former Japanese war orphan now living in Harbin, about 120 miles from Fangzheng. “The visits are not paid to the Japanese soldiers, but the Chinese parents who brought us up.”

“友好園林是個(gè)有意義的地方，”曾是戰(zhàn)爭(zhēng)遺孤的郜鳳琴說(shuō)。她今年74歲，住在離方正縣大約120英里(約合200公里)的哈爾濱。“我們?nèi)@林不是為了日本軍人，是為了紀(jì)念撫養(yǎng)我們成人的中國(guó)父母。”

The bonds are apparent in the billboards around town that advertise “consultancy centers” to help with everything from applying for visas to finding work and marriage partners in Japan.

在縣里隨處可見(jiàn)的廣告牌中，這種紐帶顯而易見(jiàn)。這些廣告牌上宣傳的“咨詢(xún)中心”可以提供方方面面的幫助，從申請(qǐng)簽證到在日本找工作和結(jié)婚對(duì)象。

Nearby, a high-end gated community is called the Overseas Chinese Village Homeland, a reference to the 48,000 residents and their families who have returned to this once poor rice-farming town after living in Japan.

附近是一個(gè)名為華僑村家園的高端封閉式小區(qū)。這里的華僑指的是曾在日本生活過(guò)一段時(shí)間的4.8萬(wàn)居民及其家人，他們后來(lái)又回到這個(gè)曾經(jīng)頗為貧窮的水稻種植縣生活。

“It’s glorious if someone’s daughter married to Japan,” said Chen Zhongbo, 45, a taxi driver in Fangzheng. “Japan is still considered richer, much more developed.”

“誰(shuí)們家女兒要是嫁到了日本，是挺光榮的事兒，”方正縣45歲的出租車(chē)司機(jī)陳中波說(shuō)。“大家還是覺(jué)得日本有錢(qián)、發(fā)達(dá)。”

In 2006, the town went a step further, declaring itself a “Hometown for Chinese Living in Japan” in order to attract more investment from there. As part of the rebranding, all shops in Fangzheng were required to have both the Chinese and Japanese languages on signs.

2006年，方正縣更進(jìn)一步，為了從日本吸引更多投資而宣稱(chēng)自己是“龍江第一僑鄉(xiāng)”。作為形象重塑工程的一部分，方正縣所有店鋪的牌匾都被要求做成中日雙語(yǔ)。

The troubles began not long after that, as economic and political competition between Tokyo and Beijing reignited old disputes over contested islands and Japanese efforts to whitewash wartime atrocities.

不久后，麻煩開(kāi)始了，在東京和北京之間的經(jīng)濟(jì)和政治競(jìng)爭(zhēng)中，圍繞有爭(zhēng)議島嶼和日本粉飾戰(zhàn)爭(zhēng)暴行的行為而起的舊有爭(zhēng)端被重新點(diǎn)燃。

Every time a Japanese politician visited the Yasukuni war shrine in Tokyo, or denied the 1937 Nanjing Massacre, when rampaging Japanese troops slaughtered civilians in that city, hatred welled up online.

每當(dāng)日本政治人物參拜東京的靖國(guó)神社，或否認(rèn)1937年日軍在南京屠殺平民的暴行，網(wǎng)上就會(huì)充斥著仇恨情緒。

This anger increasingly spilled over onto Fangzheng.

這種憤怒日漸涌入方正。

In 2011, Fangzheng provoked online outrage when it spent more than 700,000 yuan, or about $110,000, to build a memorial wall in the cemetery inscribed with the names of Japanese settlers who were believed to be buried there. Later that year, five young men climbed into the cemetery and splashed red paint on the wall.

2011年，方正縣花70多萬(wàn)元在公墓里建了一道紀(jì)念碑墻，上面刻著據(jù)信被葬在那里的日本移民的名字。此事激起了網(wǎng)民的憤怒。同年晚些時(shí)候，五名年輕男子翻墻進(jìn)入公墓，將紅色的油漆潑在了碑墻上。

The town government knocked it down during the night and buried the pieces in the graveyard.

縣政府連夜拆除了碑墻，并將殘?jiān)珨啾诼裨诹四沟乩铩?/p>

That did not end the criticism. Fangzheng came to be mocked as the “hometown of traitors.” At the entrance to an underground shopping center, a sign appeared saying “Japanese and dogs not allowed,” a reference to past humiliations of Chinese people by imperialist powers.

此舉并沒(méi)有止住批評(píng)的聲音。方正被嘲諷為“漢奸縣”。在一個(gè)地下購(gòu)物中心的入口處，一個(gè)牌子上赫然寫(xiě)著“日本人與狗不得入內(nèi)”。這句話(huà)是在指涉昔日帝國(guó)列強(qiáng)對(duì)中國(guó)民眾的羞辱。

Almost all the Japanese-language signs in the streets have since disappeared, and the town has removed the name of the cemetery from road signs.

自那以后，街頭幾乎所有日語(yǔ)牌匾都消失不見(jiàn)了，方正縣還去掉了路牌上的公墓名稱(chēng)。

“Without the business related to Japan, Fangzheng is nothing,” said Wang Dongjun, the owner of Huarui Language School, which teaches Japanese. “Fangzheng people are well-off. This is a miracle given that there aren’t many industries here. It’s obvious the wealth comes from Japan.”

“如果沒(méi)有和日本的關(guān)系，方正什么都不是，”教日語(yǔ)的華銳語(yǔ)言學(xué)校所有人王東軍說(shuō)。“方正人很富，但是方正這里真的沒(méi)什么企業(yè)，算是個(gè)奇跡了。挺明顯的，方正人富和日本有關(guān)。”

“When there are sensitive days, like the Nanjing Massacre Memorial Day, I sometimes close my training school to avoid trouble,” he said. “敏感的日子，比如南京大屠殺紀(jì)念日，我有時(shí)候就把培訓(xùn)學(xué)校關(guān)了，免得麻煩，”他說(shuō)。

Bowing to the pressure, the town released a plan in January to turn the cemetery into a “patriotism education base” by “adding more content to show Chinese people’s spirit of persistence and resistance against Japan’s aggression.”

迫于壓力，方正縣1月公布了通過(guò)“增加抗日內(nèi)容，展示方正人民自強(qiáng)不息、頑強(qiáng)抗?fàn)幍木?rdquo;，把公墓變成愛(ài)國(guó)主義教育基地的計(jì)劃。

“It’s torture for people like me who love both countries,” said Sumie Ikeda, a former war orphan who is now director of Association of Friendship of Repatriates from China. “Fangzheng could be a place for reminding people of the history to avoid same mistakes, not a resource for generating hatred.”

“對(duì)我們這樣既愛(ài)中國(guó)又愛(ài)日本的人來(lái)說(shuō)，看著這種紛爭(zhēng)就是一種受罪，”曾是戰(zhàn)爭(zhēng)遺孤、現(xiàn)在是中國(guó)歸國(guó)者日中友好之會(huì)理事長(zhǎng)的池田澄江(Sumie Ikeda)說(shuō)。“方正本該成為讓人們銘記歷史不犯同樣錯(cuò)誤的地方，而不是一個(gè)讓人產(chǎn)生仇恨的地方。”

Others just wish that the disputes would leave them alone.

還有一些人只是希望爭(zhēng)端不要殃及他們。

“As common Chinese people, we don’t care about politics,” said Yang Shuang, a 25-year-old woman who worked for three years in a film factory near Tokyo. “When we have the connection, why don’t we use it?”

“我們普通中國(guó)人不關(guān)心政治，”25歲的楊爽說(shuō)。她曾在東京附近的一家膠卷廠(chǎng)工作過(guò)三年。“我們有這層關(guān)系為什么不用?”