散文佳作108篇 第44期:神話世界九寨溝 Jiuzhaigou,China's Fairyland

Jiuzhaigou, China's Fairyland

蜀中山水，不知迷醉了多少古人和今人……

Sichuan Province in southwest China is renownedfor its many fascinatingnatural wonders which haveattraaed millions of travelers over the centuries.

近年來，在四川北部南坪縣境內(nèi)，閃現(xiàn)出一顆五光十色的風(fēng)光“寶石”，這就是人們贊不絕口的“神話世界”九寨溝。它鑲嵌在松潘、南坪、平武三縣接壤的群山之中，面積約6萬公頃，距成都約400公里。九寨溝，由樹正群海溝、則查洼溝、日則溝三條主溝組成，海拔平均在2，500米左右。過去，溝中有九個藏族村寨，因此得名。

The recent discovery of the scenic beauty of Jiuzhaigou (Nine-village Ravine)has added charmto the picturesque landscape. Known as "China's Fairyland", Jiuzhaigou is located in the hillsalong the borders of Nanping,Pingwu and Songpan counties, some 400 kilometers fromChengdu, the pro-vinaal capital. Three scenic areas-Shuzheng qunhaigou, Zechawagou andRizegou-combine to make up the 60,000 hectares of fairyland, which is nearly 2,500 metersabove sea level. Its name "Nine-village Ravine"is sup-posed to be because Tibetans onceinhabited nine villages in the ravine.

海狹長數(shù)里。水光浮翠，倒映林嵐。”九寨溝風(fēng)光之美，實際上百倍于這樣的描繪。就四川的名山秀水而論，總是有它們各自的獨特風(fēng)格和個性的。如峨嵋山的“秀”，青城山的“幽”，劍門關(guān)的“險”，夔門的“雄”。九寨溝的風(fēng)光，因它的內(nèi)涵豐富，很難以一字窮述，還須繼續(xù)探幽發(fā)微。說它宛若“神話世界”，恐怕也只是見重于外在的美吧。

Here is a brief record in "Green Lakes", a chapter in the Annals ofNanpingCounty: "InJiuzhaigou, lakes meander for miles, with wooded hills mir-rored in the clear water." The scene,actually, is much more beautiffil than can be put into words. Sichuan Prorrince is rich in scenicwonders, each with its own distinctive features—the elegance of Mount Emei, the serenityofMount Qingcheng,the sharp precipice of Jianmen Pass, and the grandeur of Kuimen. But todepict the diverse natural beauty of Jiuzhaigou in one or two words is not nearly enough. "Fairyland",however inadequate, is perhaps the only word to choose.

論山品水，古今時尚?；蛞栽?，或以畫，或以游記，或以攝影，運用各種不同的藝術(shù)手段，表現(xiàn)出山水風(fēng)光的風(fēng)格和個性。九寨溝風(fēng)光的風(fēng)格和個性，還在不斷探索和認識的過程中.這里，得感謝一位長居山中的藏族老人，他講述了九寨山水萊源的一則神話故事。他說在很古很古的時候，九寨溝萬山叢中，有個男神仙達戈，和美麗的女神仙沃諾色嫫自由戀愛，男神仙用風(fēng)云磨了一面鏡子，送給女神仙作梳妝打扮用;女神仙接鏡時失手，摔成108塊碎片，散落山中，變成了108個“翠海”。古老的傳說啟發(fā)了我們：九寨溝的奇美風(fēng)光，就在于它有這天然生成的108個“翠海”;從風(fēng)光的結(jié)構(gòu)上講，它是以水為主體的，這就有別于其他山水的特色了。

Intrigued by this fairyland, true lovers of nature have tried recording its uniquebeauty inpoems, paintings, photographs and travel notes. An old local Tibetan tells the story ofJiuzhaigou: "Once upon a time, there lived deep in the mountains an immortal named Dage anda fairy maiden named Wonuosemo. They fell in love. One day, Dage presented Wonuosemowith a bright mirror which he had polished with the wind and the clouds. Unfortunately, themirror slipped from the maiden's hand and broke into 108 pieces, each turning into a lake ofemerald green."It is no wonder why scenic Jiuzhaigou is so entertaining, with so manydistinctive "Green Lakes" reigning over the whole area.

祖國山水，風(fēng)格多樣;多樣的風(fēng)格，相對應(yīng)而存在，相比較而多姿。杭州西湖，水榭歌臺，人工賦予它典雅美。蜀中仙山峨嵋，飄浮于云濤霧海，呈秀色于煙雨浸漫的山林。譽滿中華的桂林山水，水秀山奇，山水平分秋色。九寨溝風(fēng)光，卻又是另一番景象了。在那里，古樹搖曳春秋，山花自謝自開，.植被茸茸生煙，海子和瀑布隨著季節(jié)的推移而變幻多姿;在那里，冰河時期遺留下來的星葉草、獨葉草、先花后葉的領(lǐng)春樹，以及熊貓、金絲猴、扭角羚、白馬雞、獐、鹿……組合成了奇異的“動植物王國”。據(jù)南坪縣對九寨風(fēng)光有獨到見解者講：“九寨溝的山水風(fēng)光，縱有萬麗千奇，一旦離開原始的自然美，就一切都沒有了。”他們的見解是精辟的。當你步人溝中，便可見樹正群海淡蕩生輝，瀑布舒灑碧玉。一到金秋，滿山楓葉降紅。盛夏，湖山幽翠。仲春，樹綠花艷……四時都呈現(xiàn)出它的天然原始，寧靜幽深。日則溝里的鏡湖、五花海，則查洼溝里的五彩池，雖繽紛艷麗，但令人迷醉的卻是絢麗的和諧景色。這種獨特的景觀，只有在這個自然保護區(qū)才能見到。因此說，天然原始是九寨溝風(fēng)光的個性和風(fēng)格，是比較得當?shù)摹?/p>

China is a land of scenic contrasts, each uniquely representing its own area: West Lake inHangzhou with enchanting pavilions set in quiet surroundings, Mount Emei in Sichuan withpeaks peeping through mist and clouds, Guilin in Guangxi with panoramic views of mountainsand rivers. And Jiuzhaigou presents another view. Aged trees wave the seasons by, amidcarpets of wild flowers and thick green vegetation. Sparkling lakes and waterfalls vary withevery season. Some rare trees and grasses, survivors of the glacial epoch,still thrive here inharmony with a host of creatures which make this ravine their home, for the land teems withsuch animals as giant pandas, golden monkeys, takins, white-eared pheasants, deer and riverdeer. All of this unfolds into a panorama of beautifully balanced fauna and flora. As observersfrom Nanping County have justly put it, "All the beauty of Jiuzhaigou is endowed by nature. Ifthe natural charm were removed, there would be no more of Jiuzhaigou."Mystic lakes andsparkling waterfalls captivate your eyes as you enter the ravine. The trees are their greenestin spring when intensified by colorful flowers. In summer, warm tints spread over the hills andlakelands. As summer merges into autumn, the maple trees turn fiery-red, splashing colorthrough the thickly forested hills. Tranquility pervades primitive Jiuzhaigou throughout theyear, particularly at places around Mirror Lake and Five-flower Lake at Rizegou, and Multi-coloredLake at Zechawagou, where a profusion of colors is brought into full harmony with nature.This singular spectacle can only be seen in Jiuzhaigou-a natural preserve.

當然，這并不排除九寨溝風(fēng)光的其他特點，它的風(fēng)景點集中，它的三條主溝，各具特色而又富多種魅力。一位經(jīng)驗豐富縱覽過世界風(fēng)光的國際旅游企業(yè)家，曾在九寨溝風(fēng)光最嫵媚的秋天做了一次短游，他說：“像九寨溝這樣美妙的景色，世界上是少有的。”他情不自禁地對陪同他的藏族副縣長說：“你真幸福啊!你是世界上最美麗的縣的縣長。”

九寨溝風(fēng)光，不愧是蜀中又一幅新的山水畫卷。

In addition to this natural beauty Jiuzhaigou, again, is noted for its three scenic areas whichare so concentrated in the region and yet so strikingly contrasted with each other thattourists cannot believe their eyes even when they see them. After visiting this fairyland inautumn, a tourist entrepreneur from abroad exclaimed, "Of all the scenic spots the world hasever produced, nothing compares with this." He then turned to his companion, the deputyhead of Nanping County, and said, "You are lucky to govern the most beautiful place in theworld."Scenic Jiuzhaigou is indeed one of nature's most extravagant splendors anywhere andthe crowning glory of Sichuan Province.