2014，一個(gè)折騰的時(shí)尚年

5. MEN’S WEAR EXPLODES; Y.A.-WEAR IMPLODES

5. 男裝勢(shì)頭大漲;青少年時(shí)裝崩潰

Long the neglected little brother of women’s wear, men’s wear has become the hottest, fastest-growing segment of the industry, with the London Collections: Men so successful that New York Fashion Week is considering its own version. Hood by Air was among the most-discussed brands of the year, receiving a special award as part of the LVMH Young Designer’s Prize, and Estée Lauder created its first stand-alone men’s skin-care group.

長(zhǎng)期以來(lái)，男裝是女裝被忽視的弟弟，但是現(xiàn)在它成了時(shí)裝業(yè)最熱門(mén)、增長(zhǎng)最快的分支。倫敦男裝周非常成功，所以紐約也在考慮舉辦自己的男裝周。 Hood by Air是今年最被熱議的品牌之一，獲得了路威酩軒年輕設(shè)計(jì)師獎(jiǎng)的一個(gè)特別獎(jiǎng)。雅詩(shī)蘭黛創(chuàng)立了自己的第一個(gè)獨(dú)立男士護(hù)膚部門(mén)。

Little wonder men reached new fashion icon status, with Pharrell Williams coming in at No. 5 over all — and the first man — on Google’s most searched red carpet list of 2014 thanks to his continued allegiance to the oversize Vivienne Westwood hat look, and his short-suited statement at the Oscars. For the more traditionally minded, Neil Patrick Harris followed up his award-winning Broadway stint as a cross-dresser in “Hedwig and the Angry Inch” with a contract as the face (and body) of London Fog, and a job as the host of the 2015 Academy Awards. Expect sauve-oir faire on the red carpet.

難怪男性時(shí)尚偶像地位也提高了，法瑞爾·威廉姆斯(Pharrell Williams)是2014年谷歌上搜索排名第五的紅毯人物，也是第一位上榜的男士，這是因?yàn)樗姁?ài)薇薇安·韋斯特伍德(Vivienne Westwood)超大號(hào)帽子，在奧斯卡頒獎(jiǎng)禮上身穿短褲西服套裝。比較傳統(tǒng)的人請(qǐng)看看尼爾·帕特里克·哈里斯(Neil Patrick Harris)，他憑借在百老匯音樂(lè)劇《搖滾芭比》(Hedwig and the Angry Inch)中飾演的變裝者獲得大獎(jiǎng)，之后簽約成為倫敦霧(London Fog)的代言人，并將擔(dān)任2015年奧斯卡頒獎(jiǎng)禮的主持人。

Not that there were no missteps in the section (with more attention comes more opportunity for error), chief among them President Obama’s choice of a tan suit during a White House news conference in August. Until Kim Kardashian took off all her clothes for Paper magazine and oiled up, the outcry came close to breaking the Internet. Proof positive, if there was any doubt, that these days, what men wear matters.

不過(guò)，這一領(lǐng)域并非沒(méi)有敗筆(人們?cè)疥P(guān)注，就越可能犯錯(cuò))，其中最引人注目的是8月份奧巴馬總統(tǒng)在白宮的一次新聞發(fā)布會(huì)上身穿淺色西服，在網(wǎng)上引起強(qiáng)烈批評(píng)，直到金姆·卡戴珊(Kim Kardashian)為《Paper》雜志脫光衣服、渾身涂油轉(zhuǎn)移了人們的視線。毫無(wú)疑問(wèn)，如今(過(guò)去可能也是這樣)，男士著裝也是大事。